Who here is a plumber?

[Jspafford]

I am trying to figure out how much it would cost to have a hookup for a toilet put in a basement?

I can run the water lines myself. I just need the waste line run. The toilet would be mounted directly over the main drain so all I need done is a hole cut in the concrete floor, the pipe connected into the main drain, and then I could finish it off.

Everyone I called wants to send someone out. I don't even know if I want to do the project, so I don't want bunch of plumbers coming over.

Trying to get a guesstimate on prices.

 

[Will]

I wouldn't cut the basement slab. I would use a sewage lift to pump it up into one of the higher lines.

 

[Jspafford]

I wouldn't cut the basement slab. I would use a sewage lift to pump it up into one of the higher lines.

How high can it lift the waste? What diameter pipe will I need it to connect into?

 

[MAKG]

My house has one of these.

I don't know what "can" be done, but mine lifts the sewage about 6 feet through a check valve into the main drain line. The main line is 3.5 inch (OD) ABS. The pump line appears to be 2 inches. It services a single 1/2 bath (sink and toilet). Both drain through the wall. There is no floor flange.

 

[Will]

It would lift probably 15' into any size line if you put a macerator on it, which I would. I would mount the toilet on a stage with the pipe coming out into the side of a sump. The pump is in the sump with a float valve. When you flush the water and waste go into the sump. When the float switch kits the thing on it chews up and pump the stuff up into. a line overhead. Probably a check valve is a good idea because you don't want a column of shee-shee roaring back down the pipe and blowing you off the throne. Or leave a handgun in a glass case with a "In case of check valve failure, break glass" so you could shoot yourself. JK

I know people commonly have those things but I've never actualy seen one first hand. But cutting a perfectly sound concrete slab, not me. We had a tailet installed like that when I was a kid. It was always backing up because the crap couldn't just fall free--it went down and had to make a left turn into on-coming traffic. My dad finally capped it and put shelves in there to store my mom's canning.

 

[codered1300]

How far from the main drain are you? I did it and did it in about 4hrs, the concrete is 4" thick with plastic under it and fine cinder, i drew out where i wanted the drain to go across the floor and drilled a bunch of holes and used my air hammer to remove the concrete, and then dug in the gravel to pitch the line to the main drain. Hope this helps

 

[Defective]

Anytime you have the opportunity to avoid a lift station or sump pump, do it. NOBODY likes cleaning toilets, imagine cleaning out the pit allong with it. They can malfunction and get plugged up accidentally too, not to mention electrical connections and space required. Why add that expense and maintanance when you can just drop it through the floor?

Also, unless you get a wall mounted toilet, or an expensive pressure assist back outlet toilet, you've either got to raise your floor or cut it anyway. And also know that plumbing code says you have to slope at at least 1/8" per foot, 1/4" prefereably, on both drain and vent pipes.

Really the only reason to have one is if you CANNOT use gravity either becuase it's not available, or becuase code is preventing it.

 

[skippy]

the folks you called need to see it before they can give you a fair price,estimates should be free.the job needs to be permitted and done to code for safety and health reasons.get at least three estimates.

 

[skippy]

just another thought,email ask this old house.maybe you'll end up on tv and get a free install for your effort.

 

[Simple_serf]

We use lift pumps at work for sinks in demo areas. They are continually breaking down and backing up. granted this is also in a commercial environment.

 

[JohnnyO]

Depends a lot on the original drain pipe. If it's old cast iron it will be brittle and it can be a real mofo to cut it and tap into without it disintegrating.

 

[MountainRanger]

Probably a check valve is a good idea because you don't want a column of shee-shee roaring back down the pipe and blowing you off the throne. Or leave a handgun in a glass case with a "In case of check valve failure, break glass" so you could shoot yourself. JK

lamo Ha thats the funniest thing ive heard all week

 

[MAKG]

We use lift pumps at work for sinks in demo areas. They are continually breaking down and backing up. granted this is also in a commercial environment.

I have had exactly two problems since 1999 with my sewer pump.

#1. A root got in and filled it up, making it run continuously until I unplugged it. Then got a plumber to cut the pump out, remove all the roots, and connect it back up (it was around $100).

#2. The mainline plugged (another root), causing it and everything else to back up. One can hardly blame the pump for this. It was worst at the basement toilet because it's lowest and I was stupid enough to flush the toilet before I'd figured out what was up.

Now, it's a basement/garage toilet that only gets used when I'm working on one of my vehicles or the mother in law comes. But I suspect the toilet in question here will see similar use.

 

[Jspafford]

So it just attaches to an existing drain line in the ceiling of the basement? What size piping? I would think at least 3/4".

 

[zapper2003]

Here's about the "easiest" solution, but not necessarily the most cost effective. I believe the pump cost us (contractor pricing) around 500, but don't quote me on that, they could cost more by now. They discharge with a 2" line, have the flange built on, and all you have to do is build your flooring around it.