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What all little things do I need for a V8 swap?


Dweano

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
1,075
City
Saskatchewan!
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Automatic
Hey guys, I am gearing up to do a V8 swap. But I am pretty burdened down with school so I wanna make sure I have all the parts ready before I get started. (Also it is a 70km round trip to the place I can hopefully work at)

Anyways. Based off of this thread

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/January2011/explorer-v8_95-97_ranger.shtml

I know I will need these things:

-headers
-oil filter adaptor and also an engine stud then?
-oil filter mount (is that the right term for where you screw on the filters?)
-oil cooler delete (basically just a hose from engine to radiator on both ends?)
-electric fans (any recommendations?)
-power steering hose from a 96 f150?

I plan to order alot of this from summitracing. So if anyone can help me that would be sweet. Main question I what headers will work? 96 explorer to a 96 ranger.

Also...I am using the expo and ranger mounts so I won't need those. Driveshafts will also be taken care of.
The engine stud confuses me a bit as well...female to male adaptor, any specific threads?

I know I ask alot of questions but I wanna make sure I don't half start a project then find out I got wrong things or did something wrong or what not. Thanks guys
 
Hopefully this is helpful for anyone in my situation in the future:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-1413
Looks like this will work, 2 inlets and outlets. Basically just plug one of each an inlet and outlet?

3/4 - 16 inch is the inlet? So that will be one end of the "adaptor"

OK moving on. The filter relocation kit...something like this?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g4985-1


OR...would this single item be all I need? I am a little confused about the adaptor and the mount and how they are different haha
der-15715


Headers: I think these will work for my situation:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88400/overview/make/ford
Pretty sure the shortys will work

These are the long tube equivalents I believe:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88300/overview/make/ford

I do not know if these will work with clearances tho. Anyone know? I will search google later.

Fans...dunno what to do about that. I wanna go with E-fan's. Not sure which one. Try to find a taurus E-fan? Buy from summit?

Edit: the long headers look like they won't fit. Clearance on the front driveshaft it looks like
 
U can buy fans frm james duff. And ul need radiator as well. I boight mine frm james duff. They are pricey but they tuck in under the grille support nicely. Im running mechanical fan and so far ive got some clearance. (Stil doing my swap) canton racing offer better oil filter relocation piece that screws to block. As it swivels so once u tighten it up u have play. They are pricey but nice. The one u found on jehs works. Ppl have problems with the hoses leaking. Im goin with hyd lines and hyd fittings on my truck. No cheap rubber hose. Dnt have clue on headers. Ive run 94 f150 driver side stock manifold and 77 f100 passenger side. The flanges are different but broke stud off in the 77 d/s manifold. It was trash. Dumps same angle same place as 94. U prolly want lift for trans clearance. Buy body lift kit it has all ul need besides bumper brackets. Less ur running 2wd. Then just stanb motor and trans as one piece. Radiator hoses can be bought for the build at james duff. 30 each. Not bad. Or build ur own. I just found them online. Dnt know if the hoses are exact fit. Read up a little or call before u buy. Run a trans coller if going with auto trans. And get ready for repeated headaches. This build of mine has been a nightmare but hopefully be soon ended. Any thing else i didnt cover?
 
On radiator. Ive heard 4.0 work frm ranger or explorer. Dnt knw yrs or if any fabbing is required. The james duff is direct bolt in
 
U can buy fans frm james duff. And ul need radiator as well. I boight mine frm james duff. They are pricey but they tuck in under the grille support nicely. Im running mechanical fan and so far ive got some clearance. (Stil doing my swap) canton racing offer better oil filter relocation piece that screws to block. As it swivels so once u tighten it up u have play. They are pricey but nice. The one u found on jehs works. Ppl have problems with the hoses leaking. Im goin with hyd lines and hyd fittings on my truck. No cheap rubber hose. Dnt have clue on headers. Ive run 94 f150 driver side stock manifold and 77 f100 passenger side. The flanges are different but broke stud off in the 77 d/s manifold. It was trash. Dumps same angle same place as 94. U prolly want lift for trans clearance. Buy body lift kit it has all ul need besides bumper brackets. Less ur running 2wd. Then just stanb motor and trans as one piece. Radiator hoses can be bought for the build at james duff. 30 each. Not bad. Or build ur own. I just found them online. Dnt know if the hoses are exact fit. Read up a little or call before u buy. Run a trans coller if going with auto trans. And get ready for repeated headaches. This build of mine has been a nightmare but hopefully be soon ended. Any thing else i didnt cover?

I used hydraulic hoses at first, they were so stiff (two wire Farmex) that the vibration and all around movement of the engine would unscrew them from both the adaptor on the block and the filter housing. I currently have 1/2 oil cooler hose and brass barb fittings and the engine is bone dry. The filter housing seems to have a very slight leak but it looks like it is from between the filter and housing, it is dry below the barbs.
 
