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Will 4* fix this positive camber? (Pics)


Ranger1221

Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2015
Messages
11
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
94' Ranger XLT 4X4 4.0

Just installed 4" lift springs and new shocks in the front and have some bad positive camber now. I just installed 4* adjustable camber/alignment bushings and am going to get an alignment down professionally. Before I even go in there do you think 4* will fix this positive camber or do I absolutely NEED drop brackets? I don't know what a 4* difference in camber will look like.

Don't want to waste time making an appointment if they are going to tell me they can't get it into spec.

If not, are there any alternatives to drop brackets? Just don't want to spend another 200$+ right now.

Thanks
 

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Well with that much lift drop brackets are probably a good idea, but 4* bushings should fix just about anything.

Bear in mind though that new springs will settle out, and even if you have it aligned the camber is going to change several times over the next few months as the springs settle.
 
Thanks for the reply, thats good to hear.

Perhaps I'll ask the shop doing the alignment if they can set it at .5* positive to compensate for the springs to settle. I know it won't be exact, but should give me a little more time in between alignments, assuming I'll have to get it done again months later after the springs compress.
 
Well... I've been researching for a couple hours about lifting TTB's and the general consensus is that anything over 2" will need radius arm drop brackets. I guess I'll just have to see if the shop doing the alignment can work with the new adjustable bushings enough to correct it or I will need the drop brackets.

My question now is, if I do need drop brackets, do i also need drop axle pivot brackets too?
Sigh... time for a beer :beer:
 
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I bet your 4in lift springs will settle to 2in over the next couple months. I'd just have the shop do the best they can and see how much they settle. Not out anything other than possibly wearing your front tires a little. A drop pitman arm would help and be a lot cheaper than the drop brackets to get your by for now.
 
A good quality spring shouldn't settle hardly at all.
Springs that lose height over time most likely were never "pre-set" at the factory, which makes for all sorts of alignment issues since they are continuously changing (losing) height.

But yes, 4" lift springs will for sure require both radius arm and axle drop brackets, no two ways around that one (unless you already have some parts on hand, it's almost always better to buy a complete suspension kit rather than try to piece something together).
 
Thank you for the solid answer 4X4junkie. Was actually hoping you'd chime in on this post, seen your name a lot while searching.

After hours of research on this forum and others I pretty much came to that conclusion too, so I have axle pivot brackets and radius arm brackets on the way.

The coils I put in are skyjackers (which I read most of their products are well made, especially the drop brackets.) Trying to keep all the parts from them so it's solid. Though they are the "soft ride" coils, maybe they will settle some? Doesn't really matter, if they do i'll just throw spacers under the coils...

Something I just thought of today... Will I still be able to use my sway bar with the stock brackets?
 
You might need longer end-links for your sway bar, but otherwise it should be fine (might be a good opportunity to put disconnectable ones on it for when you go off road).
 
4 in is too far, but dropping a coil or 1/2 wrap depending on side could get it into range depending on where your starting from.


that combined with relocating the oem radius arms back and using 150 or e series arms would be a cost effective solution if you live near a u-pull junk yard.

otherwise buy the drops.
 
Update

Thank you all for the help, finally got her done.

Used 4" coils and 1" coil spacers in front. Removed rear blocks and replaced with 5" blocks instead of stacking (2) 2.5"s. Installed Skyjacker dropped pitman arm, drop pivot brackets and radius arm brackets. New shocks all around, extended stainless steel braided brake hoses and 06+ emblems.
 

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Looks good :icon_thumby:

You might try moving the driverside axle beam to the upper bracket hole, this should improve your clearance under the diff & beam, and make the frontend geometry a bit better as well.
 
You know, I'm glad you said that. I assumed I needed as much drop as possible to fix the camber so I chose the lower holes and didn't think twice about it. When I had the alignment done, the tech said he had to max out one of the camber bushings to get it into spec. Both front tires are sitting with negative camber now (within spec), so when the springs settle it's going to get worse and the bushings will already be maxed out. Glad I have that another hole to use :icon_thumby:

I'll be changing holes this weekend. Im assuming I should do it to the passenger axle too?
 
Your passengerside beam didn't look quite as bad (for reasons unknown, Skyjacker's brackets have their holes at different positions for passenger & driverside beams (driverside having more drop). However if your passengerside camber bushing is set for significant positive correction, then go ahead and move it up as well (best to have the bushings closer to a neutral correction setting than having one or both near max).
 
If you dont mind me asking, about how much would you say it costed to piece everything together instead of going with a kit setup?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
well looks good ,i also have the same problem ecept 84 ranger 5.5 superlift complete kit ,installed it and cant seem to clock the camber bushings to even remotly get the wheels to sit straight enough to take it to the allignment shop .can anyone help me.
 

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