Wobbly Rear Pinion...help!

[77'cj7]

AFAIK - As Far As I Know

 

[TuxRanger]

Going to dealership buying a crush sleeve and a seal for $30.00 *choke choke**

 

[TuxRanger]

Ok...So I called the dealership and found some information out and put it together, my torque wrench only goes to 140lbs, so I put the new crush sleeve in and the seal and I think i have it to tight now when I coast around a turn my truck hums like a jet........

 

[Evan]

Ok...So I called the dealership and found some information out and put it together, my torque wrench only goes to 140lbs, so I put the new crush sleeve in and the seal and I think i have it to tight now when I coast around a turn my truck hums like a jet........

You need to do a lot of reading or find someone who knows what they're doing.

You are installing a new crush sleeve, so there is no torque spec on the pinion nut itself. You don't need your ft. lb. torque wrench. You need an inch lb. wrench to turn the input and measure the bearing preload as you tighten down the pinion nut and crush the sleeve. You need to do this while the carrier is out of the diff. You need to find a way to hold the input flange so it won't turn as you apply the brute force required to crush the sleeve.

As you turn, frequently check the pinion for play, once the play is gone, make only small turns in fractions of an inch, checking the preload with the in. lb wrench each turn. When the wrench clicks at say 23 in. lb. (double-check my spec there) you're done.

When you look up the spec for preload, there is a different spec for old and new bearings.

It sounds to me like you're in over your head on this. I recommend you find someone who is an expert on differentials and have them help. You'll be glad you did.

 

[MAKG]

I have to second this. You're trying to save $100 or so in shop charges by eating up a good set of gears. Floppy pinions WRECK gearsets. And with the howling around corners it doesn't sound like your differential is in the best shape either.

You're going to make a $100 repair into an $800 repair.

 

[bottledgt]

You are wrong here.

There is a torque spec on that nut. It should be in the range of 160-200 ft. lbs. The preload on the bearing should already be set. The only way you would change the bearing preload would be if you crushed the sleeve more, and it takes between 600-800 ft. lbs. to do that.

When you set up the gears, and crush the sleeve for the first time, then there is no torque spec for the pinion nut, as the nut is torqued down until the preload is correct. That might be what you're thinking of.

so basically, you have no idea whats going on. the guy above you is right, you are not.if you torque a nut that has an already crushed sleeve behind it to 200lb lbs if will fail terrible. step 1: take torque wrench and lose it. there is no torque for a used or new crush sleeve. yes, it will take approx X amount of torque to 'crush' it, but you are not done yet. the torque required to continue on then gets easier. know what you're doing before you give advice. tightening on a used sleeve is a pathetic bandaid, that in most cases will be loose again shortly after or be too tight and eat the bearings

 

[bottledgt]

I suppose it might on an 8.8, but when I set up a 7.5 with a new crush sleeve, it didn't take anywhere near that much torque to crush it. I wasn't capable with the stuff I had on hand at the time of much more than 200-250 ft-lbs.

an 8.8 and a 7.5 are about the same. they use the same crush sleeve,as does the 9 inch. and it doesnt take anywhere near 6-800 lbs. i would say in the 300-maybe 350 range.