The reason for part #1413 is the hose placement. On the single & dual filter kit, the block housing exits straight out, hitting the steering gearbox. The 1413 exits at a 90* from the block, as seen in the photo from my builds. As far as hoses, I've used two transdapt kits and one summit kit. My first transdapt kit is still working good, the second kit the brass swivel push-lok leaked at the swivel less than 100 miles into service. I was going to use hydraulic hose next, but haven't tried them. FYI, anytime you use fittings that have npt threads, Teflon tape is required. Headers, the headman 89500's will be your closest fit. I've heard the 88400's work, but can't confirm this. The oil filter cooler (block mount), needs to be removed as it will contact the gearbox. Ford uses a hollow bolt to attach the cooler to the block. In order for this to work, ford had to use female threads (like a nut) on the block so the hollow bolt will thread into it. Originally ford uses a male thread (like a bolt/stud) to allow the oil filter to attach to the block. Summit racing has these male thread adapters (I can get a part # if you need it) that just threads in place of the stock thread adapter. If you read my build threads again, the pics will help with this. I think I answered all of your questions, any more, just ask :icon_thumby:


SVT
 
89500 fit ok on a 4x4, 88400 fit great if you have a bodylift. Without I think the PS will be pointing at the firewall. I have 88400's on mine and aside from being a little tight with the block mounted dipstick I don't have any complaints.

There are pics of both types in the header thread at the top of this subforum. :icon_thumby:
 
I have a suspension and body lift haha. So maybe I will go with the 88400's. The #1413 will screw onto the block and point the hoses back. Where they will attach onto a filter mount right? Something of this nature?

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/trd-1028/overview/

Then I will likely use some brass fittings and oil hose? Any special kind? Oil cooler hoses? Hydraulic is pretty stiff.

I will admit I need that part # for the adaptor. I get the concept basically but I will need a number. I am ordering a big batch from summit so I might as well do it all at once. I will only get nailed with customs and border fees once then haha. Too bad there is no Canadian summit...I digress...

I am planning on using my 4.0L rad for the time being (only have so much money to spend on this project...) and then I am thinking Taurus E-fan...they flow alot of air. But I can't seem to find dimensions on them.
 
Oh and RangerSVT. I will likely have 100's of questions. Haha. I will read your thread again once the pics are back. More things I didn't use to get are making sense now that I am reading more and more about the swap. I think on Thanksgiving weekend (Canadian) I will be back at my parents farm where the Expo is, and I will hopefully get the engine and what not out
 
Ask away as you think of them, I'll be happy to answer and help you out. In the next couple weeks I will be swapping websites that host my pics so I won't have bandwidth issues. The links will be replaced once the pics are moved, but the way I'm going to do it they will still work through the transition...

SVT
 
Right on. That should be sweet. I like pictures. Things make alot more sense once I start tearing in and taking things apart. Visual Learner I guess. Here is the questions:

1. What part number do I need for the engine stud
2. The ECU...does the explorer and ranger one have the same pin. I can directly swap out the ECU's? I know the engine harnesses will hook up to the "body harness" but the ECU will also hook up to the Ranger body harness?
3. Is there a good way to go about lifting the 302 and 4.0l. Do they have any good mounting points to chain up to or anything?
4. If I take a dual sump oil pan from a suitable donor...will I also be able to use the oil pickup tube from said suitable donor. Are they pretty universal bolting up to...wherever they bolt up to.

OK I think that is all my embarrassing newbie questions outta the way haha
 
1. AAF-ALL92003
2. The plugs are the same, but not interchangeable. When you unbolt the 42 pin plug, the engine side of that harness is connected to the harness that goes to the ECU (you will know as soon as you see it), you remove the ECU from the firewall and the ECU, harness and motor stay together and come out.
3. I lifted the motor from the exhaust manifolds if you don't have the lift eyes/hooks on the motor (same for both motors). If you pull/install the motor and trans together on the 5.0, the upper intake plenum will need to be removed, which is covered in both builds...
4. Yes, any dual sump pan will work, and you can use the pickup tube that goes with it. I purchased a new pickup tube, I believe its called pickup screen at the parts store (in SVT's thread) and ain't expensive...

SVT
 
Alright thanks man! Thats what I needed to know. I figured by the pics that the manifolds was how you lifted them in and out. Upper intake will need to come off...maybe I will get new gaskets while I am at it. Or the intake spacer maybe...hmm....haha. I saw that pickup screen thing in the thread. I just wasn't sure if I needed a new one or not. If I am picking over a donor I might as well get two pieces with one trip I figure.

I am going to do my engine mounts the same way you did yours I think. Looks to be the cheapest way to do it. I upgraded to a one piece driveshaft and I have the rear off the expo so I should be good there as well...I think I will be placing an order soon
 

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