What was the stock tire size for '93-'97 2.3 4x4 Rangers?

[85_Ranger4x4]

And if you go higher than the 410, your engine is going to be screaming trying to go 70 miles an hour down the road.

National speedlimit was still 55 but yeah, that too.

 

[outatime88]

Consider this.

Obviously, the 2.3 has less power and torque than larger engines. The universal use of the 410 rear seems also obvious to maximize the torque and off-the-line performance of any 2.3 truck, 2wd or 4wd.

Tire size is a personal choice based on what your goals are with that particular truck, your truck, your choice. If you’re 100% concerned with an aggressive appearance that mimics a 4wd, an aggressive all terrain 235 15 is the ticket. If your looking for pulling power, low end torque is probably primary, so a wide low profile tire (225/60-14) will give the best”ratio” between the engine and the pavement, but they may look anemic. It’s obviously about balance, but not what we think, it’s what you desire.

Me, I love playing with many toys, and I worked hard and smart to be able to afford them. I’m definitely into the “image,” but ONLY ONLY ONLY after the performance I need and want, so I want adequate performance from something that looks cool. I’ve realized a lot of the TRS guys definitely are in the “bigger, stronger, faster, shinier” mantra, absolutely nothing wrong with that. My girlfriend’s son is happy with a rusty little trailer behind the kiddie van, and momma makes him paint the hitch every time he uses it. This is the whipped philosophy.

I suggest this if you’re on a budget. You can buy dirt cheap steelies or get them free if you cruise Craigslist and just search around. Then find some almost worn out but legal used tires ($10-20 each) and mount them up and drive around a while. Try a small set and try a big set. It’s usually $10-15 to mount the tires. From the small vs large comparison, you could probably zero in on something in the middle. But try that with a used set too. Then, if you like the balance of ride and performance, spend the money & sell all the used tires and wheels for what the cost you (or keep them for snow tires). Trust me, a balanced set of legal tires on Ranger rims will sell, even if worn. Maybe paint the rims in 3 minutes with black or silver Rustoleum.

Modify this to your needs and memorize it so when your buddies rag you, you can show them your process to get it just right so you don’t end up with $1000 of wheels and tires you don’t like (like them)!!

One last thought: you might be able to fool the minions into thinking your truck is a four-wheel-drive, but anybody with a brain is going to know it’s not. Don’t kill yourself by thinking you can kid everybody. It’ll be much more cool if you make your truck the best truck it can be, maybe a little bit different to draw attention.

& keep doing what you’re doing. It’s called research, it works, it saves time and money. This is fundamentally the right place and people (but if you’re getting your wisdom from me ...).

Hope it helps.

I'm actually the same way, I want performance to go with the look. But as far as performance, I just don't want engine issues with a more stressed engine from larger tires. Being slow isn't too important to me.

I actually have 235/75R15 tires that I put on the truck which currently has 3.73 gears and it caused quite a bit of pinging on inclines. I'm guessing it needs new plugs/wires/coils and has a lot of carbon build up, but the larger tires brought those issues out even more.

I'm honestly also just thinking of keeping it stock and saving myself the headache.

 

[Rick W]

I actually have 235/75R15 tires that I put on the truck which currently has 3.73 gears and it caused quite a bit of pinging on inclines

Is it a stick or automatic? I know an awful lot of guys run to 235s on 373 or lower gears, and I’ve never heard of pinging or performance issues if it just shift properly.

Two thoughts, number one, try doing a hot soak with sea foam. Google it. If your injectors and valves and such are gummed up or covered with varnish, the stuff works magic. You can duplicate the diesel treatment intensity by running your gas tank down to two or 3 gallons and using a whole can, and otherwise following the instructions. If it won’t cranky after that, the worst is just flushing it out with a little ether for just a minute till the fresh gas picks up

The second thought is to write up some specific issues here or in the rain for him, and ask these guys. These guys know more about Fords and Rangers and Broncos then I have a want to know!!!

 

[don4331]

Consider this.

Obviously, the 2.3 has less power and torque than larger engines. The universal use of the 410 rear seems also obvious to maximize the torque and off-the-line performance of any 2.3 truck, 2wd or 4wd.

Just to be clear - 4.10 was exclusive only to the 2.3/4x4*. With 2wd, you could get 2.3 with 3.73s or 4.10s in both SCab and RC.

Also note, Ford did build Rangers with 4.56 7.5" rear axles. I believe they were installed in 4x2 Trailhead - Trailhead had 245/75R16s and payload package #2.

