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Wheel bearing help


computersoc

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
121
Transmission
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2001 Ford Ranger RWD 2.5L 4 wheel ABS. I need new wheel bearings. Looking at Timken brand since its $250 for Motorcraft from the dealer.

What do I need to order to press everything in? I watched a video and it looks like a hammer that fits inside the bearing.

What else do I need to order?
1. Timken set 2

2. Timken set 5

3. Timken 9150S Seal


I plan on ordering these brake pads and rotors, not sure if the hubs come with any of the above?

What is a good wheel bearing grease?
 
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I like that red and tacky grease from local auto parts store. Not sure about your parts list. I haven't worked on a ranger that new yet. You'll need two bearings for each wheel and probably just one seal per wheel. You can double check part numbers and prices on Rock Auto. There's also a 5% discount code in the Rock Auto thread down in the vendors part of this forum. You paste the discount code into the "how did you hear about us" block during checkout on their site.
 
I would highly recommend this set or one like it
image_26656.jpg


And a punch set to knock out the old bearing races

image_16240.jpg


This is if you don't have them already. A larger ball peen hammer or a small sledge/engineer's hammer would be good too.
 
New rotors typically have bearing races driven in.... no bearings. If you're buying new bearings... they will come with the outer race. I would drive out the new races that come in the rotor and drive in the new races that come with your new bearing... Matched set.
 
New rotors typically have bearing races driven in.... no bearings. If you're buying new bearings... they will come with the outer race. I would drive out the new races that come in the rotor and drive in the new races that come with your new bearing... Matched set.

Very good point. Forgot that one.
 
That's a HI -VIS set of punches ya got there sandman... they kinda hurt my eyes. I think I needs me a set or two.... lol
 
The races are included in the new rotor and on the new bearing. What happens if I just use the ones on the new rotors since it would save time taking them out?
 
Maybe nothing... Maybe I get to say I told ya so
 
To do that, will I need the first tool that sgtsandman posted? What's the name of the tool?
 
what size are your front rotors? there are 2 sizes listed,,,,,10.2"/260mm and 11.25"/285mm
 
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Not sure, will have to measure. There weren't many choices for front coil spring. I know the results are different for torsion bar.
 
It’s better to use the races that come with the new bearings. They are machines as a set and should match up better and last longer. The ones that come with the rotors should be within tolerance. But they may not be as close as the matched set.
 
That's a HI -VIS set of punches ya got there sandman... they kinda hurt my eyes. I think I needs me a set or two.... lol

Well Sandman walks through life with his eyes half closed. It's not his fault, comes with the name.

The races are included in the new rotor and on the new bearing. What happens if I just use the ones on the new rotors since it would save time taking them out?

Unless you are getting Motorcraft rotors, or some high-end performance brand, don't use the races that come in the rotors. They are often cheap and softer than they should be. They will last a while, years even, but will fail from wear before they should, which if kept greased, is never.

You always want to use the races that come with your bearings, because as said, they will be a matched set. That will give best performance and longevity.


To do that, will I need the first tool that sgtsandman posted? What's the name of the tool?

Yes, you will need a seal and race driver kit. They are not terribly expensive, and good for lots of other things. Like leaving interesting donut shaped marks on your kids' foreheads.
 
Just pick yourself up a nice long drift punch... probably 12 inches long... use that to drive the races out. Most parts stores might even have a seal driver kit to loan. I've also used a suitable sized socket in a pinch. But as adsm said... a seal driver kit isn't a bad investment... they get used often.
 
You joksters will appreciate the bright colored punches when it gets dropped in the engine bay and settles where it’s least accessible and able to be seen place. :p

I just grabbed a picture off the internet. Mine aren’t nearly that bright. More of a school bus yellow. At least where there is still paint on them. LOL

To the OP the kit is called a race driver and/or bearing seal driver kit. If you plan on doing your own work, they are well worth the investment. Like mentioned above, a socket will work if you have one big enough but some of those bearing races and seals get pretty big.
 

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