Wiring Confusion

[6 Round Bales]

Long time lurker, first time poster. I have a bit of a pickle, I have this ranger i'm preforming a 5.0 swap on, because the carbed 2.3 was just too doggy. I have it mostly assembled, and am looking to start wiring it up and now I was wondering what color wires in the engine bay are for the ignition, and run. I looked a little but i guess not too hard because this question has probably been asked 1000+ times. I only need those wires because its a carbed 5.0. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

 

[35Remmy]

Bales, im "kind" of in the same situation...although i have this green/black connector right where the original coil was that has 12V key on only.

 

[RonD]

Long time lurker, first time poster. I have a bit of a pickle, I have this ranger i'm preforming a 5.0 swap on, because the carbed 2.3 was just too doggy. I have it mostly assembled, and am looking to start wiring it up and now I was wondering what color wires in the engine bay are for the ignition, and run. I looked a little but i guess not too hard because this question has probably been asked 1000+ times. I only need those wires because its a carbed 5.0. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

Welcome to TRS

Year of Ranger helps, but assuming 1987?

Power from engine bay fusible link TO the ignition switch should be a Yellow wire

Key on power FROM ignition switch to engine bay should be a red with light green stripe wire<< it powered the spark system

START power FROM ignition switch to Starter relay(solenoid) should be a red with light blue stripe wire<<<but this wire runs thru either a Clutch pedal switch or automatic transmission switch BEFORE it comes into the engine bay


All the 12v power for the vehicle comes from the starter relay post that has the battery positive cable attached
That's where all the fusible links are connected

But none of that does anything unless the Battery Negative(ground) is correct
The larger battery negative cable goes to engine block or starter motor BOLT, either is fine, this is for starter motor and alternators high AMPs

But you still need a ground to Frame, for tail lights
And a ground to inner fender and rad support for starter relay and head lights
Then a Ground strap from engine to Firewall<<<<<this one is very important, all cab electrics need this, it was usually a ground strap from rear of drivers side head to firewall


All vehicle body parts are painted FIRST and then assembled at the factory and usually have rubber grommets between the parts and bolts, so just because its a metal part does not mean its a good Ground, it needs to be made a good ground.........so make good grounds to get good 12volts

 

[35Remmy]

Annnnnd, Ron comes through. Again.

 

[RonD]

lol, thanks

If you go here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/index.shtml

Look at the start ignition diagrams, 1983-1988

Also have this 1987 one, below

#2 shows a Black/green stripe wire for key on power BUT........it doesn't show it running to engine bay
Drawings like these can be wrong, lol
None of them start with "In the beginning", and end with "Amen", so grain of salt

The red/light green does show it runs to engine bay, start/ignition system

But one thing to test for as far as spark system power, make sure is has 12v in START as well as RUN positions, its common for some wires to NOT have 12v in START, this is to minimizes unneeded power draws when starter motor is needed/activated
But not good to cut power to spark when starting the engine, lol

In the diagram the Black/green wire only has 12v in RUN and not in START, in the "old days" this wire may have been used with a ballast resistor, or resistor wire, so coil got 9volts with engine running instead of 14volts(alternator) which could shorten the life of the older style coils, newer coils don't need reduced voltage
But you wouldn't want reduced voltage for cold start, so separate wire, like the red/green was used for START so full voltage to coil while cranking engine

 

[6 Round Bales]

your a life saver man thanks