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what to look for Bronco II


spaz1879

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2008
Messages
183
City
new jersey
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
I have been on this site for a while and have owned my 88 ranger for some time but i think its motor is going. :annoyed: but in my search for another vehicle i have come across and 87 brocnoII. I was wondering if there are some know things that go wrong it has the 2.9 and seems pretty much stock it has a4ld from what ive seen. i have read on here they are not a good trans, or are they just prone to breaking while offroading? also when i was looking over it i noticed that the ac compressor clutch kept catching every 15 seconds or so but in even intervals is this normal? (my 88 didnt have ac)

Thanks for helping me with any problems that you know or had with your bronco II
 
2.9l are prone to cracking heads, so check the color of the oil (look for milky consistency), and check the antifreeze for color and overall condition of the cooling system. the a4ld is what it is, but most problems are due to overheating. check the fluid level and color (and smell-should smell like plastic, not burnt food), and if it looks good then add an external cooler if you get it. check the leaf spring hangers and shackles and also the coil spring towers for rust outs. hope this gives you somewhere to start. if you havent already seen this article, give it a look over http://www.therangerstation.com/resources/How_To_Buy.html
 
so if the coolant has a rust looking hue to it that means cracked heads mostlikly?
 
rusty looking coolant means that the cooling system has been neglected and most likely the radiator is also suffering corrosion which if bad enough will be visible on the fins of the radiator. a neglected cooling system means that other parts of the cooling system will most likely also be in poor condition which puts you closer to the possibilty of a cooling system failure which could result in cracking a head. if the oil is milky looking, then you have a cracked head or have taken on water somehow.
 
I don't know about the B II specifically but it is normal for the A/C compressor to cycle on and off in defrost mode and normal A/C mode. Not sure if it has a "Max A/C" setting but it may not cycle off in this mode or at least not as often or as long of an off cycle.
By the description of the even intervals I'd say it's operating normally...

Mike
 
Also check the rear of the body tub under the rear panel where the hatch shuts. They like to rot out right there, mostly because of crap collecting in the lower part of the taillight pocket. IF it is rotted out right there, you can replace the panel with one from an X, with a little trimming it fits perfectly.
 
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the AC clutch cycling on and off is normal, when it cycles on it builds pressure till i certian temp is reached then it cycles off, then repeat.
+1 on the trany cooler. that or swap it out all together.
 
the AC clutch cycling on and off is normal, when it cycles on it builds pressure till i certian temp is reached then it cycles off, then repeat.
+1 on the trany cooler. that or swap it out all together.

I did the A4LD to FM-145 swap on my truck and it was totally worth it. If your Ranger is all manual you can swap your pedals, clutch system, tranny and transfer case over to the B2.

Good luck!!

Ben
 
if the refrigerant is low it should stay cycled on longer, get a thermometer and check the temp at the center vent with the AC on. it should be around 40* F. but that temp depends on the outside temp and humidity. so the higher the outside temp and humidity the higher the temp at the vent. also it probably uses R-12 which is around $200 a pound and you cant legaly buy it with out a liscence. if the refrigerant is low then it would have to be recharged by a pro with a liscence. or converted to R-134A.
 
all i got to say is that i had to replace 6 a4ld's in my 90 b2 in 4months of driveing on the road....
 

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