What Does This Mean???

[Boggin]

Ok, heres a link i found for a lift on my truck, theres a 2", 4", 6", 8", and a 9-10".
The One Im Lookin at is the 6", more of my budget.. but anyways, What does it mean when it says in the description -- 'Front & rear Leafspring Hangers are The Way to Go! lifts your truck without changing the ride, besides Leafsprings are expensive to buy and ship!'..
http://streetridepro.com/product_info.php?cPath=418_520&products_id=9184

 

[pillen140]

instead of buying lift leaf springs buying lift brackets. the front one is for the front of the rear leaf spring, just to clear that up. the spring hanger on the front of the spring would extend further down, thus giving more height. and the rear shackle looks like what they are selling. the not changing your ride part means this..... you keep your stock leaf springs, so in therory, it would ride the same(comfort). but in reality, it raises your truck, so it will change how it corners, and its center of gravity.

 

[Roadkill]

Just watch your driveshaft angles as well. Six inches shouldn't cause issues but you never know. The angle at the diff should be fine, the transfer case angle could become too sharp.

 

[Hahnsb2]

Dropped spring hangers are ghetto...

 

[pillen140]

Dropped spring hangers are ghetto...

so are body lifts...... but im broke! so thats what i installed!

 

[Hahnsb2]

so are body lifts...... but im broke! so thats what i installed!

Body lifts aren't ghetto, dropping the spring mounts are.

 

[pillen140]

sorry, body lifts are ghetto-fabulous?

 

[Will]

You still have the front to worry about. Man, body lift it!

 

[Dishtowel]

Dropped spring hangers are ghetto...

I'm considering dropping my front spring hanger to take the blocks out of the equation.
Thoughts...?

 

[Boggin]

You still have the front to worry about. Man, body lift it!

will, will, will... Ive told you dozens and dozens of times, I'm not doing body lift
I need room for not bottoming out, i dont jus want bigger tires, i need more space, and i know about the front, thats why i said what does this mean because it says front and back so i didnt know if that mean front and back jus in the back or front end and rear end...

Jeff,

P.S... not doing body lift

 

[mhughes165]

will, will, will... Ive told you dozens and dozens of times, I'm not doing body lift
I need room for not bottoming out, i dont jus want bigger tires, i need more space, and i know about the front, thats why i said what does this mean because it says front and back so i didnt know if that mean front and back jus in the back or front end and rear end...

Jeff,

P.S... not doing body lift

do a damn body lift, what u arent understanding is that wiht a suspension lift u dont gain any height from bottoming out, only thing a suspension lift does is give clearance for larger tires, the axles stay put, by doing a body lift its much cheaper and still gives u the ability to run larger tires, and running larger tires is what gives u clearance, u can have a 15" susp lift but u still only have as much clearance as between the diff and the ground, so just do the 3" body lift and throw the larger meats on there and call it a day

 

[Boggin]

Dude, I dont need the axles higher, the chassis is what i need higher
But who gives a **** now im not doin it anyways..
All im set on doing now is gettin the damn truck fixed so i can trade it for that god damn ranger..

Jeff

 

[MAKG]

mhughes, I think you're misunderstanding what he means by "bottoming." He's hitting the bump stops. A suspension lift will help that substantially.

But I'd suggest he check that the shocks aren't bottoming first, as that's quite common and feels very harsh. You can replace them with longer-travel shocks for quite a lot less than lifting anything (since you'll need longer shocks for any suspension lift).

And the ride WILL change because the springs are physically longer. It's probably the minimal change, but it's not zero.

Do watch driveline angles, but note that they are a function of the driveshaft length (just the rear half for two-piece driveshafts). Shorter shafts have a (proportionally) larger problem.

 

[Dishtowel]

do a damn body lift, what u arent understanding is that wiht a suspension lift u dont gain any height from bottoming out, only thing a suspension lift does is give clearance for larger tires, the axles stay put, by doing a body lift its much cheaper and still gives u the ability to run larger tires, and running larger tires is what gives u clearance, u can have a 15" susp lift but u still only have as much clearance as between the diff and the ground, so just do the 3" body lift and throw the larger meats on there and call it a day

Body lift = no change in frame height = still high centered on the t-case skid Not for me thanks.
Body lift = no change in aviliable suspension travel = no change in flex = no change in maneuverability of rig. Not for me thanks.

I would do a body lift (next time) if i was planning a 5.0L swap, or if I was planning on rocks as a main diet of offroading, (to help keep the COG lower) in addition to suspension lift, other than that, no thanks.

 

[mhughes165]

Body lift = no change in frame height = still high centered on the t-case skid Not for me thanks.
Body lift = no change in aviliable suspension travel = no change in flex = no change in maneuverability of rig. Not for me thanks.

I would do a body lift (next time) if i was planning a 5.0L swap, or if I was planning on rocks as a main diet of offroading, (to help keep the COG lower) in addition to suspension lift, other than that, no thanks.

i was judging by the type of "wheeling" that it appears he was doing in the truck, his truck does not look like a rock truck, so the location of the skids would really do much, i agree, if it were to be a rock truck then yes, only susp lift to keep the cog as low as possible and have increased flex/clearance.

its all perspective on what u plan on using the truck for, i have a need for a body lift because without it i would have NEVER been able to shove a toploader 4spd into a ranger.....