I keep thinking the cross pin for the 4.56 gears in rear is notched for Ford. And you have to install the spider gears and pin before you install the ring gear on the carrier. And after the carrier is installed rotated the pin to install the C-clips and then rotated to final position to be bolted in place. For the front, Ford never offered anything below 4.10s, but as you don't need to worry about C-clips in the front, you load up the carrier with spider gear, pin the pin, and install into axle. Then hold your mouth just right to get the axle to install into the housing.​

outatime88

Are you trying to clone what the factory was building like the fake Boss 302 Mustang. Or are you building something for your personal enjoyment?

Because if you are building a factory clone, you would install a Dana 28 front axle with single piston brakes/7.5" rear axle and 9" drums. While if you are building one for personal enjoyment, you would more likely use Dana 35 front with the dual piston caliper and maybe 8.8 rear with 10" drums (or an Explorer rear axle with discs).

25 years ago, 215/75R15 weren't considered small - my '68 F-100 4x4 with HD payload package had G78-15s; G78-15s are same size as 215/75R15s. Finding a 2.3/4x4 Ranger built by Ford with anything but the smallest tire would be a unicorn. The 2.3 Ranger was the loss leader - we can sell you a 4x4 for only $xxx, and it would have been as base of a Ranger, aka inexpensive, as it could have been ordered in, which would mean 215/75R15s. You might have got someone like myself, who special ordered his Ranger exactly how he wanted it and included larger tires, but it wouldn't have been the std order.

*2.3/auto needs 4.10s to tow any trailer, but there are 2.3/autos with 3.73, you just can't tow a trailer.

 

[MikeG]

I had never heard of the 'trailhead' option, interesting.

 

[Rick W]

Like I said (i.e. @don4331) there are guys in here who know a lot more then me

 

[racsan]

Ive had a few 2.3 2wd’s with 5-speed manuals, most came with 14’s and 3.73’s , the 94 I drive now came with 3.45’s (I swapped out the rear axle for a 4.10) The 94 came with 225/70/14’s , it now runs 225/70/15’s in winter and 235/75/15’s for summer. My 93 4x4 was a supercab 4x4 with 3.73’s and 235/75/15 tires (265-15’s were a option, I think thats the same as a 31-10.50-15) A 2.3 even with lower gears just doesnt have alot of tourque, yes I can tow now but even if if I put the original 225/14’s on its not ideal (plus its screaming to do 60 with those tiny tires) with the 225/15’s im at about 2400 rpm at 55 in 5th. Im not sure where the rpms would be with 3.45’s (didnt have a tach then) but the 93 with 3.73’s turned about 2,000 in 5th @ 55mph.

 

[outatime88]

Just to be clear - 4.10 was exclusive only to the 2.3/4x4*. With 2wd, you could get 2.3 with 3.73s or 4.10s in both SCab and RC.

Also note, Ford did build Rangers with 4.56 7.5" rear axles. I believe they were installed in 4x2 Trailhead - Trailhead had 245/75R16s and payload package #2.

I keep thinking the cross pin for the 4.56 gears in rear is notched for Ford. And you have to install the spider gears and pin before you install the ring gear on the carrier. And after the carrier is installed rotated the pin to install the C-clips and then rotated to final position to be bolted in place. For the front, Ford never offered anything below 4.10s, but as you don't need to worry about C-clips in the front, you load up the carrier with spider gear, pin the pin, and install into axle. Then hold your mouth just right to get the axle to install into the housing.​

outatime88

Are you trying to clone what the factory was building like the fake Boss 302 Mustang. Or are you building something for your personal enjoyment?

Because if you are building a factory clone, you would install a Dana 28 front axle with single piston brakes/7.5" rear axle and 9" drums. While if you are building one for personal enjoyment, you would more likely use Dana 35 front with the dual piston caliper and maybe 8.8 rear with 10" drums (or an Explorer rear axle with discs).

25 years ago, 215/75R15 weren't considered small - my '68 F-100 4x4 with HD payload package had G78-15s; G78-15s are same size as 215/75R15s. Finding a 2.3/4x4 Ranger built by Ford with anything but the smallest tire would be a unicorn. The 2.3 Ranger was the loss leader - we can sell you a 4x4 for only $xxx, and it would have been as base of a Ranger, aka inexpensive, as it could have been ordered in, which would mean 215/75R15s. You might have got someone like myself, who special ordered his Ranger exactly how he wanted it and included larger tires, but it wouldn't have been the std order.

*2.3/auto needs 4.10s to tow any trailer, but there are 2.3/autos with 3.73, you just can't tow a trailer.

Just for personal enjoyment. I don't plan on doing anything else than swap the rear axle, put 235's on, and level the front. My mind changes every other day though whether I'll do that or just leave it stock. I hate to spend money when I feel like something else is going to break at any moment when I'm driving. I bought the truck a year ago and it sat for many years before that without any TLC.

