What are some good connecter strategies to rewiring a engine compartment?

[OilPatch197]

Any tips?

Right now I am evaluating the engine bay and I see like eight or nine of those wire taps(the kind that cuts thru the insulation) and I would like to rewire this "beast". (it looks like they basically "bypassed the bad wiring with new wiring, so I got like a dozen wires I don't need)

What is the best connectors I can use to create a "Y" and union joints?

My plan was to use some crimp rings, they are tubes you put the wire in and crimp and I was planning on using heat shrink tubing over that.

I also thought about using spade terminals that has the clear heat shrink tubing already on the connector.

Any suggestions on the best method to mate wires and seal them to protect from moisture?

I see someone used some wire nuts and electrical tape abounds, those cheap wire taps, and a few of those "no crimp" reusable twist locks.

These are all out, no protectiong what-so-ever.

Also any advice on how to clean the connectors for the various sensors? I would like to remove some oxidation from the exposed wire so I can crimp or solder new wire, I thought about soaking the connector in White vinigar(cleans pennies) your thoughts on this?

 

[RobbieD]

Ditch the taps, wire nuts, tape and chewing gum.

My first choice is soldering, and insulating with good heat-shrink that already has hot glue inside. Second choice is quality crimp connectors, crimped correctly. I've always disassembled connectors to wire-brush or steel wool any corrosion on the terminals, then put them back together. Except for spray contact cleaner, I've never used any chemicals to clean terminals, although your idea about the vinegar is interesting (give it a try, and let us know if it works). Where possible, I'll replace a corroded terminal with a new one, and corroded wire should just be replaced.

Good luck on your rewiring project. It's not rocket science, and patience is your best friend.

 

[AllanD]

I did 98% of the necissary splicing to graft a 1993 4.0 into my 1987 Supercab with the heat shrinkable (and hot glue filled) crimp connectors.

I made it a point to put a bit of Penetrox (anti-corrosion conductive grease)
on each wire before inserting it in the crimp splices.

I could have soldered everything, but that would have taken
ten times as long as the job actually did.

and I'm good, damned good with a soldering iron...
But that was just too much work to consider.

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[Beanmachine7000]

I always solder everything... I also always make sure BEFORE I solder anything together the wires have a good mechanical connection, that way if the solder is compromised it won't completely fall apart... I also use the pre-glued heat shrink... I keep a large variety of electrical paraphernalia on hand (as I also build guitars) so it isn't much trouble for me to grab my stuff and go to town...

 

[AllanD]

The MASSIVE ammount of splicing on my swap it would have taken far longer than the three weeks it did take...

I wasn't simply swapping in a 4.0 I added:
1)a dual tank switch system
2)cruise control
3)the 1993 power distribution system
4)rewired my audio system
5)integrated the relay logic for my Fog & Driving lights into unused
relay sockets in the load center box (formerly for the ABS relays)
6)converted my tail lights to relay control
7)added a trailer connector INPUT to the front bumper so my
tail lights can be triggered by a tow vehicle...
(also through the relay system but isolated with diodes)I have an RV style
tow bar bracket on my truck so it can be flat towed.

It's been nearly two years and I haven't had a single electrical bug
related to a splice, I don't expect to either.

I did solder my high current (alternator output, battery & starter) wiring
because I find that even if left unsealed it's hard to create corrosion in
a solid block of moulded-in-place tin

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[OilPatch197]

Question about that Diode over by the ignition coil...

Mine rotted off years ago, now I FOUND another Diode that looks the same in the AC compressor wire harness. The AC no longer works, can I just use this AC diode over at the ignition coil area?

1984 Ford Ranger with a 2.8.

 

[Scrambler82]

No wire nuts !
No wire taps !
No twisted wires !

Take the time now and cut, wrap and solder the wires use Heat Shrink w/glue inside as others have suggested.

"Do it right the first time" and later on down the trail or street you will have a truck without electrical problems; well at least you will only have grounding problems.

