Where do you get your parts from, aftermarket or oem?

[RobbieD]

Maybe creating a spreadsheet with common parts and common brands with price and quality being the two important details, although right now the price is going to fluctuate a lot. I think this thread could make a great article when finished if we could do something like that.

I've done something like that for my own trucks, and started it mainly to see what parts I could rob from Peter to keep Paul running, back in the leaner times.

I used to look parts up and jot down on paper the parts numbers and prices, especially when comparison shopping for prices. That was very disorganized, hard to keep up with and hard go back to and reference. And eventually, I'd find myself looking up the same damn part(s) again later on . . .

So . . . once you get a spreadsheet set up, it takes no more time to type than it does to write; and it can be painlessly stored, instantly accessed and easily referenced. It's not that much of a hassle to enter the info every time you have to look up a part, and with time you get a pretty good database. I started this spreadsheet about 15 years ago, and use it often.

Prices will fluctuate (and why is it always up? ), but the ability to cross-reference parts numbers across my trucks is surprisingly handy.

I only have 4 different RBV truck types, so it's manageable. Think "small fleet operator" or "eccentric collector" or "wanna-be museum director".

I just don't think something like this would work too well for an "all years all models" scenario.

 

[I support common sense]

I've done something like that for my own trucks, and started it mainly to see what parts I could rob from Peter to keep Paul running, back in the leaner times.

I used to look parts up and jot down on paper the parts numbers and prices, especially when comparison shopping for prices. That was very disorganized, hard to keep up with and hard go back to and reference. And eventually, I'd find myself looking up the same damn part(s) again later on . . .

So . . . once you get a spreadsheet set up, it takes no more time to type than it does to write; and it can be painlessly stored, instantly accessed and easily referenced. It's not that much of a hassle to enter the info every time you have to look up a part, and with time you get a pretty good database. I started this spreadsheet about 15 years ago, and use it often.

Prices will fluctuate (and why is it always up? ), but the ability to cross-reference parts numbers across my trucks is surprisingly handy.

I only have 4 different RBV truck types, so it's manageable. Think "small fleet operator" or "eccentric collector" or "wanna-be museum director".

I just don't think something like this would work too well for an "all years all models" scenario.

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I’m going to give that a try. That and I’m working on keeping a personal log.

 

[gw33gp]

I buy Motorcraft whenever possible and much of the time it is from Rock Auto. One exception is brake pads and shoes. My factory brakes were not good. They faded on me several times. Now, I use only Akebono Ceramic pads. I installed Raybestos Super Stop shoes (no longer available) at a little over 50K miles on my Ranger. That combination works very well and are very durable. Those Super Stop brake shoes are still on my Ranger with over 305K miles and still have plenty of lining on them with still great stopping power. The Akebono Ceramic pads have been replaced a few times but out wear anything else I have used.

 

[97RangerXLT]

like others have said, depends.

Rock Auto is my go to for planned maintenance/ repair. usually they have pretty good deals on MotorCraft parts too. If it is safety related, brakes, steering etc, I get middle to high end parts if not OEM. same for parts that I have to spend a lot of time tearing things down to get to it. if it is something simple, easy to replace, I will go cheaper end.

Big box stores.. Autozone/ OReilly/ Advanced/ Pep Boys. here in central Indiana, parts from them are quite expensive compared to similar parts on Rock Auto. case in point. a year and a half ago I needed an idler pulley for my Buick. figured since I needed it fairly quickly and hey, an idler pulley cant be that much I went to Autzone. paid $50 bucks for a Duralast idler. damn. went home and put it on. went to RA and found that I could get a similar quality idler for 19 bucks and 7 more to ship it to me. so basically half the price. noticed that with other parts as well. i can easily save well over 20 bucks and often 30 to 40 bucks by going with Rock Auto. and that takes into account shipping costs.

Rock Auto... caveats. they will screw you royally on shipping if you are not careful. watch your cart, sometimes a part will suddenly switch to a different warehouse as you add things. if you can get away with shipping from 1 or 2 different warehouses, you can usually save some money.

Amazon, every once in a while Amazon will have parts cheaper shipped to my door than Rock Auto. not very often, but sometimes. (I have Prime) Thing to watch on Amazon, they don't know their cars very well, and can say that the part fits your car but it won't or vice versa. if you know the parts number, you can do better research. Also returns for Amazon parts that need warrantied is a royal pain in the ass or even not an option, so beware.