Is it a stick or automatic? I know an awful lot of guys run to 235s on 373 or lower gears, and I’ve never heard of pinging or performance issues if it just shift properly.

Two thoughts, number one, try doing a hot soak with sea foam. Google it. If your injectors and valves and such are gummed up or covered with varnish, the stuff works magic. You can duplicate the diesel treatment intensity by running your gas tank down to two or 3 gallons and using a whole can, and otherwise following the instructions. If it won’t cranky after that, the worst is just flushing it out with a little ether for just a minute till the fresh gas picks up

The second thought is to write up some specific issues here or in the rain for him, and ask these guys. These guys know more about Fords and Rangers and Broncos then I have a want to know!!!

It's manual. I did the seafoam method and it had no effect. Barely any junk came out the exhaust, even though I've seen videos where they smoke out the whole street. I might try the spray seafoam in the intake next. Cleaning my MAF sensor was the most effective, which made it go from pinging a bit on premium fuel to no pinging with premium, but if I switch to regular fuel the pinging comes back.

 

[MikeG]

Seafoam in the gas tank won't make much smoke, if any.

Seafoam in the intake WILL make an enormous cloud of white smoke.

 

[Rick W]

The ChemE in me tells me running it through with the gas probably won’t do much, especially on built up goo, unless you use it constantly over a long time. It’s sort of diesel based, the thicker diesel being a good vehicle to carry the cleaning chemicals and hold them in place to do their work. So, if you put it in concentrated in an almost empty gas tank, or pour it in the manifold, all the smoke is the engine burning up that diesel base.

Like I said before, it won’t hurt anything even if it stalls your truck. You just have to run the engine with a little either help long enough to get it all out. The “hot soak“ is a method where you run the engine long enough to get it into the fuel system everywhere when the engine is hot already, and you shut the engine off and let it do its work. Then, when you start it up, it should take all varnish and goo with it, but you may need the ether assist to run it out. Usually, I warm the engine up, run long enough to spread it around, and run that stuff out, and shut it off again, repeat, repeat. If it hasn’t been cleaned in many miles, this spreads the effectiveness, or you may even want to use a couple or three cans in the process over a week or two.

At $6-7 per can, it’s a lot less than anything you can do with a wrench, screwdriver or a meter.

My 2 cents, hope it helps!

 

[JohnnyO]

But was the 235 tire package an option for the 2.3L 4x4? I know it came with only 4.10 gearing so I feel like that would mean it could only come with one specific tire size as there was only one gear ratio available. I could see there being multiple options for the 3.0 or 4.0 since there were more ratio options, but I want to know if it was available for the 4 cylinder.

Memory is fuzzy but I'm pretty sure 4.10 gears and 215/75-15 tires were all that was available on the 4 cyl 4x4. Also I'm pretty sure you couldn't get an automatic with the 4 cyl and 4x4. 14" wheels were never put on 4x4's from the factory, only 15".

Also note, Ford did build Rangers with 4.56 7.5" rear axles. I believe they were installed in 4x2 Trailhead - Trailhead had 245/75R16s and payload package #2.

I believe back in the 80's or early 90's you could get factory 4.56 gears in a Chassis-Cab with the payload package also.

 

[Rick W]

Another thought: you can google “tire size calculator” or “tire size comparison” and you’ll get a page where you can enter two tire sizes and it will tell you the difference in height, width, diameter, wall height, tread width, etc., etc.

I use tiresize.com, then go to “tire size comparison“

hope it helps

 

[racsan]

I use this site for my tire size comparisons

Tire Size Calculator - Compare Tire Sizes | Tacoma World

Tire size calculator compares diameter, width, circumference and speedometer differences for any two tire sizes. Supports tire sizes in metric and inches.

www.tacomaworld.com

 

[G8orFord]

I use this site for my tire size comparisons

Tire Size Calculator - Compare Tire Sizes | Tacoma World

Tire size calculator compares diameter, width, circumference and speedometer differences for any two tire sizes. Supports tire sizes in metric and inches.

www.tacomaworld.com

I wrote my own spreadsheet. It also gives theoretical speeds at different RPM for various transmissions and axle ratios in each gear.

 

[outatime88]

So I did the gear ratio calculator and it shows that going from stock tire size to the 235's would require the 4.10 ratio to be the same.

Interestingly I found that a '95 2.3 4x4 that had a door sticker in its pictures and it shows 215/75/15 as the stock size (so here's the answer to my original question).

If the calculator says 4.10 for 235/75R15 from 225/70R14, then why were 215/75R15's made the stock size for 4x4's? My truck already revs pretty high at 65 mph on the highway with the 14's, so if I went with 4.10 gears wouldn't 215's be too small? I feel like it would rev EVEN higher.