wheel bearings

[funkingonutz]

I am going to replace the wheel bearings on my 1995 Ranger XLT 4x4 and I read somewhere here that there is a certain torque setting to torque the end nut to(forgot the name of the nut, its the big one on the end with a cotter pin through it) or else youll burn up the wheel bearings. Could someone tell me the right way to replace the wheel bearings so i don't screw it up.
(Also) Ive never done wheel bearings on a 4 wheel drive truck(ive done them on 2wheel drive S-10's and a Plymouth Acclaim) is there any other steps involved(are the hubs going to be in my way or something... i dont know i sound really stupid right now) Could ya help me out?? Thanks

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, there's no "nut on the end with a cotter pin through it", it has one of two different locknut setups depending on if your truck has automatic, or manual hubs.

Replacing the bearings themselves is basically the same process however.

What setup is yours?

Edit:
N/M, I figured it out from your other post you have automatic hubs.

Remove the hub, then remove the c-clip & washer(s) off the end of the axleshaft (note the order they go if more than one), and pry off the plastic cam actuator. You'll have a large bearing locknut that is held with a locking key residing in the spindle groove. You'll need a large magnet to remove the key, then the locknut should be free to turn (it shouldn't be tight, channellocks or similar will work to turn it). Remove the nut, wheelbearing and rotor.

(while it's apart this far, you probably should pull the spindles off the knuckles to check the condition of the axleshaft u-joints, and the spindle needle bearings)

When you reinstall everything, you need to torque the nut to 35 ft-lbs while spinning the rotor to seat the bearings (the channellocks may not work here though, you may need a 2-3/8" (IIRC) socket for it).
Back it off half-turn, and retighen to 15 INCH-lbs, then reinsert the key, the plastic cam, washer(s) and c-clip, then the hub.

Hope that helps

 

[AllanD]

I'm going to ask a different question...

WHY are you replacing the wheel bearings?

Are you replacing the rotors at the same time?

Do you think the bearings are "loose"?

The bearings in a TTB Ranger (all ranger 4x4's from 1983-97)
are adjustable, not at all like the "cartridge" bearings used in
S10, Jeep Cherokee, Dodge Dakota or '98-up Rangers.

AD

 

[funkingonutz]

I think my passenger side wheel bearing is toast, it whines while im moving, i probably fried it.So im just going to replace bolth of them.

 

[funkingonutz]

I'm going to ask a different question...

WHY are you replacing the wheel bearings?

Are you replacing the rotors at the same time?

Do you think the bearings are "loose"?

The bearings in a TTB Ranger (all ranger 4x4's from 1983-97)
are adjustable, not at all like the "cartridge" bearings used in
S10, Jeep Cherokee, Dodge Dakota or '98-up Rangers.

AD

I think i fried my passenger side wheel bearing (it whines like an electric motor, at least that is what it sounds like)

 

[MAKG]

You have FOUR wheel bearings, and I really would suggest inspecting them first.

What you should do is "repack" them. Clean them off really well, look for pitting, scoring, discoloration, severe wear, and so on, and if they look good, pack them with high temp wheel bearing grease and put them back in.

If the wheel bearing really is the source of the whine, it will be really obviously bad.

While you have the rotor off, take a GOOD look at your rotors and pads. While they may be new, that doesn't mean they haven't been dragging, abused, or even defective. Look for heat damage (cracking on the pad surface, scoring, blue color on the rotor just outside the friction area).

I really don't recommend replacing good parts, as you can introduce problems you didn't have before.

 

[funkingonutz]

yeah im going to pull the wheel bearings and repack them with heavy grease (any recomendations?) and see if it gets any better. Ill inspect the pads and rotors also while im there.