What hose is this? (B2300)

[JuniorMDB]

Sorry if this is not the right forum, but I have just purchased a 2006 Mazda B2300 and there was a known vacuum leak pointed out by the original owner. It has been wrapped in duct tape, but was still leaking. I was looking at it the other day because it seems to be whats causing the lean bank code I am getting and now it is leaking a lot. Seems to make the car surge and stutter now while accelerating. I want to replace this hose, but am trying to figure out what hose it is. I have attached some pictures, you can see the tape and I have circled it. This is the back of the intake manifold.

 

[Dirtman]

Hard to tell from the pic but I THINK that is the PCV hose. A 2006 b2300 would have the 2.3 duratec engine. The PCV runs from the lower side of the engine block on the drivers side to the rear (firewall) side of the upper intake manifold. Its aprox 5/8 internal diameter and aprox 1" outer diameter.

If you take a pic a bit farther back I could get a more definitive look. My truck has the same engine but is covered in snow at the moment lol.

If in fact that is the PCV hose. Do yourself a favor and just buy a 5 foot length of 5/8"/16mm I.D silicone hose. The OEM peice is a mix of brittle plastic, rubber, and foam. Its a pain to re-attach, breaks too easy, and ford will charge you a fortune. The silicone hose can be routed much easier and cost a ton less.

 

[Ranger850]

I'm shocked that the duct tape didn't fix that vacuum leak. It usually works every time. (Sarcasm)

 

[JuniorMDB]

I also think its the pcv hose. I went into one of the work trucks that happens to be a 2008 B2300 and took some more pictures that I have attached. The hose appears to be only about 4 inches long and then has another clamp. That was hard to see on mine through the duct tape. I also attached two more photos of my truck that show where in the engine bay these photos are located.

Please let me know if you need anymore photos, but it appears to be a little top connecter piece. I have circled the L fitting that the hose is attached to and a photo with the ends marked in red so you can see its the hose behind the other ones.

 

[Dirtman]

Yea, thats the pcv line. It goes from soft line to hard plastic then back to soft line. Its a nightmare. I held back my duck tape mocking unlike... Some people...

Spend the time to fix if right, get a new pcv valve and like i said run new silicone line. The oem setup is garbage.

Tomorrow I'll take a pic of my setup for you.

It's extremely important to get this fixed, not only does it create a vacuum leak but having the pcv system disabled can lead to oil leaks and any number of poor running conditions.

 

[JuniorMDB]

Yea, thats the pcv line. It goes from soft line to hard plastic then back to soft line. Its a nightmare. I held back my duck tape mocking unlike... Some people...

Spend the time to fix if right, get a new pcv valve and like i said run new silicone line. The oem setup is garbage.

Tomorrow I'll take a pic of my setup for you.

It's extremely important to get this fixed, not only does it create a vacuum leak but having the pcv system disabled can lead to oil leaks and any number of poor running conditions.

I really appreciate your help. I bought the hose today, but I think I am going to wait until Saturday so I can use some daylight. I need to bleed the clutch as well, so I can use the opportunity when I have the fender well off to run the line as well.

Did you have to take off the intake manifold to get yours done?

I look forward to some pictures. Much appreciated.

 

[Dirtman]

No need to remove the intake but to get to the actual pcv valve requires at least removing the drivers side wheel and inner fender. From there you can very carefully unbolt the oil separator with 8 or 10 bolts on the engine block which the pcv valve is attached to via a pain in the ass clip. This needs to be done every 10k so get used to it...

I bought a catch can and inline pcv valve a few weeks ago, next time I replace the pcv im changing the whole setup to have the catch can and valve mounted by the battery...

 

[JuniorMDB]

No need to remove the intake but to get to the actual pcv valve requires at least removing the drivers side wheel and inner fender. From there you can very carefully unbolt the oil separator with 8 or 10 bolts on the engine block which the pcv valve is attached to via a pain in the ass clip. This needs to be done every 10k so get used to it...

I bought a catch can and inline pcv valve a few weeks ago, next time I replace the pcv im changing the whole setup to have the catch can and valve mounted by the battery...

Where did you track down that inline PCV? I can get the stock one from the Oreilly down the road, but I would be interested in knowing about this setup (although I might leave it stock for now)

 

[Dirtman]

I got it on amazon, its nothing special I just looked for one without a 90 degree bend and hose barbs on both sides. I think the one I ended up getting was for a Hyundai Sonata or something. They all function the same.