What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Bill]

Ford "back-specified" 5W-20 for many older models later. That's why the oil change places are telling you they plan to use that grade. Ford's change was about "fuel economy". I'm with you about sticking with higher viscosity. 20W-50 might be overkill if it isn't using/losing oil, but 10W-40 shouldn't hurt anything.

My 4.0 takes 5W-30. No way am I going with xW-20.

The 4.0 uses 5w30 due to the design of the oil pump and it's inability to maintain adequate oil pressure at operating temperature using 5w20. That engine design comes from a V4 designed in the early 60s. It's big, fat, inefficient, and clunky when compared to the newer engines. Don't compare it to the engines in modern vehicles. It's summer now, so a 20w doesn't matter. A 50 weight is excessive. 5w20 or 5w30 is more than adequate. There's much more to engine lubrication than the weight of the oil. You not only want the oil to maintain a film between moving parts. You also want it to flow between the parts to cool the bearing surfaces and be able to reach all the components in the valvetrain.

 

[Blmpkn]

Thanks for mentioning that. Don't know how I missed it.

Now that raises a few questions about the drag racer... Why is he running a Ranger body?

Ranger looks better than the s10, but SBC power is cheaper than Ford power so it's perfect.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Finally got the old power steering line off the Explorer, the new one on, then had to replace the tensioner because it wasn’t doing much, but that’s all back together now. Pretty sure there’s a parasitic draw somewhere but that project is down a bit on the list. Dad’s Ranger has some issues starting, but it has to wait too.

My green Ranger has to take priority now until it’s done. Hopefully my parts come in tomorrow or Thursday. I have a little bit I can work on before needing them though so I’m not too excited just yet. Still need to figure out what clutch packs I need to order for the rear axle, I wanted to service the limited slip and shove a couple extra clutch disks in, but my search for them brought up the question of are they short ear or long ear. I also want to find a better diff cover since it’s pretty rusty. Originally I thought about a Solid cover like I put on my F-150, but then I had someone tell me that F-150 8.8” and RBV 8.8” use different covers? The axle I’m talking about for this project is out of a 98 Explorer.

 

[1990RangerinSK]

Thanks for mentioning that. Don't know how I missed it.

Now that raises a few questions about the drag racer... Why is he running a Ranger body?

Because he can? But, let's ask @Maritime Drag Racing for the official answer. It's his truck.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

The 4.0 uses 5w30 due to the design of the oil pump and it's inability to maintain adequate oil pressure at operating temperature using 5w20. That engine design comes from a V4 designed in the early 60s. It's big, fat, inefficient, and clunky when compared to the newer engines. Don't compare it to the engines in modern vehicles. It's summer now, so a 20w doesn't matter. A 50 weight is excessive. 5w20 or 5w30 is more than adequate. There's much more to engine lubrication than the weight of the oil. You not only want the oil to maintain a film between moving parts. You also want it to flow between the parts to cool the bearing surfaces and be able to reach all the components in the valvetrain.

Agreed on all counts. I said no way am I going with xW-20 in my 4.0 Ranger because it's easy to imagine some auto shop pulling the same thing as the other poster reported. (But I change my oil myself anyway.)

Some people run heavier oil than specified thinking they're protecting the engine better or they're slowing leaks and oil consumption. My experience has been, if the engine leaks or burns oil that bad, running 20W-50 instead of 10W-30 makes little difference. It won't help. Time for an overhaul. Also, if the higher-viscosity oil doesn't pump or flow properly, it could cause real harm.

 

[sgtsandman]

I stick with what the oil cap says is supposed to go in it. Honda at some point had switched from 5W-30 to something thinner as a recommended oil for that engine. Not sure why and didn't dig into it. Then engine ran fine and had good oil test results with the original viscosity.

 

[Maritime Drag Racing]

In case you wondered why my Ranger has a SBC it's because I already had engine/trans since the 1980s and I bought the truck as a roller for only $1000 CDN with the ProStar wheels, gauges, radiator, fuel cell, SBC fenderwell headers and even a good battery. I think the Ranger is a way better truck for drag racing than an S10 - more room under the hood, tougher suspension, and way better visibility for watching the guy in the other lane. I wuldn't trade it for dozen S10s.....

 

[ekrampitzjr]

MDR, didn't know you were on the forum!

Wouldn't a pickup body be too light in the rear for drag racing? Or doesn't it make much difference?

 

[superj]

i was wondering that too, the rear end being lighter. i see lots of people run trucks though so there must be some suspension magic going on that doesn't happen on regular trucks used as daily drivers, ha ha ha, because my little ranger just spins and barely grabs if you rev it and pop the clutch

 

[Blmpkn]

It's all about that weight transfer and sticky tires.

Tons of fast pickups out there.

 

[sgtsandman]

I finally got around to getting the engine oil, transmission fluid, and transfer case fluid changed (a month late). I still have to do the brake inspections and rotate the tires but I didn't have the time for that today. I did get to lube the leaf spring bolts. I forgot to look at the spring packs though and see how many pads need replaced. I know there is at least a couple that got pretty mangled up from the last trail ride. But at least the preventative maintenance is getting done finally.

 

[Spidey300]

Last night I finally replaced my spark plugs and wires on my 98 2.5L. Haven't changed them before and the #3 wire boot on the passenger side was partially melted and visibly arcing/ticking while running.

Boy, that was not fun. I had the wobble extensions, etc. so the actual plug removal and install was the easy part. One of those flex cable claw grabber tools actually worked great to feed the plug down to the socket and get it started. Getting the wire boots off #3 and #4 on the driver side sucked. I didn't have a long enough pliers and they didn't have the plastic handle covers on them. When I finally got #3 boot off, the metal inside of the plug boot stayed on the plug so I couldn't get my deep socket on it so I had a heck of a time with that. Then #4 did the same thing. Luckily, my wife doesn't mind working on cars and has small hands and came out to help.

Snaking the new wires and boots with the plastic puller handles on them was another pain for #3 and #4. It was almost impossible to get them turned into position and lined up properly. I'm still not sure I got them pushed back on all the way.

Anyway, I was up til 1am and this morning I ordered a set of 11" long reach needle and ring nose pliers, lol.

 

[racsan]

I tried fixing a couple escape spare tires, put the green goop in them, bolted them in the back of the ranger & went for a ride. they still leak, rust between rim & tire on one rim and between valve stem & rim on the other. Now im using the tailgate as a workbench , goung through my work toolbox, taking out stuff I never use, getting rid of all the extra fasteners that Ive collected (and never seem to use). Next I will probably head to town for some topsoil. got gas last night, almost $40 and wasnt even at half a tank yet. I remember when 20 was more than enough, and I had a smaller tank with a bigger engine too!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

 

[JoshT]

Spent money and added another parts truck (sorta) to the stable. Gotta figure out where to host pictures at these days and I might get some posted.

EDIT: I guess I could use the forum's media gallery for now.

Listing 2.jpg

• JoshT
• May 21, 2022