wont start sometimes help!

[glenn123]

I need to get to work tomorrow and just recently my 89 2.9 4x4 ranger started to have trouble starting. it started out slow, it just would take a few times of turning the key on and off then it would start. but now it wont start at all. No lights come on the dash when i have the key half turned. i mean it wont even try to crank i just turn the key and nothing. im thinking maybe the solenoid or maybe the distributor i have no clue im pretty sure its not the battery but im about to go check.

 

[Duane867]

More then likely the ignition tumbler, or the switch.

 

[BlueSplash]

Check the starter solenoid +12V at the starter itself. Usually, the connector gets corroded, the solenoid will not engage the starter motor

 

[cody93]

if your key is in "RUN" you should have working accesories like fan/radio, if not, its probly the switch since you say it would only work after a few turns..

 

[fordforlife]

It definitely sounds like the ignition switch or the key. but most likely the switch. The ignition switch is mounted to the steering column. and is what tells the vehicle that you are trying to start the truck. check all fusible links as well its possible that the switch is not getting power.

 

[glenn123]

Thanks for all the help! it was alot of help! but i found out that im a dummy. it was a bad battery. i should have checked it first but it was a freshly charged battery like a week ago so i guess it is just a bad battery. i changed it and now it cranks every time. my bad guys.

 

[cody93]

lol, glad you got it working!

 

[Duane867]

Happens to the best of us.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You need to check the charging system so you dont burn up another battery possibly. For the load/noload test you need a meter and with the key off check the battery voltage lets say it is 12.8 volts. start the engine and let it stabilize for a min or two and check the voltage at around 1500 rpm you dont want it 2.5 volts over battery voltage or over 15.3 volts that is the no load test. Then turn the lights and heater on high and at around 2000 rpm check the voltage you dont want less than .5 volts over battery voltage or less than 13.3 volts. If it fails either of those tests you need to further diagnose it. Just for giggles clean all the grounds , batt to chassis, batt to engine, engine to chassis. Pull them apart and sand them metal to metal fully charge the battery then do the load/no load tests. Whenever you mess with the charging system you must confirm it is operating properly any one part can destroy the other two pretty quick battery alternator and voltage reg. Confirm it is good or it can get spendy pretty quick. Also a bad starter can overwork the charging system especially with alot of short trips. Charging a drained battery with the engine is not recommended only in emergencies. If the lights flash at night when you give it gas you need to figure out why. GL

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/chargingsystem.htm

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Winter is coming up quick you may want to look into new battery cables now also to go with the new battery. If you dont know how old the cables are you can assume they are old.

 

[noahkenny]

You need to check the charging system so you dont burn up another battery possibly. For the load/noload test you need a meter and with the key off check the battery voltage lets say it is 12.8 volts. start the engine and let it stabilize for a min or two and check the voltage at around 1500 rpm you dont want it 2.5 volts over battery voltage or over 15.3 volts that is the no load test. Then turn the lights and heater on high and at around 2000 rpm check the voltage you dont want less than .5 volts over battery voltage or less than 13.3 volts. If it fails either of those tests you need to further diagnose it. Just for giggles clean all the grounds , batt to chassis, batt to engine, engine to chassis. Pull them apart and sand them metal to metal fully charge the battery then do the load/no load tests. Whenever you mess with the charging system you must confirm it is operating properly any one part can destroy the other two pretty quick battery alternator and voltage reg. Confirm it is good or it can get spendy pretty quick. Also a bad starter can overwork the charging system especially with alot of short trips. Charging a drained battery with the engine is not recommended only in emergencies. If the lights flash at night when you give it gas you need to figure out why. GL

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/chargingsystem.htm

That some good trouble shooting info. What most people dont know is that the battery is there for starting the vehicle. The alternator is there to supply power to everything when it is running. There should be no power being pulled from the battery while the engine is running if the electricial system is in good working order. Alternators generally stay between 13.8v and 14.4v if they are operating correctly,give or take a half a volt. You should never see anything below 13v while the engine is running, nor you should see anything above about 15.5v. Any higher and you will boil a battery dry.
To properly test a battery it should be fully charged. Then with a load tester load it for about 10 seconds and let it recover for about 30 seconds. This removes what is called the surface charge. Then load it again and the 2nd reading will be the correct one. I like carbon pile testers and heating element type testers personally. I just like seeing them get hot, then I know its loading the battery. Dont care much for the new electronic ones. We have them at work and I just dont trust them yet.