What oil do you use?

[the_mag221]

anybody ever tried to run their 2,9l v6 cologne engine on some 5w-20 ?

 

[Mac]

Oil brand does not really matter. Changing it regularly is 1000x more important than what brand you use. If the oil meets the API SM spec (and pretty much every oil does, even Autozone),
The brand is usually the LAST thing I consider when buying oil. When I buy oil, my priorities are:
1. viscosity. Go with what Ford says (5w30)
2. type of oil (conventional, synthetic, syn blend) See paragraph above. I personally use synthetic in everything I own, even my lawnmower. It's not that much more than conventional, and gives me extra peace of mind.
3. Price. Whatever's cheapest for me.

That really sums it up

I mean just look at the DIVERSITY in oil use with the most common last comment being ( I HAVEN'T HAD ANY PROBLEMS )

One can safely say in MOST situations the BRAND of oil you are using is IRRELEVANT as long as you keep it changed when you are suppose to and hey if you are so anal that you think changing it every 2,500 or 3,000 miles will keep your truck healthier well, then, that's ok too after all it's your time and money.

40 years of driving and never lost a motor because of oil problems

...and then it goes to the refineries where the different companies refine it and put in about a dozen different additives, which is what makes each brand different.

I don't believe the refineriers have much to do with adding any additves. Maybe they do have seperate tanks for each customer

Someone else said something about the new oils having little zinc in them, that's true. That only affects flat tappet cams for the first 5000 miles, feel free to change after that. So much crap info out there that people follow as gosple and swear by it. You youngens weren't around when oil filters were an option.
Dave

 

[adsm08]

anybody ever tried to run their 2,9l v6 cologne engine on some 5w-20 ?

I would not try that. If you understand what the numbers mean you will realize that 5-20 is about half as thick as it should be, to maintain proper pressure in a 2.9, an engine that already has oil system and pressure issues.

You youngens weren't around when oil filters were an option.

No, but I do remember hearing something about GM trying some sort of detergent-free oil that you never had to change.

 

[the_mag221]

I would not try that. If you understand what the numbers mean you will realize that 5-20 is about half as thick as it should be, at all temps, to maintain proper pressure in a 2.9, an engine that already has oil system and pressure issues.

What are these common issues ? i never heard about them if you could point me a link... :S


Fact

Signature Series 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil (ALM)

Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
8.8

Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
50.5


Signature Series 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (ASL)

Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
10.5

Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
60.3 ¸

Those number are from amsoil.com, if you look number their ain't a really big difference since :

The thickness of moving oil is measured in centiStokes or cS. Most engines want the oil viscosity to be around 10 cS at normal operating temperature. The really thick multi-grade oils have a viscosity of 20 cS at operating temperature. One is not twice as thick as the other, it is only 10 cS thicker.

As we increase the heat from 212°F to 302°F the most commonly recommended oil thins from 10 cS to 3 cS. The thicker oil drops from 20 cS to 4 cS. Note that in a very hot engine the difference between the two oils is now only 1 – 2 cS. In other words they have about the same thickness. There is little advantage to a thicker based oil as a 20W-50 at very high temperatures. No, the 4 cS oil is not twice as thick as the 2 or 3 cS oil. This difference is almost insignificant. quote from bob is the oil guy ( http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-104/ )



I'm saying all this because, i really want an oil that has the lowest viscosity at ambiant temperature to reduce engine wear at startup ( because 90% of all the engine wear occur at startup ), since i live in a really cold climate ( average of 0f (-18C) during winter ), but i don't know want kind of differance will make a 8,8Cst 20 grade oil in my motor instead of 10,6cst 30 grade oil at operating temperature ( 212F), and i just want to know if somebody already destroy it's engine on some 20 grade oil so i don't have to do it.

Because oil is what really matter

 

[adsm08]

Ok, first, all my posts are made with the assumption of a climate similar to what would be found between Georgia and NY, unless I am given information that tells me otherwise.

Second, you aren't aware of the oil system issues in the 2.9? The bad design of the lifters that keeps everything trapped there including air and making them hard to pump up (the 2.9 tick), the fact that pressure in the whole system is overly dependent on the cam bearings.

At those temps I would run a 5W-30 or 0W-30, but I would keep the 30. It will get you that low viscosity at startup that you seek but keep the proper level at operating temp.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-102/

 

[Andy D]

I switch to 10 w 40 in the 528s for winter. I can start them at -15f . They run 20w 50 above 32 f. So 5 w 30 should be fine . I favor thicker oil in older engines. If I start getting vibes that the 4.0 is getting noisy, I will go to 10 w 30 in a NY minute. 5 w oil is a way to add .1 MPG for helping CAFE stats . This is the main reason Ranger died, low MPG. Right now, it is running on Auto Zone 5 w 30 dino. That I put in back in March with an STP filter. It hasnt really used oil, once the top pint went away. I've been hanging on BITOG since 04. I know what works and what doesn't matter. And there are guys that will tell you just the opposite and it works for them too . I dont buy name brand oil unless it is on sale. Most of my cars have consumed oil, so I use cheap stuff and keep qts in the trunk. The latest cars use very little oil.
The 4.0 runs cool and I will change it when it is a yr old. Prolly with less than 4 k miles on it.

 

[adsm08]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-102/

10W-30 isn't any thicker once it gets warm.

 

[snake]

Kinda hard to find, but motorcraft now makes full synthetic oil, and that's what I've been running in the ecoboost since new with motorcraft filter. Running full syn because of the turbos/additional heat. Oil does get nastier than it did on the 4.0 ranger with the same drain intervals, 5K.

But to the original poster, you can swap it over, it may leak for a bit. Case in point, had a 91 mazda truck, swapped it over at 90K. It did start leaking out of the rear main for a few months and stopped. I bought the seal when it was leaking, and then kept it for when it needed a clutch later on down the line since it stopped. I used to do 3K changes with castrol dino, it burned a quart at 2500 and was getting skanky at 3K. Switched it over to full syn, same brand and weight and it went 6500 before it used a quart- the oil started getting skanky at 8K so I moved to change intervals over to 8. This might sound like BS but it is the gospel, I keep good records and watch things closely...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

40 years of driving and never lost a motor because of oil problems

I have seen quite a few oil problems.

Either not enough oil in it or too much fuel and/or antifreeze in the oil.

 

[shane96ranger]

I have seen quite a few oil problems.

Either not enough oil in it or too much fuel and/or antifreeze in the oil.

My buddy has an 09 Dodge in his shop right now. The trans was full of water when he opened it up. For some reason it didn't like that.

Sent from a Commodore 64 using a 300 baud modem

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

My buddy has an 09 Dodge in his shop right now. The trans was full of water when he opened it up. For some reason it didn't like that.

Sent from a Commodore 64 using a 300 baud modem

I have a John Deere 4640 sitting right out side my door that didn't like the aftercooler leaking and filling the engine full of water/coolant. Just sitting (luckily) it hydrolocked and wouldn't crank over.

Toasted all the rod and main bearings though.

For the record it also has 9-08 scratched on the oil filter as well.