 

[shadetree]

Ron Francis of Ron Francis wiring says this:

Unless you are very experienced in soldering techniques, do not solder anything. If the solder wicks up the wire strands furher than the connector itself, the stranded wire is solid, and it will break with vibration. This is why solid core wire is not used on cars.(As a side note, Chevy in the early 70's autos used solid aluminum wire on some models. Needless to say, it was discontinued after a couple years.)

Only solder large items such as battery cables.

Always crimp the connection, then solder. You want to get air space out, which can trap gasses caused by the solder and cause corrosion.

I use bare connectors and shrink wrap. It makes a clean, stong connection. If the connection must be extra strong, double shrink.

You must crimp the connectors correctly.

You must use the correct crimping tool.

Mashing the connectors with a pair of pliers, or hitting them with a hammer is not a crimp.

Crimped connectors are as strong as solder. If they weren't, all of the connector in the vehicles would be soldered from the factory which they are not. And, factory crimps seem to last quite a while.

Improperly connected wiring can set up resistance, which causes heat, which causes fire.

I also use a striping tool so as not to cut the strands and weaken the current carrying capablity of the wire.shady

 

[OilPatch197]

How do you put the hot glue in the heat shrink tubing?


Do I need to just do the ends, or do I just add glue until it oozes out the other side?

 

[shadetree]

How do you put the hot glue in the heat shrink tubing?
Do I need to just do the ends, or do I just add glue until it oozes out the other side?

Hot glue is not necessary. Just use the shrink. No need to get anal about a simple job. When you heat the shrink, the glue will squeeze out anyway, and the purpose of the shrink it to make the connection water/air tight. Don't know what Alan D was talking about.

As for the diode, yes you can use it. Get the polarity right.

The wire only needs to be cleaned if you are going to try to solder. I scrape them, but I don't know how many you have, and that might take a while. I do very little soldering on wiring.

I use Kaboom to clean pennies. Never tried it on wiring. Might work.shady

 

[Quiksurf]

the shrink tube they are talking about is marine grade shrink tube and the glue is already in the wall of the tubing. its not cheap, but the best seal you can make.

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

Ron Francis of Ron Francis wiring says this:

Unless you are very experienced in soldering techniques, do not solder anything. If the solder wicks up the wire strands furher than the connector itself, the stranded wire is solid, and it will break with vibration. This is why solid core wire is not used on cars.(As a side note, Chevy in the early 70's autos used solid aluminum wire on some models. Needless to say, it was discontinued after a couple years.)

Only solder large items such as battery cables.

Always crimp the connection, then solder. You want to get air space out, which can trap gasses caused by the solder and cause corrosion.

I use bare connectors and shrink wrap. It makes a clean, stong connection. If the connection must be extra strong, double shrink.

You must crimp the connectors correctly.

You must use the correct crimping tool.

Mashing the connectors with a pair of pliers, or hitting them with a hammer is not a crimp.

Crimped connectors are as strong as solder. If they weren't, all of the connector in the vehicles would be soldered from the factory which they are not. And, factory crimps seem to last quite a while.

Improperly connected wiring can set up resistance, which causes heat, which causes fire.

I also use a striping tool so as not to cut the strands and weaken the current carrying capablity of the wire.shady

 

[slownis]

Seem's like everyone has their own opinion on this. I'm actually a fan of twisted wire, solder, and heat shrink. Now, before you go cursing me, let me explain myself. The twisted wires must be twisted the correct way before soldering them.

Before twisting the wires together, you need a good amount of insulation stripped off of both ends you intend to connect together. Then, slide some heat shrink over one end. Here is the important part. Don't hold the wires in opposite directions and twist them together. Wires wrapped that way are easy to pull apart. Rather, you need to hold the wires together facing the same direction, and twist the metal strands together in that manner. Don't solder yet. Then, pull the insulated wires away from each other and wrap the twisted strands around the center, effectivly forming a small 'ball' of twisted wire with insulated wire on either side. Then apply solder to the ball, move the heat shrink over it and shrink it. Twisting and soldering and heat shrinking the wires this way gives you the strongest bond I've seen, and its not likely to break since its not over a 'length' of twisted wire. Plus you don't have to spend money on crimps, just solder and heat shrink.