weldin front dif solid..

[ranerjunkie03]

Can't afford a locker for my dana 44 but I can afford to barrow a good welder. Just wondering what might be some things to worry about... just welding spiders. If any one has had success and knows a few tricks please do share...
Thanks

 

[Boghog1]

is this going to be on a trail only rig? is it going to be driven on the street at all?

 

[ranerjunkie03]

Ya strickly trail. I just put manual hubs in ut so I would have a turning problem. But ys strickly trail.

 

[Boghog1]

Well get used to unlocking hubs on the trail unless you only go in a straight line. I still like a lunchbox over welding since they will allow slow speed turns.

 

[ranerjunkie03]

ima keep it in four wheel on the trail so the tires will always be getting power to turn em. does that not really matter?

 

[Boghog1]

unless the tires can spin at different speeds turning is difficult. Is the rear already locked? if not I would weld the rear and see how it goes.

 

[ranerjunkie03]

Ya the rears locked and I know how it is I just wasn't sure how the front would react... ill have to debate on it now I guess.... I would rather get a locker so I don't have to ninja rig it but being 18 and still in high and being a mechanic at a lawn mower shop don't pay enough yet.

 

[Boghog1]

lunchbox lockers can be found cheap or even a mini spool new and you can always turn around and sell it if you don't like how it handles

 

[Toms01PSD]

I've broke welded diffs before.

 

[ranerjunkie03]

lunchbox lockers can be found cheap or even a mini spool new and you can always turn around and sell it if you don't like how it handles

Ya very true.. i think ill go with the guess and check method and see how it does..

 

[BONES]

If you pull out the spider and side gears you can weld up between the gears that mesh, you fill all but 4 valleys on each gear, leaving 2 valleys opposite each other on each gear untouched. Pull your cover off a look at how the gears inside the carrier meash, you will basically weld where the gears aren't meshing and leave where the gears mesh alone, all done on the bench. This way your diff can still turn about a 1/16-1/8th or so of a turn alowing slightly easier steering, the gears aren't all welded together and the carrier is left untouched. I have heard it called a Fozzy locker before.

This method of welding the diff is a lot cleaner as well as easier, for one you have the gears on the bench for ease of welding and you also have the gears on the bench so no slag or spatter needs to be cleaned out of the carrier after welding.

That way if you break a spider or side gear you can pull the chunks out and slap another gear in there a go at it again. Did that make sense?

I have ran welded fronts on several trucks for years at a time, the traction provided by having the front locked with the rear, way out weighs the turning effort involved, IMO. Spool or mini spool is basically the same as welded only slightly stronger, no differentiation between the 2 tires on that axle. When you weld the diff you are essentially making it a big spool.

 

[Boghog1]

$75 for a mini spool is cheap and effective but that is my preference. I like to be able to reverse something. Personally I didn't care for the locker in the front of my jeep but it was also a driven to the trailhead rig

 

[ranerjunkie03]

If you pull out the spider and side gears you can weld up between the gears that mesh, you fill all but 4 valleys on each gear, leaving 2 valleys opposite each other on each gear untouched. Pull your cover off a look at how the gears inside the carrier meash, you will basically weld where the gears aren't meshing and leave where the gears mesh alone, all done on the bench. This way your diff can still turn about a 1/16-1/8th or so of a turn alowing slightly easier steering, the gears aren't all welded together and the carrier is left untouched. I have heard it called a Fozzy locker before.

This method of welding the diff is a lot cleaner as well as easier, for one you have the gears on the bench for ease of welding and you also have the gears on the bench so no slag or spatter needs to be cleaned out of the carrier after welding.

That way if you break a spider or side gear you can pull the chunks out and slap another gear in there a go at it again. Did that make sense?

I have ran welded fronts on several trucks for years at a time, the traction provided by having the front locked with the rear, way out weighs the turning effort involved, IMO. Spool or mini spool is basically the same as welded only slightly stronger, no differentiation between the 2 tires on that axle. When you weld the diff you are essentially making it a big spool.

No that's clear as night and day. And a really good idea.

How has it worked out for? Because that seems likepretty strong and effective idea. And yet still replacable..

 

[BONES]

It has worked out great, I have also done it to some buddies rigs as well and they are holding up strong so far, under fullsize trucks and healthy V8's and minimum 35's. It's obviously not as strong as a full spool or aftermarket locker that replaces the stock carrier but they have held up for years now. 2 of them have even held up to broken axles shafts while wheeling.

Certainly not for every one, but for the low budget guy looking for some added traction out of his wheeler, it can be the ticket mod for the time being.

I run spools front and rear in my BII now, having a better flow of dough these days and won't ever go back to open diffs for my style of wheeling.

 

[Andres629]

Well... let me just put in my $0.02 here. You can kiss your sidehilling abilities goodbye with a fully locked front. While I think it is an excellent idea, a welded front end is a lot more slippery on a sidehill, and can get you in a spot of trouble if you're not careful. Like I say, just my opinion, take everything with a grain of salt.