Who can teach me about spark plugs?

[Brandon12]

Who can teach me about spark plug wires?

Alright, I know what it does. I have just been reading about them and some people say that all the name brand spark plug wires don't increase horsepower compared to other brand and stock plug wires that are new. Others say that with less resistance, more spark equals more power. Who can explain the correct answer and be able to back it up?

 

[martin]

A few years ago I spent a day at an engine dyno. The guys tried different brands of plugs and wires on the same motor. Horsepower and torque figures were identical on every pull. Draw your own conclusions.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Less resistance in wires and the plugs themselves would create a more EFFICIENT spark, but not always more power. A more efficient spark will ignite the air/fuel mixture easier, but it's not really going to gain you any HP or torque. Your coil might be appreciative of the reduced load though.

 

[srteach]

Basic electrical theory:
Resistance to electrical flow causes electrical power to be converted to heat. That means less power (voltage x current) applied to the work (creating a spark). The spark is less energetic, causing the fuel to ignite by flame front.

Amperage (current) is what forces the spark to jump the gap in a spark plug. Total current in a circuit remains the same regardless of the number of paths the electricity takes. Plugs with 2 (or more) anodes have the same total current passing through. More anodes make a longer spark arc (to a certain point), but not a more powerful total spark current. Using multiple anode plugs in a vehicle without the current to run them will cause flame front ignition or no ignition at all.

In a vehicle, you want all the fuel to ignite at once, giving greater force to the piston more efficiently. You want the fuel to ignite by the spark, not the flame front.

That being said, wires and plugs gain resistance with age, due to breakdown of materials. Quality of build has a lot to do with length of service.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Basic electrical theory:
Resistance to electrical flow causes electrical power to be converted to heat. That means less power (voltage x current) applied to the work (creating a spark). The spark is less energetic, causing the fuel to ignite by flame front.

Amperage (current) is what forces the spark to jump the gap in a spark plug. Total current in a circuit remains the same regardless of the number of paths the electricity takes. Plugs with 2 (or more) anodes have the same total current passing through. More anodes make a longer spark arc (to a certain point), but not a more powerful total spark current. Using multiple anode plugs in a vehicle without the current to run them will cause flame front ignition or no ignition at all.

In a vehicle, you want all the fuel to ignite at once, giving greater force to the piston more efficiently. You want the fuel to ignite by the spark, not the flame front.

That being said, wires and plugs gain resistance with age, due to breakdown of materials. Quality of build has a lot to do with length of service.

Thanks for going into detail. I haven't had my coffee yet this morn and couldn't think of how to explain it like that. Of course, my thoughts were also interrupted by the fact that a coyote ran through the back yard. Unfortunately for me, he didn't stick around long enough, lol.

 

[mhughes165]

Thanks for going into detail. I haven't had my coffee yet this morn and couldn't think of how to explain it like that. Of course, my thoughts were also interrupted by the fact that a coyote ran through the back yard. Unfortunately for me, he didn't stick around long enough, lol.

but u also have to consider that all of our engines were designed with specitifications in mind, stock style plugs with stock oem wires will make a improvment in "horse power" over aged plugs and wires.

since the more efficient spark isnt required putting any combination of garbage ass bosch, e3 and all the plugs like that. and u guessed it since we dont need the plugs, the improved wires wont make anything better

if it is a import i run OEM plugs or NGK
american products get nothing but autolites or OEM(be it platinum or non)

its kinda like polishing a turd, u can spend the money on it make it look all pretty, but its still a turd


oh ya, and ANYTHING forced induction or high compression platinum tipped is BAD as forbid u run into a lean situation at any time, the platinum has been known for blowing off the tips

 

[straycat]

I watch the Horsepower tv show and Trucks tv show and I have been to Dyna pulls for drag cars and when used with more components (HP distributors, HP cams, and ported heads and balanced motors) the plugs and wires swap may have helped gain a bit more HP...but not enough to say just the plugs and wires did it alone. Better wires and plugs will give a better throttle response on a tune up and last longer then some stock components most likley. I used all of this on my old drag/street cars years ago. For an all out top end the performance plugs/wires were far better then the stock ones...but stock was better for a dd with the 460+ hp motors I was running around with.

