Washer fluid & power loss (not related)

[cubewhiz]

Two things:

1) Pushing the turn signal no longer spits out wiper fluid. What could be the problem here (it hasn't worked in years)?

2) Recently, I've noticed some loss of power? Acceleration seems a bit slower than usual, but I'm not sure why. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[feellnfroggy]

Run seafoam through your motor with a good oil change new wires and a fuel filter.


The wiper issues could be anything, the fluid hose could be broken or unattached. The fluid pump could be bad. You could be out of fluid. The electronics in the switch could need cleaning.

 

[MountainMike]

When you hit the switch can you hear the motor whine? That narrows it down from electrical or physical issues with the system.

 

[adsm08]

^What he said/

 

[cubewhiz]

no noise when pushing the button for the washer. (there is fluid in the reservoir. that would have been an easy fix ) maybe the pump?

 

[Tonka]

First check the fuse. If the fuse is good, further investigation is needed.

The wipers should automatically come on for a few strokes whenever you hit the washers on an '89 Ranger. So if you push inward on the end of the turn signal lever and nothing happens at all (with the key in the "run" position), the switch is bad. If the wipers do come on for a few strokes, it's either the wiring or the pump.

The pump is located inside the washer fluid tank, at the bottom. Pull the electrical connector off the pump, carefully with a screwdriver to hold up the little locking tabs.

Take a voltmeter, set it to DC volts and shove the probes inside the female holes in the end of the plug on the wiring harness. (It doesn't matter if you get the polarity wrong, it won't toast your voltmeter. Some might read negative, others will read zero. So try it both ways if you don't get any volts showing the first time.)

With the key in the run position, and the drivers window rolled down, reach in and push on the end of the turn signal. The wipers should come on and if the wiring is working, and you've got the polarity correct with the meter probes, you should be showing some voltage. The needle will go up, or a digital one will show 12+ volts.

If you're getting power at the plug, then the pump is bad. With the key off, what I just did was run a jumper wire over from the positive terminal on that relay by the battery, and a ground jumper from the aluminum power steering pump bracket, and first verify the jumper wires were delivering juice, by using the tester on the alligator clips.

Then I connected the aligator clips to the two male electrodes on the pump. I got a little spark when I touched them, but nothing else happened, regardless of polarity. (the pump has a DC electric motor, if you get the polarity backwards the motor will simply run backwards.) There was no buzzing sound, so I know the pump is bad.

Another possible failure could simply be crap inside the nozzles. Several times in the winter, I've had to thaw the washer fluid nozzles on my 18 wheeler when I was trying to drive in an ice storm. I stopped at a rest area and opened the hood, climbed up on top of the left front tire and just quickly waved a propane torch back and forth across the nozzles until I saw a drop of fluid come out, then I quickly jumped in the truck and hit the washers to flush out the water before it could re-freeze. Washer fluid contains glycol (antifreeze). Then I climbed back up on the engine to get to the passenger side nozzle and did the same thing.

Right now I'm about to go to the auto parts store and get a replacement washer fluid pump.

 

[Tonka]

1989 Ranger washer fluid pump: $21 at Bumper To Bumper Auto Parts.
Also get pre-mix antifreeze and washer fluid. And get hose clamps if there aren't already some on the coolant overflow hose that goes to the overflow tank.

Remove the washer fluid/coolant overflow tank.
Wash out the inside of the overflow tank if it's got crap in there.

With a flathead and needlenosers, rip the spikey ring thing out. Grab the pump however you can with regular pliers and try pulling it out. Mine broke into several pieces and I had to dig it out.

When you get the remains of the pump out, there should be nothing but plastic in that hole. Wash out any rust or debris but don't use anything but a blast of water from the house. No abrasives that'll scratch the plastic.

Shove the new one in the hole and push it til it won't go in any further.

Before you put the new spikey ring thing in there, test for leaks by putting some water in the tank while holding your thumb over the hose nipple. No leaks, put the spikey thing in there. A few swear words might be necessary.

Reinstall the tank/reservoir and put two little dabs of dielectric terminal grease in the electrical plug before you snap it into the pump. Make sure there are hose clamps holding the coolant overflow hose on, but don't over-tighten them because of the plastic nipples.

Refill the coolant overflow and washer fluid tank and you're good to go.