What to replace my broken leaf spring with

[a2thy]

I have a '97 Mazda B2300 2wd, and just found the middle leaf to be broken in half on the right side. I don't know how long it's been like this, but I assume it's not safe to drive it in this condition. I was just going to replace it with another leaf spring from either a b series pickup or a ranger, but I'm thinking there may be better options. I don't really care about increasing the load capacity as I never even come close to pushing the trucks max payload, but ride comfort is important to me, as this is my daily driver. I wouldn't mind a slight lift as a result of this repair, but that's not important either. I just want some replacement leaf springs that would give me a smoother ride. It seems like my truck just wants to bounce all over the road the way it is now, and I'd like to do something to help reduce that. Any ideas?

 

[bilzy7]

If you'd like a diff leaf try explorer springs, it's just mounted to bottom of explorer axle as Ranger is mounted to top, only thing to change. You can always play mix n match with leaves to adjust height/stiffness.
Another option is find 63 inch chevy leaves, but that will require a little bit more work as long as you don't mind. Do a search for "63 chevy leaf" and there are so many threads on it showing height gain.
Third option, ranger or explorer leaves and get belltech 6400 shackles. The shackles are longer and will increase ride height 1 1/2 - 2 inches on stock leaves, I would assume don't quote me that with explorer it'll be more.

 

[bilzy7]

Ohh and food for thought, I haven't checked why but mine also does that and it seems more since I installed belltechs, on highway I will hit a nice bump at about 70 and my rear end is no where near as stiff as my front as my torsion bars are cranked. But I bounces sometimes scary to the side.
I believe my problem is because one torsion bar bolt is stuck and not in as much as other it sets up rear end for a slight sideways bounce. I guess worth checking out if it relates to your dangerous bounce or if it's your cracked leaf.

 

[bilzy7]

You checked your sway bars? Far as sideways roll may be it. BTW like your crazy family photo, cute wife.

 

[a2thy]

I found the tech article for the 63 inch chevy leafs and I think I'm going to go that route. It sounds like exactly what I'm looking for in terms of improved ride comfort and a slight lift. I'm guessing that the rear hanger doesn't have to be moved for this swap? Article also says it should lift the rear about 3 inches. You think it would look funny if I didn't lift the front right away?

I know what you mean about hitting bumps at high speeds. We have bad frost heaves everywhere up here, and they always seem to come out of nowhere and make me think I'm going to lose control and roll my truck.

Haha yeah, I love my Gary Busey family pic. Thanks for all your help, I'll start this project as soon as I get all the parts together.

 

[a2thy]

I know it's been a while, but I'm going to try to start this project soon. I have nearly everything I need and I have a pretty good understanding of what I need to do based on what I read in the tech articles. I do however have a few questions.

I want to lift the front about 3 inches to match the lift in the rear, would I be able to achieve this with two F-150 coil spacers combined with a few washers? (2.3 liter, manual tranny, extended cab)

If so, how many? if not, what would be a better solution?

And lastly, would longer front shocks be necessary? and if so, what brand and type should I get?

 

[bobbywalter]

for that i would run e or f 150 arms and relocate the radius arm bracket rearward and run the 3+ adj camber bushings.


its the easiest cheapest way i know to get workable 3 in lift.

 

[a2thy]

Just trying to make sure I understand correctly:
I will need to replace my radius arms with those from either an F-150 or an E-150. Relocate the radius arm bracket from the front of the I-beam axle to the rear of it. And install 3"+ adjustable camber bushings instead of spacers or washers.
Is this right?

 

[bobbywalter]

Just trying to make sure I understand correctly:
I will need to replace my radius arms with those from either an F-150 or an E-150. Relocate the radius arm bracket from the front of the I-beam axle to the rear of it. And install 3"+ adjustable camber bushings instead of spacers or washers.
Is this right?

this guy found a decent deal, whether they are done right or not is a different story...

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113171


if your truck is stock, your radius arm brackets are quite a bit forward of the front cab mounts...what you do is remove the rivets from the front cab mounts and use the rear lower hole as a guide to mount the radius arms brackets and drill 3 new holes for the brackets....

depending on what arms you use you need to shim the arms forward a bit the shorter arms require drilling four new holes and one is right next to the lower body mount bracket instead of using it...

look at the brackets and picture them slid back about 3 inches, it should be patently obvious what needs to be done....and take the center bolts loose too as it needs to be loose so it settles right.

