What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[85_Ranger4x4]

Drove it to town and met dad for lunch at a burger joint. As per the norm I parked so I could sit and look at my truck.

Teeny bopper girl drove thru in a XJ. If you picture what kind of a XJ a high school girl would drive on 33's... this one is slightly better than what you initially picture. She must have just gotten it, it was mostly still there but was beginning the downward slide.

Anyway she drives in and I am parked on the inside corner against the building right outside the window behind our booth, she is gawking coming and going and rubber necking as she drives away looking at my truck... as she keeps goosing the throttle of her Jeep as if there was anyone in the truck to be intimidated. The exhaust had a nice "blown out XJ exhaust" sound quality to it as she revved her way over to the drive thru.

I don't know of the spare tire on the back was shorting her out or what but it was funny to watch.

Initial thought was something along the lines of "I don't know how big of a V8 it would take to obliterate a 4.0... but I know how big of one I would use" but I kind of settled on just being happy that a younger person out there is into vehicles enough to get that excited by a rival vehicle.

 

[Rick W]

I finally got my new wheel painted up and got the fifth tire (from the set I bought for $200) mounted, so now I now have a very roadworthy matching spare.

The owners of the Missing Linc before me had pulled out the spare tire carrier from underneath and chopped it up and made a mount in the corner of the bed. They used that truck for charging through the woods before they blew the engine. I started by seeing if that 235/75/15 would fit in there just in case. It fit, but it really took up a lot of space for trying to put things in and out of the bed.

I installed one of the mounts that mounts under the bed a while ago. When I did my measurements with a tape measure, I was afraid that 235 wouldn’t fit under there. I had a 215/70/15 under there. I pulled that out, and then I was very pleasantly surprised to see that the 235 actually fit. Just barely!

When I went to swing it up, that little right angle tab that hangs down behind the license plate would not clear the diameter of the tire when I swung it up. When you tried to move it backwards, it only had about a half inch before it hit the back of the receiver. I made sure I had a spare just in case, and then I used a cut off wheel to just take off 90% of the flap that goes under the tire bracket. There’s still enough there to catch the bracket under the tire so I don’t have to hold it when I put the bolt in.

Happy as a clam! More to follow on that spaghetti wiring….

 

[morsetaper2]

Changed the multifunction switch yesterday. The left turn signal had not been self-cancelling for some time, and the right turn signal had started to do the same, but on the road Saturday night I felt something funny in the switch when signalling to change lanes. My headlamps had become stuck on high beam and would not dim. The position of the stalk made no difference and felt as though something had jammed.

The Haynes manual is broadly useless for changing the switch. I watched a video for the procedure online done on another 2011 and it was simple. The Haynes instructions had said that on the 2011 models it was necessary to remove the ignition key cylinder (???) and possibly the steering wheel with airbag (???) to be able to remove the upper and lower steering-column covers to access the switch. That was hogwash.

The only thing it got right was the need to remove the tilt lever if the truck is equipped with it (mine is). That unscrewed easily. I finished the job and confirmed everything worked again in about half an hour. Not a bad job. Didn't need to remove the ignition cylinder or the steering wheel.

By the way, the 2011 in the video that required the multifunction switch had a little over 150,000 miles. Mine has nearly 170,000 miles, but that isn't a huge difference. Maybe this will give an idea of the expected life of the switch. I was fortunate in that my local NAPA had one in stock. Could have saved $$ by ordering from RockAuto online, but this was one time when I wanted to put the part in my hot little hands and fix it NOW.

My 2011 Ranger has not been cancelling the TS after LH turns for some time. So now getting around to dealing with this. Appears my MultiFunction switch has failed.

Curious if this is the video you were referring to:

Anyone recommend an aftermarket unit to purchase? Looking at Rock Auto they range in price from about $37 up to $140. And a Motorcraft option is $414 for which I will pass.

So looking for recommendations for an aftermarket MF switch. Thinking the Rostra 640133... not the cheapest, nor the most expensive.

Anyone have any good or bad things to say about aftermarket MF switches before I buy the Rostra?

 

[ekrampitzjr]

I think that was the video. You should find it a simple job. The procedure is the same on all the Rangers with that same switch: tilt the wheel all the way down, unscrew tilt lever, unscrew and remove upper and lower steering-column covers, and remove switch, then install new switch and reinstall everything. The hardest part is fishing out the two covers. I spent about $180 for the NAPA switch, but as stated, I wanted it now and the NAPA store had it in stock. Sometimes you can't (or don't want to) wait for an order to arrive.

