Will not start

[SirSantie]

I have a 1998 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0 v6 and I have a check engine light on that read to replace an o2 sensor before the catalytic in which i did but then I noticed that when I would put the truck in drive that is didn't have any take off power like it wouldn't smoke them out if I tried. I press the peddle all the way down and it chocked doest turn off but takes off very slow. Now the truck will not even turn on.

I have replaced the battery and still dent even crank.

PLEASE HELP!!!

 

[SirSantie]

Update: I just finished checking all the fuses in the driverside interior and engine bay driver side fuses all checked out good. Truck still dent crank sounds like if the battery isn't good but i have shaped out batteries and tried jump starting it. HELP!!!

 

[RonD]

1998 Ranger shouldn't have PATS, passive anti-theft

But does it have an Alarm system?
These can disable starting


There is no "replace O2 sensor" code, what was the code number, exactly

Engine does not "crank" means starter motor is not working when you turn the key, right?
This could be transmission switch on an automatic, must be in Park or Neutral
Or the Clutch switch on a manual, clutch pedal must be down to the floor
Or could be an alarm system problem

On the starter motor there will be a larger cable(from battery), and a smaller wire
The smaller wire is what activates the starter motor
Make sure transmission is in Park or manual trans is in neutral with wheels blocked
Use a jumper wire from Battery + , to the smaller wires post on the starter motor
Engine should crank, and should start if key was ON

If starter still doesn't work then starter is bad, or its battery cable is


If engine starts but has no power then it will not be an O2 sensor problem, they are not even used until engine warms up.
Most sensors are not used when engine is cold.

So look for mechanical issues, i.e. vacuum leaks, bad gasoline, old spark plugs, low fuel pressure, ect............

 

[SirSantie]

Well the truck has no alarm system and no PATS.

The truck was starting un just fine but it was losing start up power so then I replaced the O2 sensor and a fuel filter but then after the test drive the truck still had no start up power and then it completely shut off and don't crank now. I replaced the battery and also tried to jump start it but still no crank.... If it was a faulty starter the truck should have start up power right? Or maybe it can be the Fuel pump?

I also tried starting the truck in neutral and nothing.

I tried to locate the starter little wire but I can't don't have enough clearance to reach it.

 

[SirSantie]

this are the codes it read before the main problem P0153, P0174, P0133 and P1152

 

[RonD]

P0133 slow response O2 sensor Passenger side, Bank 1 sensor 1

P0153 slow response O2 sensor Drivers side, Bank 2 sensor 1

P1152 correction of lean O2 sensors not working

P0174, drivers side exhaust, bank 2, is too lean

These all read like fuel pressure was getting lower and lower

Repeatedly trying to start the engine may have worn out the starter motor, if you can't jump the small wire then you will need to pull out the starter motor and test it

1998 should use a Returnless fuel system, so no fuel pressure regulator to leak

On the engine there is a Fuel rail, feeds gasoline to all the fuel injectors
On the passenger side of the engine you should see what "looks like" and tires air valve, a schrader valve.
It works just like a tires air valve, remove the cap, it it has one, and press the center pin in, fuel should squirt out, be careful should be 60psi pressure in there.

If no pressure then turn key on and listen for fuel pump, it only runs for 2 seconds, but each time you turn on the key it will run for 2 seconds
So cycle key on and off as much as needed
The fuel pump is not quiet, you can for sure hear it HUMMMM for those 2 seconds

 

[SirSantie]

I had that Cel on for about 4 months now.
So maybe your right about about the low fuel pressure.
When i turn the key in the on position i don't hear anything.
Plus when I turn the key to start the truck it doesnt even crank. It clicks one time then nothing after that just like when you have a bad battery same thing however I did replace the battery.

Might just need to replace the starter and fuel pump

Thanks for the help

 

[RonD]

Do the headlights work when key is ON?

headlights take about 8 amps and so does fuel pump, just making sure your power distribution is OK.
Corroded connections lower available amps/voltage so fuel pump could have been running at a slower speed, so lower pressure.

1998 12volt power distribution looks to be directly to the engine fuse box, the smaller of the two wires coming off the positive battery terminal should run to the underside of engine fuse box, but never look at one myself

The other half of power is the Negative battery terminal and it's wires, DC voltage needs complete circuit for the amps/volts to flow.
If the Ground(negative) side of the circuit is limited to 5 amps then 5amps is the maximum for the circuit, so good clean grounds are needed for full amps/volts to flow

 

[SirSantie]

So today I decided to try another battery from my car and guess what the Fuel pump turns on... I hear it turn on but the truck doesn't crank. I looked under the engine bay to see the starter and it is all full of oil and very dirty. Think it might not get a good contact so I will be removing it to clean. Question does the starter have 2 bolts holding it in place or three? I was only able to see two.

 

[RonD]

Just the Two in the bellhousing

Have run into a 3rd at rear of starter that bolts to the block, but not often

 

[SirSantie]

Update

I bought a new battery at autozone.

I put the switch on the on position and I do not hear the fuel pump turn on so with the key on the on position i went to check the valve on the fuel rail. I pressed down and furl comes out but not spraying out like with pressure. also when I go to turn the key to start the truck there a click in the passenger side dash and thats all the noise that it makes.

What do you guys recommend i do looks like im dealing with a jacked up furl pump and starter... Idk were do you guys think i should start?

 

[RonD]

Do the dash light come on with the key ON?

I.E. the check engine light and the battery light

If so then EEC relay and ignition switch is working

So yes, looks like you have a bad fuel pump and starter motor
There is no common connection between the two, outside of the battery and ignition switch

In the engine fuse box there are two relays that should click with key on
EEC(PCM) Relay, FP(fuel pump) Relay

get your owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/gener...d-ranger-owner-manuals-1996-2011-models-3747/

Scroll to pages 99-100

Relay 4 is PCM relay, uses fuse 8
Relay 5 is FP relay, uses fuse 9

These should both click with key ON, FP relay will click again 2 second later

 

[SirSantie]

I checked this fuses and they seem to be good I also shaped them around but nothing still the same ol problem. Im going to remove the starter and test it with the battery next.

 

[SirSantie]

Update
I pulled the starter out and the sileniod was melted to the bolt of the small wire.

Going to get a new starter or can i just buy the solenoid and replace it?

 

[ratdude747]

Update
I pulled the starter out and the sileniod was melted to the bolt of the small wire.

Going to get a new starter or can i just buy the solenoid and replace it?

Yes but you're asking for trouble. I'd replace the whole thing and not have to r&r it again when the rest of the starter fails, which if you're like me will happen soon after replacing the solenoid.