 

[a2thy]

Ok, I get what you're saying now. What years would the donor F-150 need to be? Are longer shocks necessary?

 

[bobbywalter]

Ok, I get what you're saying now. What years would the donor F-150 need to be? Are longer shocks necessary?

yes and no.


the 150 shock mounts are on top of the arm.


this actually limits travel depending on specific setup to near stock.


its a variance of compromise when on the cheap.

one issue can be solved and causes 3 others


say, some e arms with a piece of box cut to fit a shock mount on the outside of the arm..or an inverted bolt..that requires less backspacing and not friendly with stock wheels as the shock gets rubbed a bit more then a stock d35 setup.

you can play around a bit to make the best of it...not a big deal for me but worth mentioning i think....

starting to think i need to get another ttb truck and make my kids put pics up. if madi ends up with a ttb truck i can make sure that happens.

 

[mp3deviant721]

You are going to be cutting it close with the 3" lift. I got 2.5" out of mine, almost could not align it. If you get adjustable camber/caster bushings, you will be able to squeeze 3 degrees of camber adjustment with the right caster adjustment. Reason being is that the knuckle will contact the i-beam at about 2 degrees negative camber. By adjusting the caster you will be able to get about another degree to allow alignment of a 2.5" lift. You can run the 3" lift but your truck might look pigeon footed even after you align it. You can try it. And if it does work, let me know, I'm looking to squeeze another .5" of lift out of mine.

BTW, I'm running a welded washer spacer on mine, works the best to lift your truck.

I forgot to add that if you still have your stock shocks on, you will need longer shocks, my old shocks barely fit. I used the Monro-Matic Plus 32381. The vehicle I used to get that info was a 1993 Ford F-150, 4.9, with dual shocks. You want to get the front shock off the factory dual shock set up. If you lift the rear too, you will need rear 4x4 Ranger shocks, I believe they are about 3" longer than the rear 2wd shocks.

 

[bobbywalter]

You are going to be cutting it close with the 3" lift. I got 2.5" out of mine, almost could not align it. If you get adjustable camber/caster bushings, you will be able to squeeze 3 degrees of camber adjustment with the right caster adjustment. Reason being is that the knuckle will contact the i-beam at about 2 degrees negative camber. By adjusting the caster you will be able to get about another degree to allow alignment of a 2.5" lift. You can run the 3" lift but your truck might look pigeon footed even after you align it. You can try it. And if it does work, let me know, I'm looking to squeeze another .5" of lift out of mine.

BTW, I'm running a welded washer spacer on mine, works the best to lift your truck.

I forgot to add that if you still have your stock shocks on, you will need longer shocks, my old shocks barely fit. I used the Monro-Matic Plus 32381. The vehicle I used to get that info was a 1993 Ford F-150, 4.9, with dual shocks. You want to get the front shock off the factory dual shock set up. If you lift the rear too, you will need rear 4x4 Ranger shocks, I believe they are about 3" longer than the rear 2wd shocks.

i took the 2wd issue for granted on this, my suggestion was based on 4x4.



though the measure of 3 in of lift is only a general, and based on a start of x between the beam and frame and ending with y. i know i have lifted 2wd right at 3 inches with v8's with this method, ttb 150 used coils and things worked well. i do not remember there being any grinding and clearancing in that particular situation...and that was some time ago, but that is something that is usually done..

 

[mp3deviant721]

I guess you ended up being lucky not having to do any modifications to lift that much, but on mine, I know I will have to. Oh well, that's the way things go sometimes.

 

[a2thy]

I'm trying to keep up with what you guys are saying, but the more I read, the harder it is for me to picture all of this. I should also note that I'm running 15" ranger wheels with 235/75R15 tires, not the stock 14's.

I'm also thinking that I may want to raise the front even more to compensate for the factory 1.5" difference between the front and rear. Would it be possible to use F-150 coil springs instead of washers/spacers to achieve this? If so, would it make my truck too stiff for comfort on the street? I know I'd have to bend some of the mounting tabs on the coil bucket to make them fit, if I wanted to go this route.