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wheel bearings


There is no torque spec for the rear axle shaft bearings. They get pressed into the axle housing and then axle shaft slides into the housing and rides on the bearings.


Thank you very much

can you give me the torque for tightening the bearings front[/COLOR]

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:
 
"I ask a lot I'm sure, but someone could put an arrow on the c-clip"

I can't put an arrow, a description will have to work. If you look at the end of the shaft, the end thats in the differential, you will see the c-clip. It is about 3mm thick and 10mm wide and shaped like a horse shoe. If you push on the end of the shaft inwards to the center, it will reveal the c-clip, enough that you can pull it out with needle nose pliers or a magnet.

Richard

Edit;
I just read a thread today or maybe yesterday on front bearing install. A search will find it. From what I remember for front bearings;
Tighten inner lock nut with pin facing out to 35 ft/lbs while spinning wheel. Back off and tighten to 35 ft/lbs while spinning wheel [ I'm not sure why do it twice but that was how it was written]. Back off again and tighten to 16 in/lbs, THAT'S INCH POUNDS. Put on washer with holes, if it doesn't fit, flip over and try again. Tighten outer lock nut to 220 - 250 ft/lbs which is more than ford calls for but more than one knowledgeable person has recommended this higher torque.
 
Last edited:
"I ask a lot I'm sure, but someone could put an arrow on the c-clip"

I can't put an arrow, a description will have to work. If you look at the end of the shaft, the end thats in the differential, you will see the c-clip. It is about 3mm thick and 10mm wide and shaped like a horse shoe. If you push on the end of the shaft inwards to the center, it will reveal the c-clip, enough that you can pull it out with needle nose pliers or a magnet.

Richard

Edit;
I just read a thread today or maybe yesterday on front bearing install. A search will find it. From what I remember for front bearings;
Tighten inner lock nut with pin facing out to 35 ft/lbs while spinning wheel. Back off and tighten to 35 ft/lbs while spinning wheel [ I'm not sure why do it twice but that was how it was written]. Back off again and tighten to 16 in/lbs, THAT'S INCH POUNDS. Put on washer with holes, if it doesn't fit, flip over and try again. Tighten outer lock nut to 220 - 250 ft/lbs which is more than ford calls for but more than one knowledgeable person has recommended this higher torque.


:dunno: IN looking I found this.

Initially I tightened the bearings to 20 FOOT pounds while I rotated the rotor... then I backed it off, and tightened it to 20 INCH pounds

This means that I must make a tightening in two to 20 lb
for a total 40 .lb, this is correct ??? or 35 .lb for a total 70 .lb
Can you say Richard please.
I am really sorry for not understanding.
But I, would not make a mistake
:icon_confused::icon_confused:

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:
 
:icon_confused::icon_confused: I wonder.
if indeed the wheel bearings rear are dead ?
inspection technique that me said the front are dead
just the right was dead. outer and inner.
the left are good, replace all bearings both sides anyway

Could you tell me how to do a test to see if they are really dead the rear.
because when I move the wheel everything looks normal.
no games and no suspicious noise



Else
I do not see in the tech library a thread.

Making the correct replacement TIE ROD ENDS.
You have to give me assistance to do this very well


Thank you very much
:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:
 
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The rear axle will have a bit of in and out movement, that is normal of any C-clip style rear axle. It should not have ANY up and down play. if it does the bearing is no good and has more than likely damaged the the axle shaft itself.
 

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