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welding to the pumpkin on 8.8?????


kamshaft

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Messages
170
City
appleton wi
Vehicle Year
88
Transmission
Manual
has any welded brackets to the cast part of the rear on an 8.8? i have a big ogmo bracket/brace/4 link mount that i made so i did not weld to the housing itself but have to redo some stuff on it and would like to refine it a bit and ditch the bracket and just weld my brackets straight to the top of the pumpkin can i do it? ik the tubes get welded to it so i figured itd be ok but strength wise i dont want my 347 twisting it out of there
 
I would stick with a low profile truss with the mounts on it.
 
12 bolt chevy/camaro guys have the same issue. In a car there is a lot less room which makes welding to the cast center necessary. If you aren't positive you know what you are doing welding to cast leave it alone or take it somewhere. If not done correctly your mounts will break off without too much effort. Most stuff is usually stick welded or tig, but there is some expensive high silicon content wire for a mig...not sure if I would use it on mounts though. If you have the room and it won't screw with your anti squat or instant center too much I would opt for the truss as well.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-non-hardcore/798746-built-8-8s.html
 
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I did it, I have a big welder and preheated first

this.

it can be done.. but it needs to be something that you know what you're doing. it's suspension we are talking about here... not something minor.
 
this.

it can be done.. but it needs to be something that you know what you're doing. it's suspension we are talking about here... not something minor.

If it was something minor like the floor pan or the parking brake cable we'd be using JB weld. Only the important stuff needs a real welder.
 
Why not put a 9" in it...?

They aren't as expensive as everyone tends to think.

Then you could do other fun stuff, like...
Ditch the leaves for a link setup, which yields all sorts of tire room. Then you could really plant that 347 to the ground.
 
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Why not put a 9" in it...?

They aren't as expensive as everyone tends to think.

they are if you shop like most people do... buy the first thing you see :icon_rofl:

key is to SHOP and have cash in hand and get the price down. :D
 
The 9" in my Ranger is the most expensive one we have ever bought, most we buy for $40-125. I paid $250 for mine, only because after months of searching, it was the first big bearing 31spl axle to be found.
 
pre-heat, proper rod 4066 ? cast ? or amalgamation rod (no idea of a number) heat crayon for correct temp, wrap with insulation and let cool SLOWLY !

personally a truss with axle points would be safer.

Greg
 
i ended up swapping a 9" w/ 3.70 gearz n a full spool narrowed it n had custom axles cut with 5x4.5 bolt pattern
 

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