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What did YOU do today?


Sounds like here a few years ago. We had no codes except for electrical and sewer. My current boss was an electrical inspector at the time. Said he saw builders do exterior walls 24" on center, hang drywall on the inside, and vinyl siding on the outside. Not even house wrap or insulation.
Around here, Ryan Homes and Myranda Homes are the big ones but they’ve gotten such a bad rap that they’ve created some subsidiaries to try and fool people. They tell their subcontractors what they will pay them and supply what they consider to be the exact materials required down to the last nail and screw. If you’ve ever built anything, you know that’s not always possible to be that precise. They don’t care. People buy them because “you get a lot of house for your money” which is dumb. It’s not even built by the lowest bidders, it’s built by people working literally for pennies.
 
picked up a kennel to put around the small coop for the little chickens I got last week. once its nit needed in the spring it can be a garage for the gator & maybe a mower.
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In an attempt to quiet the RFI and EMI being generated by the 2011, I installed a bunch of braided bonding straps.
 
Try a little WD-40 or silicone spray when you’re putting the bead down
I was pondering something more short term like soapy water but yeah, some lubrication would help a lot... I know, that's what she said :)

Today so far I've spent a few minutes on my new to me Echo CS500P chainsaw, did the adjustment limiter delete kit so I could cycle the needles, changed the fuel pump diaphragm to a "good used" better version than what was in there (didn't seem bad but I was there...). I'm sure the main tuning I did that helped was from the old gas in the thing so I'll have to do more later but it runs like a top now! Bought it for $40 and so far have $0 and 45 minutes of screwing around into it...
 
While stopped for dinner since this post I checked a different forum I'm on that I mentioned the saw on and a chainsaw guy that knows those chimed in and mentioned a muffler modification that's easy and gains power so of course I had to go do that... breathes much better and took a bit of tuning to the high speed needle... now I'm curious to push the thing into some wood... the piston and cylinder look new so I doubt this thing has more than an hour or two on it...
 
I was pondering something more short term like soapy water but yeah, some lubrication would help a lot... I know, that's what she said :)

Today so far I've spent a few minutes on my new to me Echo CS500P chainsaw, did the adjustment limiter delete kit so I could cycle the needles, changed the fuel pump diaphragm to a "good used" better version than what was in there (didn't seem bad but I was there...). I'm sure the main tuning I did that helped was from the old gas in the thing so I'll have to do more later but it runs like a top now! Bought it for $40 and so far have $0 and 45 minutes of screwing around into it...

You’re dead on track. Using lube and a diaphragm can avoid a whole lot of problems now and down the road when you’re screwing around…
 
While stopped for dinner since this post I checked a different forum I'm on that I mentioned the saw on and a chainsaw guy that knows those chimed in and mentioned a muffler modification that's easy and gains power so of course I had to go do that... breathes much better and took a bit of tuning to the high speed needle... now I'm curious to push the thing into some wood... the piston and cylinder look new so I doubt this thing has more than an hour or two on it...

Also, yes, proper technique can raise them to very high notes, which also pays off.

I am confused about the “push the thing into some wood” comment. Sounds backwards to me.
 
I was pondering something more short term like soapy water

Afterthought, but how are you clamping the screen to the frame before you roll a bead in? A couple questions.

Do you have one of the bead rollers? I assume you do. It has a rounded wheel on one end to push the screen down into the frame,, and then it has a wheel with a concave exterior to ride the bead down and roll it in. If not, they cost Pennie’s.

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When you lay the screen across the frame, how do you clamp it around the edge. Mr. Wer from Wiebe hardware on 65th St showed me the correct technique when I worked there back in the 60s and 70s. The trick is to not only lay the screen out straight, but roll it over the edge to the backside, and then clamp it with a pretty heavy duty clamp. No matter how strong the clamp is if you just pinch it to the face, it’s very easy to pull the screen from under the clamp. If you roll it over so it is clamped to the frame on both sides, it’s pretty hard to move it.

Of course, then you clamp the other end getting it all square, and then you clamp the two sides getting it all square.

Either one of these from Harbor freight will work, I have found the bigger one to be more flexible for other things.


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You probably knew all this, but I hope it helps
 
So far, wokd up at about 9:20 and I've layed here thinking I should probably just sleep the rest of the day.
 
Oh, while working on the 2011, I noticed the tube foung into the A/C compress coated in oil. I'm going have to clean it up and see if the tube itself is leaking or if it is the pressure sensor that tees off of it. I suppose I should find a shop that does A/C work since I don't have any of the proper equiment to service an A/C system.
 
Washed my F-150 KR, and am going to go clean the local FORD dealership in about an hour.
 
Afterthought, but how are you clamping the screen to the frame before you roll a bead in? A couple questions.

Do you have one of the bead rollers? I assume you do. It has a rounded wheel on one end to push the screen down into the frame,, and then it has a wheel with a concave exterior to ride the bead down and roll it in. If not, they cost Pennie’s.

View attachment 133682

When you lay the screen across the frame, how do you clamp it around the edge. Mr. Wer from Wiebe hardware on 65th St showed me the correct technique when I worked there back in the 60s and 70s. The trick is to not only lay the screen out straight, but roll it over the edge to the backside, and then clamp it with a pretty heavy duty clamp. No matter how strong the clamp is if you just pinch it to the face, it’s very easy to pull the screen from under the clamp. If you roll it over so it is clamped to the frame on both sides, it’s pretty hard to move it.

Of course, then you clamp the other end getting it all square, and then you clamp the two sides getting it all square.

Either one of these from Harbor freight will work, I have found the bigger one to be more flexible for other things.


View attachment 133683

You probably knew all this, but I hope it helps
I didn't follow any of that other than I did get one of those cheap rollers (I'm sure I have 4 around somewhere but for the life of me can't find any so bought one). The screen I got is a nylon so it's somewhat slippy and firm on its own. I just laid the frame on the shop floor (only big enough flat spot I have) with 1" overlap and went for it keeping the screen aligned with the frame which surprisingly it stayed straight for the first run then every run after that. When I pushed it just right on the spine while putting it in it pulled the screen tight as I went. A limp fiberglass screen might not be as forgiving...

While on that note the furry jerk tried climbing out the bathroom window yesterday apparently like he'd been doing since he found the hole before... conveniently it didn't do any damage... all of the screens are dead because of him trying to get our attention from outside by climbing them...

On the saw thing, yes I know it should pull itself through the wood and not have me push... this one does have teeth at the saw body though don't remember what they're called...
 
Got my alignment close enough to drive it till I can get it to the shop for a proper job...
 
reassembling the kennel I bought yesterday, it was originally up against a barn & didn’t have a door end panel. So since I kept the old back door from the house I replaced last year. Just build a 2x4 frame, set up the door opening, cover with hardware cloth & its good to go. Will add tarps in october sometime. That top panel was the worst to deal with 6’x 12’ & its 7’ in the air. tractor really was useful today.
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I dont know why this forum software rotates my pictures. grrrr
 

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