What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Ok, I hear you, and I’ve looked at the videos, but I still have a question on this. I did order the tool kit, and the synchronizer, and they should be here this weekend.

You said to get the engine to top dead center. I know how to do that and I can do that.

Then you said, just drop in the synchronizer with the tool on top and tighten it down, and then swap the tool for the cap/reader.

Maybe I’m a dummy, but with the helical gear on the synchronizer, can’t I just pick it up and turn it a few degrees and put it down in a different place? Won’t you have as many positions as there are teeth on that helical/spiral gear?

???

Yes, it does spin a little on the helical gear, but the tool holds the alignment of the synchro to the sensor, so as long as you can fit the sensor and plug it in, you’re good. Doesn’t matter exactly which way it’s facing as long as you can put the sensor on and plug it in, much like clocking a distributor with a TFI on it, as long as it’s not hitting anything and it’s in time, it’s good. The alignment tool make sure it’s in time relative TDC.

 

[superj]

Playing around in forscan i found hill descent control and activated it.

I also played eith the offroad screen choices and series2 gives me buttons on the bottom of the screen but only the rear locker button lights up and does anything when i touch it. Now i can activate the rear locker eith the physical button or the screen button

When messing around, dont activate selectable drive modes or you get the mustang screen and drive mod buttons. They do nothing on a ranger.

That top one is the mustang one.

Some things i avtivated on those two screen shots didnt do anything but i havent put them back to disabled till i actually drive and see it they work whole moving.

I did figure out how to add the outside temp to the cluster. That was why i originally plugged in my laptop but i got distracted reading the options and turned on a bunch of stuff

 

[Rick W]

That stuff is amazing. Star Wars to me.

How do I plug in my Commodore 64 into the 78 Mark V to get those options? Do you think it would work with the 87 and 88 town cars? The 87 Ranger? Or even the 97 ranger?

Can you load it with an eight track or a cassette tape?

 

[scotts90ranger]

I had someone ask me once to fax them an engine calibration update... I kindly explained that's not how it works...

 

[Rick W]

I had someone ask me once to fax them an engine calibration update... I kindly explained that's not how it works...

Wasn’t me. My fax is broken.

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

Wasn’t me. My fax is broken.

It's just at the wrong angle. You just need to get your fax straight.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Tonight I changed the O rings in the fitting that goes into the power steering pump on the '90, just used cheap ones but they'll last a while at least... I know it's been 15 years since the last time I was in there... it's an oily disaster under the hood, after a few more shop things that I deal with I might pressure wash under the hood... Also took the opportunity to fix the wire on one of the LED offroad lights that I had mounted out the front of the mount last time I had it off and moved it to the back. Also laid under the thing and checked over some things, realized I might have missed a step, I thought I capped both of the front ends of the radius arms but only did the drivers side, next time I get things apart I'll probably do that... A couple days ago ordered new U joints for the rear drieline since one of them is squeaky. Today I ordered some shackle mounts to weld onto my bumpers, they're up to the task so might as well be there, would save time and be helpful, when I get to the back bumper I need to add some support to keep it from rotating...

 

[Rick W]

Yes, it does spin a little on the helical gear, but the tool holds the alignment of the synchro to the sensor, so as long as you can fit the sensor and plug it in, you’re good. Doesn’t matter exactly which way it’s facing as long as you can put the sensor on and plug it in, much like clocking a distributor with a TFI on it, as long as it’s not hitting anything and it’s in time, it’s good. The alignment tool make sure it’s in time relative TDC.

I wanted to give you a word of personal thanks on all this. All the guys are great and holding advice has been good, but every time you’ve given me a proper response that’s right on target. THANK YOU!

The synchronizer is here and the alignment tool is here, but the master bedroom shower is started dribbling hot water like it was free. I’ve been under the house four times to turn the water on and off, a mucky crawlspace, and nobody in the western Hemisphere has the seals that should cost $.50. I bought a new valve assembly, and I think I can modify the seals to work. If not, the custom built fiberglass surround in the bathroom wall has to come down for a new valve.

Understand that the valve assembly is like brand new. No corrosion, no dirt, looks as good as the day it was installed a few years ago, all that is wrong or the little bucket seals on a spring like a Delta faucet has

When I called Kohler directly for the part, the seals, they started out asking me what part number was it? If I knew that I wouldn’t be calling them! Really very nice polite ladies on the other end of the phone, but the three I talked to know nothing about plumbing or plumbing fixtures, they just know how to type into a computer and read out what it says. But all three offered to sell me a new faucet and knock off 10%. When I asked for compensation for taking the bathroom wall apart….

Technology is saving us.

 

[pacstud]

I was able to complete my first harness swap. I had never crimped before, so a bit of a learning curve but not too bad. I now have all four speeds on my blower for the first time in a decade. I swapped the resistor last week, but that harness was beyond shot.

Anyway, I did find a very small vacuum line from under the blower to the heater control bypass valve (?).

I couldn't get a picture, but with a mirror could see the rubber "L" that goes into the valve is no good. The line itself also seems to have broken short (image included). My question, is there a way to "splice" the line (it's so small), so I don't have to go rooting around the blower to replace the whole line?

Also, I suppose I should ask if I'm even right, is that where this line goes?