AJ

 

[I support common sense]

All of you speak about mid grade, high or low quality. I guess what I really want to know is what brands produce what level of quality?

 

[RobbieD]

All of you speak about mid grade, high or low quality. I guess what I really want to know is what brands produce what level of quality?

All that I can give you on that is my opinion- things change so much, and so fast these days there ain't no good ways to know anymore, short of paying your nickel and taking your chances.

A brand that was bullet-proof last year, can be absolute junk this year.

Parts companies, even trusted old legacy brands, change management, and get sold a lot; mainly to "investors". All businesses seem to exist now, for ONLY one reason- maximum profit. As long as the company execs and shareholders can milk it as much as they possibly can, they don't care if they're wringing the teat off the cow in doing it. They'll take all the money now, and then sell the carcass to the butcher when they're done.

What a lot of people don't understand, is that it's not as much the fault of the factories in China, Mexico, India or Timbuktu, rather it's the blood-sucking vampire fat cats sitting in the home offices that decide how cheaply they want their junk made. Factories follow orders, and a cheating factory gets fired.

Beyond that reality, MotorCraft (Ford) parts have always been good. Hopefully they will stay that way.

Big box chains, usually offer "good . . . better . . . best" house brand lines, usually with corresponding warranties. This is one approach to making a purchase decision considering the part's expected quality. A big box chain store should also give a "no hassle" warranty; and that is probably the most important thing going for them as a source choice. >>> A good parts store, will give a good customer an honest opinion, if asked, about the brands that they have.

My own first choice, every time, is a working or repairable original factory installed part. Then, MotorCraft. Non-critical (brakes, etc.) is whatever aftermarket brand that sounds good at the time.

I'm going to yell at clouds now . . .

 

[sgtsandman]

All of you speak about mid grade, high or low quality. I guess what I really want to know is what brands produce what level of quality?

The best I can tell you is it depends on what part you are talking about. Even then, the trusted brands aren't what they used to be and others have taken their place.

For example, Moog used to be the go to for suspension parts but have gone down hill. Mevotech seems to be their replacement BUT on the TTX line (green rubber) and not the other line (blue rubber).

Wix used to be a go to as well for filters but they got bought out and aren't what they used to be. Whoever makes the higher end Purolator filters (Boss & Pure One) and Mobil 1 filters is still pretty good as is K&N and Motorcraft filters.

Brakes, Bendix is still good. So is Motorcraft. There a few others.

Shocks, there a few trusted brands and haven't seemed to have been effected as much as other vehicle parts have been.

So, it's hard to really hard to give you a straight, general answer. You kind of have see who is using what and ask around.

 

[SenorNoob]

>>> A good parts store, will give a good customer an honest opinion, if asked, about the brands that they have. . .

This. I knew there were good people at the local O'Reilly's when one of them told me the cheapest brake pads they had were what you put on a car to sell it with "new brakes". LOL

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

All of you speak about mid grade, high or low quality. I guess what I really want to know is what brands produce what level of quality?

So, when I talk of mid grade or higher, mostly I’m talking about how Autozone does their stuff but it does apply to other brands. Take AZ brake pads… Valuecraft (1yr warranty) is the cheapest. Then it’s Duralast red box (lifetime warranty), Duralast Gold, Duralast Gold C-Max, and sometimes a HD option. Gold is usually my go-to.

Parts quality is another matter and it gets super complicated when you consider the number of times I’ve opened up a “house brand” box and dumped out a name brand part. I’ve even bought two of the same parts at the same time, one is stamped something like Moog and the other isn’t. I suspect a lot of these parts all come from the same factory and it just depends who’s name goes on it for the day.

 

[SenorNoob]

I know that's what Dorman does. I've been in one of the warehouses. Pretty sure they don't actually make anything. I've heard of other places doing the same thing. My own work has several parts that we only do quality control on. Buy from elsewhere, inspect them, and send them on.

 

[Brain75]

I guess I should throw out my #1 option, provided it is a durable steel part or something that can be tested - junkyard. Anything that is basically non-wearing is a no brainer for me, anything wearing well.... if it looks like it has brand new tires on a mangled rear end that's a good candidate for pickin...