will welding front end help or no

[thetowtruckguy]

ok so I have an 88 ford ranger 2.9 5speed 4x4 so my problem is breaking half shafts iv tried tack welding my u-joint caps in helped lasted longer but instead of just throwing a cap like normal im breaking the ears of the shaft now I run 35's on this truck if I could find a dana 30? correct me if im wrong the front end they put in the explorers iv heard they have heavy duty shafts but with limited funds im trying to make what I have work this is a strickly mud truck haul to mud run and that's it now someone told me I could weld the front diff now I know its going to make it harder to steer but I would think it would put more stress on the axles I was already planning to weld the rear posi but I was thinking maby weld both (good idea or bad?) I mean true 4 wheel drive sounds bad ass but I think it will lead to more problem my main concern is my front half shafts what can I do that is cost efficient I keep buying them moog u-joint tack welding them in they do last longer when I do that but I want some insight from someone with more experience with this

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

It's a little hard to understand without punctuation, however....
The axles you have right now is the TTB d-28. You would be better with TTB d-35 that came in 4.0l Rangers after '90 and Explorers from '90 to IIRC '94. Also there is an article in the TRS magazine that describes how to use TTB d-44 outer knuckles on the TTB d-35, this is supposed to be stronger than either by themselves. Other option is a sas [solid axle swap] but that is out of my expertise. Everything I've read says that the d-30 is weaker than the TTB d-35.
Also I think [but don't know] that welding the front diff is going to cause more breakage if driving on road.
Good luck,

Richard

 

[adsm08]

Welding the front will exacerbate the issue you are trying to fix. The dana 30 is stronger in some places, weaker in others than both the 28 and the 35. If you want to fix this issue on the cheap your most cost effective option is the dana 35 from a 91-94 explorer or 90-97 ranger. Some rangers had a hybrid axle, but the stuff you are worried about is the good stuff on those.

Your real issue though is that the 28 just can't stand up to 35s.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[thetowtruckguy]

ok so I only welded the rear figured welding the front would cause more problems read some horror stories on line about exploding hubs and axles weather they are true or not don't want to take a chance so a buddy of mine has a 95 ford explore I was talking to about parts he will sell me the front end for cheap I just need to see what gearing it has now you said 91 to 94 what dose a 95 have? and I do apologize for my grammar and punctuation I guess its one of them things you don't use you forget how and just a side note once again this is strictly mud truck I have no title will never be put on the road hauled on the back of my tow truck to where ever the spot of wheeling will be

 

[adsm08]

95+ Explorer had the IFS front end. Control arms, torsion bar springs, CV axles, you know, junk.

The 91 to 94 had the TTB front end, which is the same style as what you have now, just beefier parts.

I know where there are a bunch of them in Williamsport, so I suppose the next question is, which Lawrenceville are you from?

 

[Downey]

im thinking hes the one up 15 but i sent you a pm im going be removing the dana 35 ttb from my truck if your interested

 

[thetowtruckguy]

yes i would be intrested and yes im right off route 15 right on the ny boardr about an hour from williamsport how much would you want for it?

 

[Dugan]

I have a locker in the front of my d35... and so far so good with 35" boggers. It never use to unlock so it was like a spool, but now it will ratchet and make horrible noises when turning haha. It did sit for 10 years with the same fluid in it.. no wonder it froze up. Ive put some strain on my d35 and have yet to snap a shaft other than when I come down from 6' in the air and lost a coil spring...

my avatar shows the image...pre detonation.

 

[kris97ranger]

My 97 reg cab is welded up front. I spun one u joint cap on 38.5" boggers with the open diff . While replaing it i welded the diff and have proceded to grenade two axles in two trips. Granted i drive it like a retard..

If u are able to have more traction theroeticly you shouldnt have to hammer as hard on it resulting in less damage.... so take that for what you will.


Personally id nver touch a dana 30. For the same amount of work you can put a 44 in. But then end up with the same u joints as a dana 35. So swap in a dana 35 is my vote far less work and near the same strength

 

[Will]

You're talking about welding the cap to the yoke.

Well, I don't comment much anymore about these axles. It's like people shooting cheetahs and asking which boat tail Winchester 270s are the best.

Most breakages are interference problems, not weakness problems. That means you aren't actually overpowering the axle--you are putting the axle into a geometry it wasn't designed to accept--like snapping a stick over your knee. No axle known to man, and that is going back a billion years, is more vulnerable to geometry than a TTB D44, D35 or D28.

Your geometry is screwed up and you try to weld the cap and it lasts a bit and then breaks and you blame the axle. If your geometry is good on a D28, it can take a lot. A D35 can take almost anything if the geometry is good. You have to grind the hell out of the yokes and test it with the axles hanging with no springs to get the clearance. It's a lot of grinding. If you haven't been doing a lot of grinding and the antelope go extinct, it's your fault.

The TTB is a very good axle--even the D28 and its earring-sized joints. But it was not designed for much wheel travel. The yokes have to be ground a lot to make it work.