What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[sgtsandman]

I started completing preventative maintenance on the 2011 yesterday evening. Front and rear axle gear oil and transfer case and transmission fluid have been changed. I'll get the brake system flushed, changed the engine oil and filter, and drain and fill the power steering reservoir today, if the weather permits.

 

[holyford86]

Started up and moved the 88 around in my back yard so I could rake the lawn. Had a bit of a squirrel brain moment and decided to "upgrade" the pioneer cd deck in it to something more appropriate, I'm not disappointed

 

[superj]

Found a stepside camler shell for the 04. Its even the right color red.

To bad its around atlanta and i dont have space to pick it up. 325 bucks is a great price

 

[Rick W]

Found a stepside camler shell for the 04. Its even the right color red.

To bad its around atlanta and i dont have space to pick it up. 325 bucks is a great price

Can I help?

Are you going to Carlisle? We could throw it on the Road Ranger and I could bring it with me.

 

[superj]

Can I help?

Are you going to Carlisle? We could throw it on the Road Ranger and I could bring it with me.

Oh no, thank you. Its ok. My buddy is wanting ro buy my red ranger from me so the wife would kill me if i actually got it.

Its just a dream to get it, ha ha ha

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Parked it in the zoo for a overnight cub scout event.

 

[sgtsandman]

I changed to engine oil and filter and the engine coolant on the 2011 yesterday. Today, I get to troubleshoot an intermittent issue with the fuel pump.

Worse comes to worse, I have a patch panel for the bed. So, I can cut a hole in the floor to get at the fuel pump, if need be. I had planned on making an access panel while I was patching holes in the bed on the other side. Just not at this point. And it would be more convenient if I had access to the chain hoist in the garage. So I can pull the cap. Then use the engine puller to pull the bed in the driveway for better access below as well as on top for doing the repairs. But, I have a trailer in the garage that is currently being worked on and I'd rather not move it (and all the stuff around and on it) if I don't have to.

Lately, it the fleet has been a rather challenge.

 

[SenorNoob]

Some minor work. I redid my swap wiring properly (butt splices and heat shrink, not twisted and taped). Got the grilled repaired and installed. Finally put on the air horns I've had for (idk many years). Installed the coil spring retainers.

 

[sgtsandman]

I made a big boo boo. I got distracted by something else while gravity bleeding the clutch. Oh, it got bled alright!

I've had the master cylinder out twice so far trying to get all the air out of the system. I got a little clutch movement this last time. So progress is being made but the master is probably going to need to be taken out atleast one more time for yet a other bench bleed.

On a positive note, I guess, the DOT 3 in the clutch system isn't as black as it was. It's amazing how fast the brake fluid got so dark. It wasn't that long ago that I had replaced the master and slave. Maybe four years ago.

 

[RSPD505]

Cleaned up the old shock hoops.

Then painted with yellow anodize paint.

 

[MrockStar]

I fixed My annoying multi-function turn signal switch which would Buzz intermittently unless i turned on the 4 way flashers. Ordered a new one-off amazon $35.00 and replaced it in about 15 minutes. Boy am i happy with this 2010 ranger on how available and reasonable replacement parts are and how easy it is to work on so far.

 

[sgtsandman]

I finally got a successful bench bleed on the clutch master cylinder. The third time is the charm I guess. I also appears that I got all of the air out of the slave cylinder as well. The truck shifts, though it could be a mental thing in it not feeling the same.

 

[sgtsandman]

Today was brake inspections, cleaning, and lubing the slider pins and contact points and greasing the suspension.

The rear brakes are about ready to be replaced again. I'll take another gander at them at the next oil change, which will probably be in July with the way I'm racking up miles now.

 

[Rick W]

Oh wise ones….

Shock absorbers, please and thanks

1987 2.9 4WD short cab short bed, the Missing Linc. 235/75/15 “trail, terrain” tires, well balanced, good condition, on Ford OEM steelie wheels.

The truck has a 2-1/2 or 3 inch lift. I am not sure if it is factory or if it was done by someone who owned it before me. Shock sellers talk about a “high lift” option. I don’t know what that is or if I have that. Please explain that or tell me what to look for.

I want to replace the front and rear shocks with the absolute cheapest thing I can get ahold of that is still new. Rock Auto has several for under $10 each, but I’m not sure if I have the “high lift” option. I don’t want or need coil overs or adjustable or anything like that. Basic.

And, remember, I am a highly educated and capable engineer, and I have worked with my hands and tools on mechanical things for more than 60 years. If I precisely measure the depth of the rust on the current shocks, is there a way I can calculate how many more minutes they will be serviceable?

Rust free southern truck. I rarely go off road, and I never do the trail riding or rock climbing like some of you guys. If I go off road, I’m on a construction site at 5mph or something like that.

I do drive 80MPH down the interstate and highways on a regular basis. That’s when I realized I probably knew new shocks. The tires are balanced very well, but I will get a rumble on roads that I know are actually pretty good.

As always, any and all comments are welcome, and all assistance is graciously appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Oh wise ones….

Shock absorbers, please and thanks

1987 2.9 4WD short cab short bed, the Missing Linc. 235/75/15 “trail, terrain” tires, well balanced, good condition, on Ford OEM steelie wheels.

The truck has a 2-1/2 or 3 inch lift. I am not sure if it is factory or if it was done by someone who owned it before me. Shock sellers talk about a “high lift” option. I don’t know what that is or if I have that. Please explain that or tell me what to look for.

I want to replace the front and rear shocks with the absolute cheapest thing I can get ahold of that is still new. Rock Auto has several for under $10 each, but I’m not sure if I have the “high lift” option. I don’t want or need coil overs or adjustable or anything like that. Basic.

And, remember, I am a highly educated and capable engineer, and I have worked with my hands and tools on mechanical things for more than 60 years. If I precisely measure the depth of the rust on the current shocks, is there a way I can calculate how many more minutes they will be serviceable?

Rust free southern truck. I rarely go off road, and I never do the trail riding or rock climbing like some of you guys. If I go off road, I’m on a construction site at 5mph or something like that.

I do drive 80MPH down the interstate and highways on a regular basis. That’s when I realized I probably knew new shocks. The tires are balanced very well, but I will get a rumble on roads that I know are actually pretty good.

As always, any and all comments are welcome, and all assistance is graciously appreciated. Thanks in advance!

The “High Rider” was an option for the STX packaged trucks and was a factory 2” lift, if I remember correctly.

If you have a 2-3” lift, you will need longer shocks than stock.

Cheap shocks are not worth the effort to install. I’ve been down this road. Cheap shocks will give you the ride quality of blown-out shocks and will be toast in short order, not that they were any good to begin with. I always thought buying a mid to high range Gabriel/Guardian/Monroe/etc was acceptable. Then I put KYBs on the back of my Choptop and noticed a difference. Then I tried Rough Country N3 shocks on the front and they were even better than the KYBs for how I use the rig so I swapped out the KYBs for RCs. RCs are sold in pairs so I spent the same money as I did on the KYBs. Ride quality has been good enough that I’m questioning all of my shock choices.

I know you’re typically cheap, but I’ve learned that cheap shocks are not worth it. Best to bite the bullet and spend a little more for comfort.