Weird ac issue

[killj0y]

You said the gauge numbers "check out" but what are they? If those vents are defaulting to defrost going uphill but revert back to normal on downhill you likely have a vacuum leak in the vent system, a completely different problem. If the air isn't going anywhere suspect a freeze up as mentioned up top on another post. I, too, doubt you got three bad low pressure switches. Rev the engine to about 1500 rpm and see what you have numbers-wise. Might be a bad clutch fan not cooling the rad and causing the high pressure switch to shut it down. If those high side numbers are high keep the condenser cold with a water hose and see if the numbers drop significantly- if they do it isn't being cooled properly. Oh- and if you jump the low pressure switch it still should cycle because of the thermostat- providing it is getting cool enough to trip off.

well I got some time to check it out properly and lucky me my mechanic friend was here visiting. We checked it out and let it run with the sensor and gauges hooked up. The readings were 40 on the low side and 240 to 275 on the high side. Only when revving past 2000 rpm or so would it cut out. So we figured out it was the high side pressure. We ended up checking with a little water and sure enough it dropped down considerably. Both our options were that the fan and clutch was working great so we decided it had to be the condenser clogged up. Guess I'll be evacuating it, replacing the condenser, flushing it, pulling a vacuum, and refilling. I would love to replace the whole system since the compressor has a tiny leak we noticed but finances won't allow for a new compressor, dryer, and orifice tube.

I'm glad you mentioned it's cycling. Without seeing it in front of me? Trust me, I've seen A/C bypassed and it really makes a mess if not done correctly and the other supporting sensors/switches are not 100%. Let us know the gauge readings--It's been a while, but I still get interested <G>

S-

Well the post above says it all fml lol

 

[killj0y]

Well it seems the leak its worse than I thought and perhaps could be the only problem actually. But seeing as how it's in the compressor it really doesn't matter lol. Anyways barely today it started cooling less checked the gauges again and it read a little low. Dropped a can with leak seal in and it worked again with the sensor attached. Called it a day for now.

Now before you guys say anything I don't like using junk like leak seal, but seeing ad the whole system will soon be redone. I don't see the danger in using it if it slows the leak a bit at least. When I get around to dealing with the problem proper I'm gonna install all new components anyways so f$ck it lol. Gauges read good now and it blows cold without cutting out. We'll sear how long it lasts.

 

[PanamaExpat]

Where on the compressor is the leak? I have suspected you were low on gas all along. As for the guys telling you it is supposed to cycle the compressor on and off to prevent evap icing....BALDERDASH. If an evap or the lines connecting to it are icing the system is low on gas PERIOD. I wonder how many of these guy have actually worked on AC systems.

There is a delicate balance on having enough gas and having too much gas. Here when we are charging a system that is icing you can actually watch the connectors at the condenser and the evap and when they quit icing you know you are getting close. You can actually watch the lines thaw out as it gets there. Then you calculate your superheat and delta.

Sorry guys I may do way more commercial and residential AC than I do automotive but the systems work exactly the same way.

Also besides the evap possibly icing due to low charge check those vacuum connections to the little storage canister on top of the AC air box. Mine was leaking and the blend door operation was sketchy due to that.

 

[adsm08]

The compressor will cycle, but it should be a minute or more of run time to a few seconds of being off.

And it doesn't cycle to prevent icing, it cycles to prevent exploding.