White Hot Fuel Pump Wire

[CrashDriver]

Hey, I have a 1988 4x4 ranger XLT with a 2.9.
The inertia switch died on it and I've put off replacing it, just jumped the wire with a paperclip for the time being and had no issues (I daily drive it).

Last night I drove it home with no out of the ordinary circumstances. This morning I went to start it up and the engine fired for an instant and died.
I cranked it for a few seconds and then looked over at my jumped wire on the floor and saw it was glowing almost white hot.
I cooled it with some snow and then tested just turning the key to the on position and instantly the snow on the jumper turned to steam.

I don't know what is causing the insane draw, not sure what to even start looking at here. Any research I've done seems to lead to a bad fuel pump but I don't know how to find out for sure.
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Shran]

Somehow your jumper or the switch or the wire coming from the fuel pump relay has shorted to ground, you have 12v positive power going straight to ground if it's getting hot like that.

 

[CrashDriver]

Somehow your jumper or the switch or the wire coming from the fuel pump relay has shorted to ground, you have 12v positive power going straight to ground if it's getting hot like that.

Thanks, I guess I'll try to follow the wire to either end.

 

[CrashDriver]

bit of an older thread but I figured I'd give some closure.
I had the truck sitting until today but I ended up pulling out the high pressure pump and testing it (it ran fine, pumped gas everywhere).

The wire did not get hot when I turned the key on with it disconnected and the other pump turned on.
Oddly, I put everything back in just the way it was, and the truck fired right up. So I guess it's fine for now, but I don't trust these problems that solve themselves.
I wonder if the high pressure pump had bound up or something, but I'll just drive it and see what happens.

 

[gaz]

@CrashDriver
Sounds like you had a loose connection, uninstalling and reinstalling everytime closed it up.

Using an uninsulated paperclip to troubleshoot is ine thing, leaving it in as a permanent repair is another all together. Either install the jumped component with a working replacement or at the bare minimum, use insulated wire that is the proper gauge fur the know/expected max current draw.