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what should i do


bmxnick7

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2007
Messages
80
Age
36
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
ok so heres my deal i have an 89 ranger 2wd long bed, it had a blown 2.9, i picked it up for 150 bucks. i am just looking to make it faster. i was considering a 5.0 swap, or a 4.0. what would you suggest. and for the 5.0 i was considering going carbarated, just because i dont want to have to rewire it, truck is an auto and is going to stay auto. so far my parts list consists of an 8.8 rear end. and i already have a 5.0 out of an 89 mustang.
 
5.0 would be cooler than a 4.0 cause they didnt come stock with it like some 4.0 Rangers and then add flowmasters
 
what wiring does carb require, and will the gauges work
 
carb engine needs starter wiring, coil wiring, and charging, thats it

gauges will not work. well atleast the speedo and tach, and charging, and oil pressure wont work.
 
With the gauges, make sure you are using the correct sending units. All of mine work except the 4x4 light(which you won't have), because the T-case I used (EB) doesn't have it.
 
ok so, in order to get the gauges to work, i need to get the correct sending units, is there any wiring diagrams for a carb 302, i thought i read some where that the stock alt wiring will work, so the stock starter solinoid wont work.
 
ok so, in order to get the gauges to work, i need to get the correct sending units, is there any wiring diagrams for a carb 302, i thought i read some where that the stock alt wiring will work, so the stock starter solinoid wont work.

yes it will. its the same.
 
gauges will not work. well atleast the speedo and tach, and charging, and oil pressure wont work.

If you can bolt in the engine, you can make all the gauges work.
You can use all your stock senders on the new engine.
There are articles on the various Ranger sites on how to make your stock Tach work. It's really easy on '95 and newer. Speedometer has nothing to do with the engine, neither does the charging system. Water temp and oil pressure gauges are one wire each off the senders mounted to the engine.

The carbed motor requires pretty much the same wiring as an EFI motor.
A Harwood manual for your year will let the wiring be paint-by-numbers easy.
 
Last edited:
If you can bolt in the engine, you can make all the gauges work.
You can use all your stock senders on the new engine.
There are articles on the various Ranger sites on how to make your stock Tach work. It's really easy on '95 and newer. Speedometer has nothing to do with the engine, neither does the charging system. Water temp and oil pressure gauges are one wire each off the senders mounted to the engine.

The carbed motor requires pretty much the same wiring as an EFI motor.
A Harwood manual for your year will let the wiring be paint-by-numbers easy.

IF HES SWAPPING THE ENGINE, THEN HE IS SWAPPING THE TRANS.

he asked what gauges would work, a speedometer is a gauge, and the gear on the end of the cable will be different for the new trans.

and yes, he could swap new senders into the engine, but he needs to get the senders for the engine he is putting in.

and efi takes same wiring as carb. :bsflag: efi wiring is not a good swap for those who never did one before. you need a computer, the whole harness, the injectors, and electric fuel pump, fuel regulators, and so on,

thats an extra day or two of wiring and looking through a diagrahm.

carb is the way to go for a first time engine swap.
 
IF HES SWAPPING THE ENGINE, THEN HE IS SWAPPING THE TRANS.

he asked what gauges would work, a speedometer is a gauge, and the gear on the end of the cable will be different for the new trans.

and yes, he could swap new senders into the engine, but he needs to get the senders for the engine he is putting in.

and efi takes same wiring as carb. :bsflag: efi wiring is not a good swap for those who never did one before. you need a computer, the whole harness, the injectors, and electric fuel pump, fuel regulators, and so on,

thats an extra day or two of wiring and looking through a diagrahm.

carb is the way to go for a first time engine swap.

Calm down, we're all in this together. Maybe your Chevy trans won't bolt up to your speedometer, but his Ford one sure will.

The V8 intake (carbed or EFI) does not know whether it's holding a sender intended for a Mustang or his '89 Ranger. But his dash gauge may very well be happier with the Ranger sending unit.

The typical Mustang EFI setup is almost completely stand alone. A couple constant power, a couple switched power, a few grounds. If his truck is already EFI, the fuel pump relays, etc., are just reused. It's no more work than finding those same connections for a carbed setup.

The fuel pressure regulator on the Ford EFI is mounted on the fuel rails, it take a vacuum line off the intake manifold, about 5" away, and will likely already be present for anyone doing this. You carb setup will possible require a stand alone FPR if swapping a carb into an EFI Ranger.

Feel free to give opinions and advice, it all helps people figure out what they want. I'm familiar with a carb setup. Until you familiarize yourself with EFI, please wait a little longer before judging my opinions.

To the original poster, not a damn thing wrong with a carb setup, just wanted it to be clear one way is not necessarily cheaper or easier.
 
i have a complete 5.0 out of an 89 mustang upper lower intake tb and spacer clutch and flywheel, water pump, pretty much the complete engine, i have the injectors too.

i was shopping ofr rear ends todaY AND called a local junkyard, and he gave me 2 axel codes out of 2 4x4 rangers, and they were 86 and 87, that is a 7.5 inch rear end, did 4x4 rangers come with 7.5. because i didnt think so
 
Any 4.0L came with a 8.8 rear end, don't matter what drive train. JY guys is looking at what you have, not what you want.
Dave
 
Calm down, we're all in this together. Maybe your Chevy trans won't bolt up to your speedometer, but his Ford one sure will.

The V8 intake (carbed or EFI) does not know whether it's holding a sender intended for a Mustang or his '89 Ranger. But his dash gauge may very well be happier with the Ranger sending unit.

The typical Mustang EFI setup is almost completely stand alone. A couple constant power, a couple switched power, a few grounds. If his truck is already EFI, the fuel pump relays, etc., are just reused. It's no more work than finding those same connections for a carbed setup.

The fuel pressure regulator on the Ford EFI is mounted on the fuel rails, it take a vacuum line off the intake manifold, about 5" away, and will likely already be present for anyone doing this. You carb setup will possible require a stand alone FPR if swapping a carb into an EFI Ranger.

Feel free to give opinions and advice, it all helps people figure out what they want. I'm familiar with a carb setup. Until you familiarize yourself with EFI, please wait a little longer before judging my opinions.

To the original poster, not a damn thing wrong with a carb setup, just wanted it to be clear one way is not necessarily cheaper or easier.

i know plenty about fi setups, i deal with them weekly thank you.
 
do i neeed a 8.8 or will my 7.5 work for now, i was going to go with the explorer axle
 
7.5 will be fine if you dont beat the crap outta it.

if uve got a heavy right foot, then i would do a 8.8,

if you do the 8.8 swap, make sure to get the one with the 3:73 traction loc.
 

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