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What did you do to your 2019 and up Ranger today?


New Steelcraft rear bumper due to some jackass hitting me in a grocery store parking lot. No note.

Looks good though!


CMOS
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Well truck will hit 75k today on a work trip so did the PM yesterday a few hundred ahead of it. Opted to change spark plugs as well, I had gotten some new ones a few months back from a friend at a Ford dealer. Don't know what the interval is but man did the remind me of 04-07 5.4 plugs. Terrible dry screeching when removing and burn marks on the upper half of the porcelain. Odd? I anti-seized and torqued back to spec per google. But for warning others I wouldn't wait till 100k+. Super easy but corrosion would be bad I think.

View attachment 90745View attachment 90744View attachment 90743


@RumPunch


Did you use a Nickle based anti-seize?


CMOS
 
I’ve never seen shackles installed with a bolt and safety wire. Seems like it could be a little tedious when you need to hook up a strap.
Soft shackle threads through without taking the hard shackle apart. Many people will say " Why not skip the hard shackle?" But the hole in the recovery point is smaller and not rounded or chamfered very much. So the big hard shackle saves wear and tear on the soft shackle.

That's my opinion, anyway.
 
I’ve never seen shackles installed with a bolt and safety wire. Seems like it could be a little tedious when you need to hook up a strap.

Eric covered the strap part. The wire is to prevent the nut from backing off and falling off, potentially allowing the bolt and shackle to also go bye-bye. Safety wire is a common thing in the aviation industry and cotter pins in things like ball joint studs perform a similar function. Cotter pins might be more practical for removal and installation but wire, if done right would be more aesthetically pleasing and if stainless wire is used, much more rust resistant than a cotter pin.
 
Guys, seeing as how I work in Houston (a wretched hive of scum and villany), theft is a concern.

As far as practicality, I will probably never "pull" anything with those shackles. I'll "pull" via the Class III receiver.


CMOS
 
Eric covered the strap part. The wire is to prevent the nut from backing off and falling off, potentially allowing the bolt and shackle to also go bye-bye. Safety wire is a common thing in the aviation industry and cotter pins in things like ball joint studs perform a similar function. Cotter pins might be more practical for removal and installation but wire, if done right would be more aesthetically pleasing and if stainless wire is used, much more rust resistant than a cotter pin.

I'm aware what the safety wire is for, and without thinking about the soft shackles the safety wire would be counter intuitive. Yeah, that nut isn't going to fall off, but you can't take it off either.


For ops use as decorations, probably the best way to go about it.
 
I'm aware what the safety wire is for, and without thinking about the soft shackles the safety wire would be counter intuitive. Yeah, that nut isn't going to fall off, but you can't take it off either.


For ops use as decorations, probably the best way to go about it.

The fact that the shackle still rotates and not seeing if it is a locking nut or not, that wire, a cotter pin, or a clevis pin could be very important.

Working in the military, in the aviation field, I could very well be making a inconsequential deal into a bigger one than it needs to be as well. Personally, I would have used a clevis pin and had a strap of some kind to secure it incase it got knocked loose but again, the maybe the decades of dealing with military and aviation OCD talking.
 
The fact that the shackle still rotates and not seeing if it is a locking nut or not, that wire, a cotter pin, or a clevis pin could be very important.

Working in the military, in the aviation field, I could very well be making a inconsequential deal into a bigger one than it needs to be as well. Personally, I would have used a clevis pin and had a strap of some kind to secure it incase it got knocked loose but again, the maybe the decades of dealing with military and aviation OCD talking.

I agree clevis pin would be easier to access for this setup, but If we are worried about something coming loose or getting stolen I would think removing it from the D ring would be the best bet.
I've also never had screw pin fall out of a shackle while using it, and they use a cotter pin or anything. I prefer the screw pin over the nut and bolt, faster to undo. I also leave my shackles in the bucket with the straps when not in use.
 
I leave mine on the bumper so they're easy and quick to use. Not for "decoration" purposes. Mine actually get used. Not sure how easily the pin could come loose and fall out. Probably not very likely. I will add that I have acquired a nice shackle by finding it in the trail in a large OHV park. So, if not secured in some way, they do get lost.

20230418_130036.jpg
 
Just heard from the dealership regarding my center bearing, it is indeed junk, and the shaft is on backorder with zero ETA.

My issue now, is that I can't get my truck inspected with a shitty center bearing... and even though it's unlikely to cause an accident... the law isn't gonna give a damn. They said it's fine to drive... meaning they don't want to or don't have the ability to give me a loaner.... ugh.
 
Just heard from the dealership regarding my center bearing, it is indeed junk, and the shaft is on backorder with zero ETA.

My issue now, is that I can't get my truck inspected with a shitty center bearing... and even though it's unlikely to cause an accident... the law isn't gonna give a damn. They said it's fine to drive... meaning they don't want to or don't have the ability to give me a loaner.... ugh.


I would argue that if they aren't willing to give you an inspection sticker it's not fine to drive....
 

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