I wouldn't have bought the Motorcraft switch either. Consider that it was a Ford factory switch that had failed...

 

[Rick W]

My 2011 Ranger has not been cancelling the TS after LH turns for some time. So now getting around to dealing with this. Appears my MultiFunction switch has failed.

Curious if this is the video you were referring to:

Anyone recommend an aftermarket unit to purchase? Looking at Rock Auto they range in price from about $37 up to $140. And a Motorcraft option is $414 for which I will pass.

So looking for recommendations for an aftermarket MF switch. Thinking the Rostra 640133... not the cheapest, nor the most expensive.

Anyone have any good or bad things to say about aftermarket MF switches before I buy the Rostra?

View attachment 137905

I bought this one on eBay a couple years ago. Recently I had to take it apart and clean up one of the contacts, but it’s probably not the fault of the switch. I have all kinds of extra lights and funky wiring that run off the original circuit. I didn’t even have to replace it, I just opened it up and cleaned the contacts. Also, once you do it, you’ll see that it’s so easy to take in and out, I don’t see why you’d ever pay more than the minimum price which will probably last the average guy years. But I’m pretty cheap.

 

[Rick W]

I waited for the ground to dry up a little bit, and I went out and finished up fixing my reverse lights on the Missing Linc. There was nothing wrong with them, but I added two low lights to better see the driveway when I was backing up. When I turned it all on, the two low lights only came on very dimly. I had already added two LED floods on my headache rack, as well as four brite LEDs across the top of the rack. Too many lights on the skinny little cheap wire they built into the truck. I also have them wired to a switch on my overhead panel so I can use them all as work lights without putting the truck in reverse.

So I ran a 14 gauge hot wire off the battery on a 20 amp fuse, and I installed a relay behind the left rear tail light. Now that relay feeds the original reverse lights, the two I added, as well as a trailer if I’m pulling it. I swapped the OEM reverse bulbs for some super bright LEDs as well.

When I first did it, it all worked fine when I flipped the switch on. The problem is it continued to work fine when I flipped the switch off! I had created a feedback through the far reverse lamp. I clipped the wire to that and wired it into the feed from the relay, now all is good.

And another Rick’s tip:

Everybody’s probably experienced the little plastic screw sockets getting worn out, making it harder and harder to put the tail lights in without them wiggling. I figured out a while ago, if you just run a 8” zip tie through that plastic piece, it takes up enough space that the screws will hold tight. And since the Zip ties are nylon, they last. If they don’t, they’re cheap, use another one. On the far side, I had one that was completely missing. I took two of the 8 inch zip ties and triple looped them through the hole which ate up enough space so the screw would bite.

 

[pacstud]

My 2011 Ranger has not been cancelling the TS after LH turns for some time. So now getting around to dealing with this. Appears my MultiFunction switch has failed.

Curious if this is the video you were referring to:

Anyone recommend an aftermarket unit to purchase? Looking at Rock Auto they range in price from about $37 up to $140. And a Motorcraft option is $414 for which I will pass.

So looking for recommendations for an aftermarket MF switch. Thinking the Rostra 640133... not the cheapest, nor the most expensive.

Anyone have any good or bad things to say about aftermarket MF switches before I buy the Rostra?

View attachment 137905

Not for Rangers, but my daughter's Focus has a known MFS that fails. Went with a matching one the first time (the OE is made in Spain?...for electronics, Spain?). Lasted six months. Second time, got a cheap a** one from China with a one year warranty ($15). It's a tool-free swap so I just treat it like a maintenance item. And for a switch, I'll take China over Spain any day.

I don't know the prevalence of "NEW POSTS" function here, but anyone with fuel knowledge is welcome to help me here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/threads/fuel-pressure-regulator.207652/post-2115613

 

[SenorNoob]

@Rick W Those screw holders are available from LMC if you want, but I rather like your solution. Especially if I can use these cheap zip ties I've got...

Got the new seats in. Still got some work to do.

 

[Curious Hound]

@Rick W Those screw holders are available from LMC if you want, but I rather like your solution. Especially if I can use these cheap zip ties I've got...

Got the new seats in. Still got some work to do.

Nice!

 

[SenorNoob]

Thanks. Should make a difference on the long trip I'm hoping to make either this year or next.

I've saved vacation time and will have 3 weeks after my anniversary date the 17th of this month. I wanna load up a spend a couple weeks on the road.