Here is my 72 911S 265 hp motor. I used the factory wires with it and never put on aftermarket wires.

This is my 68 'Cuda small block 400+ that Don Garlits Speed Shop build for me
back in the late 70's (76-77). I used Mopar wires and plugs on it. Don Garlits told me not to waste money on expensive aftermarket wires on a mostly dd street and twice a month drag car. I am sure he would have been glad to have me spend more money on the wires but he was honest about that.

Here is a shot under the hood. I wish I had a better camera back then...

 

[Brandon12]

Alright thanks guys. I learned what i wanted to learn. I can show my friend this thread and tell him to suck it now.

 

[feellnfroggy]

Basic electrical theory:

Amperage (current) is what forces the spark to jump the gap in a spark plug. .

I don't know where this came from, The course I took in electronics, was taught by a guy with two doctorates. one in physics, the other in something else i didnt understand. But I was taught that voltage is what creates the spark, YOu run a 12v system, but the coil converts your signal to about 40k volts which is what allows the spark. Amps is the amount of current the spark is carrying. Such as: When you get an electrostatic charge from a door handle its about 30k volts, but only .005 amps.

A Claymore mine takes 3 volts to ignite the blasting cap. Hence the reason we have to be careful because the static electricity from our hands is enough to set one off.

This is what I was taught in the Army and college. But then again maybe my instructors were wrong. Students always say they are, maybe their right.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I don't know where this came from, The course I took in electronics, was taught by a guy with two doctorates. one in physics, the other in something else i didnt understand. But I was taught that voltage is what creates the spark, YOu run a 12v system, but the coil converts your signal to about 40k volts which is what allows the spark. Amps is the amount of current the spark is carrying. Such as: When you get an electrostatic charge from a door handle its about 30k volts, but only .005 amps.

A Claymore mine takes 3 volts to ignite the blasting cap. Hence the reason we have to be careful because the static electricity from our hands is enough to set one off.

This is what I was taught in the Army and college. But then again maybe my instructors were wrong. Students always say they are, maybe their right.

By golly you're right... I should have caught that earlier. Guess it's just been one of those days for me... 5 cups of coffee and my brain was still out to lunch...

 

[robertc1024]

+2 on that. Voltage is what makes the spark jump. You could think of currant as something like how hard it jumps. I bet the current is down in the mAmps.

 

[Ranger44]

You can never go wrong with motorcraft of autolite on a FORD.

 

[straycat]

I don't know where this came from, The course I took in electronics, was taught by a guy with two doctorates. one in physics, the other in something else i didnt understand. But I was taught that voltage is what creates the spark, YOu run a 12v system, but the coil converts your signal to about 40k volts which is what allows the spark. Amps is the amount of current the spark is carrying. Such as: When you get an electrostatic charge from a door handle its about 30k volts, but only .005 amps.

A Claymore mine takes 3 volts to ignite the blasting cap. Hence the reason we have to be careful because the static electricity from our hands is enough to set one off.

This is what I was taught in the Army and college. But then again maybe my instructors were wrong. Students always say they are, maybe their right.

Another thing about the Claymore mine I learned about years ago while I was a Special OPs combat diver.....

The controlled detonation can be accomplished by use of either an electrical or nonelectrical firing system. I have used them under water many times.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

OEM are the best choice.

If you cross to a different plug, it is something that is close and will work, but not always exact.

For wires, it doesn't really matter in modern car. I got 9mm blue Ford Racing wires for my 302 because they look cool, are cut to length, and cost about the same as a regular set... not for any performance hopes.

 

[feellnfroggy]

OEM are the best choice.

If you cross to a different plug, it is something that is close and will work, but not always exact.

For wires, it doesn't really matter in modern car. I got 9mm blue Ford Racing wires for my 302 because they look cool, are cut to length, and cost about the same as a regular set... not for any performance hopes.

your right about OEM, those chinese made claymores are really unreliable.