Which radiator for 86 Ranger?

[JoshT]

Got 86 Ranger that was stock 2.9L truck. Putting in 5.0L from 98 Explorer using L&L motor mounts. Will be reinstalling AC eventually and will be installing trans cooler, so need to keep space under and in front of core support open for those. So which radiator will basically drop back into the stock location on this thing? It sounds like probably the 91-94 Explorer 4.0L, but not sure about mounting.

 

[RangerSVT]

Correct, 1st gen ex, 2nd gen ranger with the 4.0 automatic...

SVT

 

[Thed]

Go to Rock Auto and get a new dual-row radiator for a 93-94 Exploder...should run you about $80 before shipping.

 

[JoshT]

What hoses do people usually use with this? I'm doubting that the 98 explorer hoses (new ones) would work because of the difference in radiators and removing the engine oil cooler.

Go to Rock Auto and get a new dual-row radiator for a 93-94 Exploder...should run you about $80 before shipping.

That's exactly why I'm asking, about to place a Rock Auto order and want to get a radiator too if the price is right. Getting wheel bearings, seals, and related hardware, as well as Cobra rotors and pads. I'm sure I'll think of other things I need after placing my order, but I want to get what I can think of now.

I may need to get an AC condenser as well, it would be best to have that in place before I install the radiator so I don't have to pull it all back out again. I have the stock 86 one that's sat open for about 13 years, it may be good but I don't know if it will work with the Frankenstein system I'll be assembling. Using most of the stock system I think but adapting it to work with the 98 Explorer compressor.

Once I get my brake lines run in the frame setting the engine in the bay is the next step. I already have my motor mounts and all the things I need to swap on the engine. The only things left to get are the cooling system, hoses for my filter relocation, and possibly an electric fan. Then it'll be a little wiring, shortened drive shaft and this thing will be ready to run.

 

[RangerSVT]

For the TTB setup, I used a mustang lower and trimmed each side (see my SVT build thread, first post), when I did my sport trac swap, I found that in 99 ford did not use the oil cooler, just a long adapter, so the lower hose on the 99-01 goes straight from the water pump to the rad (sport trac thread, first post)...

SVT

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

In mine the Explorer 2 row JUST keeps it coolish (around 200 if I keep it moving) in the summer, borderline not enough for street driving (no stop and go) No AC preheating the air either.

Someday I want to put in the Explorer 5.0 Radiator, with my bodylift the bottom should just about be flush with the bottom of the frame rails.

With the Explorer 2 row bolted in the stock mounts (it bolts in) I used the 5.0 Explorer upper hose and had to trim it because the Explorer engine sits farther away from the radiator than my Ranger's engine. It rubs on the alternator so I need to do something different there. The lower I just used a flexhose.

Here is my Explorer FEAD install, it has pics of my setup in it:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133205

 

[JoshT]

Thanks for the quick replies.

SVT, I'll give the 99 Explorer upper and lower a try and trim as necessary. If the lower doesn't work I'll try the Mustang lower. When you installed the Body lift did it also raise the radiator? Mine's a 2wd without a BL and it won't be getting one. Hoping to get this project moving. Need to get those beams I bought from you (I think it was you) on the road soon. The sooner I can get this thing running the more likely I'll be able to make it to the FFW meet in July.

85, thanks for telling me about your experience with the radiator. I'll definitely keep it in mind, but I will be giving it a try myself though. There are a lot of people that have had success with this motor/radiator combo. If I find that it will not work well enough I will have a custom radiator built to fit the same area, but that's money better spent elsewhere for now. at the moment this truck is nothing but a cab, frame, rear axle, and front suspension. I have a lot of areas that need the money. With the exception of gauges hopefully my soon to be placed rock auto order will cover most of the major parts I still need, after that is should just be dress items and getting a proper fuel tank set-up. I'll just be strapping the Explorer tank on top of the frame rails for now but want to put a BII tank under the bed. No offense meant to anyone running them, but I don't like flex hoses. Never had a bad experience, just don't like them.

Now off to the local swap met to see if there is anything I need.

 

[RangerSVT]

Yeah, it was me you got the beams from. I have a body lift, but I used the rad drop brackets, so theoretically I have no body lift in relation to the location of the engine...


SVT

 

[JoshT]

Well hopefully they'll be getting used again soon. Got the brake and fuel lines swapped from the Explorer into the Ranger today. Have to modify the lines some so they'll tuck up into the Ranger frame and get the brake booster, master cylinder, and ABS thing mounted up. Also need to get a BFH and chunk of 4x4 to bend the firewall flange for trans clearance. That's all I lack having the bay ready for the motor.

Next task is to prep the motor. Got the parts sitting here in a box ready to go on so hopefully by next weekend the motor will be in or going in. I have to do some checking on these Explorer blocks. Apparently they have a bump near the mount boss on the driver side that wasn't on earlier 5.0L blocks and it supposedly interferes with the L&L mounts. If the material is there I'd rather massage the bump on the block than the little bit of material on the mount. Should be easy enough to check while I have the oil pan off.

 

[RangerSVT]

Josh, that 'bump' is an oil passage plug. You will either have to modify the l&l mounts or go to the stock 4.0 rubber mounts with the engine plates like I went used...


SVT

 

[1mean02hd]

In mine the Explorer 2 row JUST keeps it coolish (around 200 if I keep it moving) in the summer, borderline not enough for street driving (no stop and go) No AC preheating the air either.

Had the same issue with mine. Used a trimmed Fox Mustang upper and part of an Exploder lower and part of a Fox lower with a piece of pipe in the middle. This time I went with a universal Ford aluminum radiator off eBay. It's still 2 row but the core area is a lot bigger so I shouldn't have the warm operating temps any more. I can also fit a puller fan as opposed to a pusher fan this time.

 

[JoshT]

Just as an FYI for anyone searching for L&L mount info in the future I managed to work around the "bump" without modifying the mounts. I made a small spacer between the mount and block using three grade 8 washers. Figured if it's a good enough for lifting a truck it'll do for a spacer. I think that had it clear, but was still a little close to me. Would have thrown in another washer and been golden, but I didn't have one on hand. Instead I very lightly hit the bottom of the hump with the back side of a cut off wheel, that got me about a washer thickness (not sure how thick that was) of clearance. For anyone else trying this if you can come up with a 1/4" spacer to go between the mount and block it would be more than enough to clear the "bump" in the block. These mounts are supposed to set the engine lower and further back than any other pre-made option and the 4.0L mounts. That's not really needed for these EFI engines, but on the carbed engines they were designed for hood clearance was at a premium with some intakes. If figure that I aught to have plenty of clearance for the spacers. If not it'll be an excuse to get that cowl hood I've though about.