 

[morsetaper2]

I bought this one on eBay a couple years ago. Recently I had to take it apart and clean up one of the contacts, but it’s probably not the fault of the switch. I have all kinds of extra lights and funky wiring that run off the original circuit. I didn’t even have to replace it, I just opened it up and cleaned the contacts. Also, once you do it, you’ll see that it’s so easy to take in and out, I don’t see why you’d ever pay more than the minimum price which will probably last the average guy years. But I’m pretty cheap.

Like you, I am a cheap f**k, as well. But I will spend the dollars when it makes sense to do so.

Your logic, that it's so EZ to replace, so go cheap - makes sense. Looking at the cheaper priced manufacture closeout, the SAE1212 @ $46. Its a module sold at Car Quest Auto Parts stores for $175-ish normally. That's a nice discount. But it's all a gamble. But I pulled the trigger on that SAE1212 mfgr closeout for $46 on your logic. Which I agree with. Thanks!

 

[pacstud]

Like you, I am a cheap f**k, as well. But I will spend the dollars when it makes sense to do so.

Your logic, that it's so EZ to replace, so go cheap - makes sense. Looking at the cheaper priced manufacture closeout, the SAE1212 @ $46. Its a module sold at Car Quest Auto Parts stores for $175-ish normally. That's a nice discount. But it's all a gamble. But I pulled the trigger on that SAE1212 mfgr closeout for $46 on your logic. Which I agree with. Thanks!

There's a formula somewhere that makes it work. Cost, install difficulty, how long til I have to do it again. OE? Sure, a lot of times it makes sense. Cheapo Chinesium? It makes sense sometimes as well.

 

[Dredwolf]

Drove my '93 XL with WAY more than 300K miles on it after a ICM change, found an issue, and came back to the forums looking for answers, found that apparently my last post was in 2017. So posted my issue, posted my location, and commented here, realizing eight years flew by, and none of my projects on MY vehicles got worked on, and all the quick improvements for the '93 are still stacked on a pallet in the barn, the last time I welded was making a quick 3-point log skidder frame right after Helene, and box for my "new" 20-ton HF press has completely disintegrated a long time ago, but at some point I converted my first 20 ton press to air over hydraulic.

And like the run-on sentence above, apparently my life has been in a run-on phase.

 

[Rick W]

Like you, I am a cheap f**k, as well. But I will spend the dollars when it makes sense to do so.

Your logic, that it's so EZ to replace, so go cheap - makes sense. Looking at the cheaper priced manufacture closeout, the SAE1212 @ $46. Its a module sold at Car Quest Auto Parts stores for $175-ish normally. That's a nice discount. But it's all a gamble. But I pulled the trigger on that SAE1212 mfgr closeout for $46 on your logic. Which I agree with. Thanks!

I should also throw in the qualifier that I am retired, by myself, and I have six road worthy vehicles. I never have to rely on a particular one, so it’s easier for me to gamble.

When I took the old one out, I took it apart, and it had a bad contact in the same place, probably because of the extra lights and wiring I have added. I actually cleaned up that contact, and I have it sitting on the shelf as a spare. Even the cheap ones are kind of heavy duty because they get used constantly.

 

[sgtsandman]

My 2011 Ranger has not been cancelling the TS after LH turns for some time. So now getting around to dealing with this. Appears my MultiFunction switch has failed.

Curious if this is the video you were referring to:

Anyone recommend an aftermarket unit to purchase? Looking at Rock Auto they range in price from about $37 up to $140. And a Motorcraft option is $414 for which I will pass.

So looking for recommendations for an aftermarket MF switch. Thinking the Rostra 640133... not the cheapest, nor the most expensive.

Anyone have any good or bad things to say about aftermarket MF switches before I buy the Rostra?

View attachment 137905

In my 2011, it's the pawl that disengaged the lever that has failed, which I think is the same direction you are talking about.

So far, Standard Motor Products seems to be fine with the stuff I've replaced. Since Rock Auto doesn't seem to have or allow reviews on parts, the hearts next to a product are a good indicator on which ones seem to be working well for others. I tend to avoid the economy marked brands and go with the standard replacement products.

As far as $414 for the Ford part, I would agree on not spending that kind of money. Especially since the part that has gone bad for me is a recall replacement for the original one that came with the truck. Granted, the replacement happened in 2011. So, it got a good number of years under it. But $400+ is a tough pill to swallow.