why is cruise control not working?

[surfer5567]

Truck is a 94 4x4 m5r1 truck. Checked the fuse under dash and it was in good condition. When I hit they on button nothing happens, no dash light or anything. Like its not getting power. What should I check and how should I do it?

Thanks for the help!

 

[Lil-Pony]

Grounds? Power needs a return path

 

[surfer5567]

Which grounds? How do I check them?

 

[Lil-Pony]

Unfortunately I don't own this year truck but all cruise controls work basically the same except the newer ones. Trace the throttle linkages from your throttle body till you find one that lead to a fist size box probably mounted on the firewall. I don't have a diagram for your year either there will be 5-12 wires coming out of this box and probably a vacuum line as well. Check the vacuum line first, that's if yours use the vacuum to control the throttle body position. That's all I can say with out a diagram

 

[Lil-Pony]

What size motor

 

[Lil-Pony]

For the 4.0 but should be the same no matter what engine hopefully

 

[Lil-Pony]

I would check wires 57 for continuity, 964 for 12volts, 511 for no power and power when brake is depressed, 151 for power when on is pressed and continuity when off is pressed.

 

[surfer5567]

Its a 4.0 ohv. And I appreciate the help! What continuity range should I look for on my continuity tester? Sorry I am not an electrical wiz. Just getting the hang of electrical stuff.

 

[Lil-Pony]

Mine normally beeps at me, I would guess anything lower than 15 ohm, I truly don't really know, an I'm an electrician which is the sad part, continuity is the conductors ability to transmit power and voltage. I'm just learning electrical engineering, so yeah. It should be real close to zero tho.

 

[PlumCrazy]

90% of the time its a faulty brake pressure switch located on the master cyl...

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[adsm08]

For resistance testing Ford considers less than 5 ohms to be "good". In reality anything over 1 probably indicates a problem unless there is supposed to be a resistor in the line.

First thing I would check is the pressure switch in the master cylinder. They leak, kill the CC, and set the truck on fire.

After that the list of suspects gets very short. Basically the switches or the servo. Wiring is almost never really the problem.

 

[surfer5567]

Anyone have a pic of what that switch looks like and where it could be located?

 

[Earl43P]

There are two electrical switches on your brake master cylinder.

One is directly under the reservoir and lights your BRAKE light in the dash when the fluid is low. That ain't it.

The other one is it. If you want to test to see if it is bad, remove the connector and jumper the two pins. Tape the jumper into place to keep it intact and from touching any metal, then drive it to test the Cruise. If that works, replace the switch.

If you can't find those two switches and tell them apart after that explanation, you need to step away from all tools and lower your hood. If you don't know where the brake master cylinder is, re-read that previous sentence. Hint: You know where you check your brake fluid?, the MC is the metal part attached to and beneath the reservoir, with BRAKE lines attached to it.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52108&highlight=cruise+control

 

[PlumCrazy]

Actually...chances are if you go to the dealer, your truck is probably covered under the brake switch/pigtail recall. They replace for free.

I took mine in.lol They noticed I had deleted my ABS, swapped in a 1 ton master, and ditched the vacuums booster in favor of Hydroboost.lol

They asked why I did all that and didn't replace it myself...I explained that they would being doing it at no cost to me...so why should I pay for a switch if I don't have to.lol

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