wireing a buggy...4.0.

[jarfly]

so i'm goin to start guttin a 95 to make a mutt of a buggy. goin to use the frame and make a f-toy type rig.

what would it take to get the 4.0 to run on toggle switch's?

 

[bobbywalter]

toggle switches....

 

[Snoranger]

toggle switches....

That my friend, is why you are an approved tech advisor.

 

[Captain Ledd]

One switch for key-on/engine-run, a button for a starter. Personally I like the large pull/on push/off switches, shuts things down in a hurry. Aside from a fan switch (which you still don't really need), anything more would be redundant.

 

[Hahnsb2]

Check out a Chiltons book for the wiring diagrams, it's not too bad to essentially set it up to run standalone. But I guess 95 is OBD2? That'll be a lot more work probably.

 

[jarfly]

I'm not sure on the obd II, But the inside of this ol' truck has been burnt so all the wireing on the inside is trash would I need any of that?
Goin to go get my books and do some reading. The more I think about this the more I want to get it goin, even if I don't make a buggy outa it. Make it alot easyer to sell if I dont bulid something.

 

[Rose2300]

pretty sure it's obdII. My 95 is. It's easy to find out, just look for the plug in under the steering wheel

 

[Snoranger]

pretty sure it's obdII. My 95 is. It's easy to find out, just look for the plug in under the steering wheel

Yes '95 Rangers are OBDII.
A '95 Explorer isnt. The body harness is, sort of, the engine and computer isnt. (in case anyone cares.)

 

[bobbywalter]

That my friend, is why you are an approved tech advisor.

hey....i couldnt resist..

I'm not sure on the obd II, But the inside of this ol' truck has been burnt so all the wireing on the inside is trash would I need any of that?
Goin to go get my books and do some reading. The more I think about this the more I want to get it goin, even if I don't make a buggy outa it. Make it alot easyer to sell if I dont bulid something.

being a 95 its tough to tell what you have exactly.....i have seen them with standard underhood hi-speed eecers and obd2 standard underdash interfaces.....and BOTH


every year the explorer has wiring variances...crazy setups to customize...

easy way is look at the pcm. is it a 104 pin or 60 pin??


if its a 104 it will be easy to use a moates type setup to prune out the system by turning stuff off....should not need a chip....otherwise you have to use a chip in the j3 port....not a big deal, just cost a little more and a bit more complicated with added gear.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_thumby.gif

or you can leave the system basically intact....

and like capt led pointed out just captain caveman the setup.

nice thing here, depending on your pdb you dont need the shit in the cab for capt caveman wheeling..


basically you should be able to unplug the big firewall plug on the drivers side to eliminate any shorting...which may have already caused pcm damage if the battery stayed live to it during the meltdown...not sure on that...too complicated to type out how to check...


i am on memory here and dont have your shit in front of me so i may be wrong on some stuff


pop the big plug on the drivers side fire wall....hook up the battery. on your truck there should be a power distribution box under hood...open it and run a hot to the pcm diode back-downstream side..pull the diode obviously for this test...if you cant figure out how to do that, stop and go learn some more basics...

if you knew to put a spade on a wire and a clip or something on the other end to the positive on the battery.....carry on.


if the chassis wiring is intact the system should be live....the fuel pump may not work if the crash kill setup was destroyed in the fire, dont remember if that one has a crash/rollover switch or not...

in this case you will have to bridge the power wires to the fuel pump.

without seeing what you got i dont know the best way to line it out...at this point though...you power the pump....bump the starter...and it should run. it wont be right...but make a good capt caveman buggy



the o2 heaters etc usually will need to be powered seperately.


eventually, power the pump right from the fp relay in the box, you can look the wires up in any chiltons...

i usually use a led lit switch and hook the check engine light to that for a power on switch with a" kill door " on it..then i put another switch in for codes on the reg obd setup so you can have them on demand. if yours is obd2 you will be wise to get a new plug and wire it in...

depending on the setup, your ignition module and pcm may want to see power at some pins when cranking...not a big deal but for best performance its needed.

if you cant figure out how to get the starter to crank with a momentary button(horn button/starter button) and a relay then your already in over your head.


its real easy depending on desires.

one fawking wire and a screwdriver to jump the starter gets it going if the system is intact...


whether you want to hook the wire to a toggle switch or not is up to you.

 

[jarfly]

thanks, soon as I get a warm day Im goin to start on this thing.Goin to go look at a buggy chassis tomarro so I may be in for a nice little clip buggy project (want to keep the ttb)

 

[jarfly]

So Would I need the computer that sits behind the pass side kick panle? This is my first time wireing a fule inj. engine.

 

[88SXT]

yes

 

[jarfly]

Any body got one for a 95 4.0 auto???

 

[holyford86]

So Would I need the computer that sits behind the pass side kick panle? This is my first time wireing a fule inj. engine.

EEC for a 95 is in the firewall right above the engine, not in the kick panel.