What are the chances of...?

[hilltopfarm]

Ok, so I am doing a overhaul of my 2003 Ranger 4.0L. The reason that I am doing this is because of the notorious timing chain rattle. Upon pulling the engine and taking off the valve cover, found that the plastic chain guide is completely gone in the back of the engine (the bolt that is supposed to hold the guide in place was almost completely worn away due to the chain riding on it). Pieces of the guide were visible when looking down into the timing chain, and also in the oil pan.

I am receiving a remanufactured engine from PROMAR out of NJ. I would like to ensure that this does not happen again. From what I understand there is an updated timing kit that eliminates the self destructing guides.

Is there any way that I can ensure that the new engine has that kit in it? Also can anyone confirm that the "updated timing kit" does indeed resolve the problem that these engines suffered from? What are the chances of this happening to me again?

Thank you for your help!

 

[gw33gp]

I can't answer your questions but I do have a couple to ask you.

How many miles do you have on the engine you are replacing? What kind of oil did you use? The reason I am asking is; I have an 02 with 161k miles with no problems so far. I am trying to determine if I should consider some work on my engine to keep it gong for a long time.

 

[hilltopfarm]

I had 134K miles on mine. Just bought it last year, so I can't say what the previous owner did, but judging by what I am seeing, he did not maintain it very well at all. I would say that going synthetic after the break-in period is what I am going to do. Make sure to use a oil filter that has a anti drainback valve in it. Fram filters do not, Wix do. So all in all, I guess as long as you have regularly changed the oil and done all recommended maintenance on the engine, it should go for a while yet. I assume that you do not have the death rattle (i.e. timing chain noise)?

My tranny and t-case were also in need of a rebuild. Previous owner it seems at some point ran both low on fluid.

 

[Dune Runner]

Why don't you call PROMAR and ask them if the upgraded parts are used?

 

[adsm08]

PROMAR should know, but if the engine was rebuilt I would suspect it has the updated parts.

The chain guides aren't actually the problem. The chain tensioners are the real issue. They are just two large spring-loaded bolts, with no oil pressure going to them. When the springs begin to wear they can allow excessive movement and slap in the chain, and that slap of the metal chain against the plastic guide is what destroys the chain guides.

 

[hilltopfarm]

The chain tensioners are the real issue. They are just two large spring-loaded bolts, with no oil pressure going to them.

Ok, that explains it. I guess the updated ones have better springs? I noticed when I got the old engine apart when I turn the crankshaft, the tensioners will cycle (get tight, get loose) For some reason I thought that Ford used hydraulic tensioners.

Would it be advisable to replace the tensioners at specific intervals??

 

[hilltopfarm]

Why don't you call PROMAR and ask them if the upgraded parts are used?

Ok, I just called them and they said that all of their parts in their remanufactured engines are the latest updated parts. So I assume that would mean that the timing chain tensioner is updated too.

 

[hilltopfarm]

PROMAR should know, but if the engine was rebuilt I would suspect it has the updated parts.

The chain guides aren't actually the problem. The chain tensioners are the real issue. They are just two large spring-loaded bolts, with no oil pressure going to them. When the springs begin to wear they can allow excessive movement and slap in the chain, and that slap of the metal chain against the plastic guide is what destroys the chain guides.

Thanks for the reply!

I just took the rear tensioner off and it feels fairly stiff. Also wondering why there are two holes in it: one at the top by the head and one in the very bottom of the plunger? Do these have something to do with internal oiling? Oil pressure? I am trying to figure these things out so that I can prevent the excessive timing component wear. As I said in the above post: should I replace these tensioners at say 100K or less to prevent them from wearing out??

Thanks.

 

[hilltopfarm]

PROMAR should know, but if the engine was rebuilt I would suspect it has the updated parts.

The chain guides aren't actually the problem. The chain tensioners are the real issue. They are just two large spring-loaded bolts, with no oil pressure going to them. When the springs begin to wear they can allow excessive movement and slap in the chain, and that slap of the metal chain against the plastic guide is what destroys the chain guides.

I hate to disagree, but I just checked my tensioners and it appears that they are indeed hydraulically activated. I took the hole near the top of the tensioner, and applied air pressure (45 lbs) to it and it became much stiffer, such that I could no longer push in on it.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if this is the case and they are hydraulically activated, wouldn't an oil accumulator that provides oil pressure before the engine is even started reduce timing guide wear by providing oil pressure and thus tension to the chains.

Please don't take me the wrong way, I'm just trying to understand this problem better and the components involved so that I can hopefully prevent it from happening again (at least w/in the next 200K).