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want to upgrade battery "system"


baxtej44

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2009
Messages
1,794
City
Omaha, Nebraska
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
bought some new terminals today, and want to get some new cables too.


wasn't sure how much of the electrical i should replace, so i didn't buy any cables while I was at autozone...

if somebody could hook me up with a website that they have used before, that'd be great. i don't mind cutting wires to fit, crimping, etc... but i am no electrician.. so keep that in mind.


and, opinions on how much of cable i should replace? my positive goes to the front right fender (as you're sitting in the truck facing forward), to what I think is the starter relay? it goes underneath a bolt and then from there i'm not sure.

negative supposedly goes to the engine for a ground, correct?



i've also got smaller wires coming the negative, should i replace these as well? and can they all go into the same "hole" on the battery terminal? i bought a terminal with a bigger "hole" to be able to fit everything, as I also have to put in a 4g amp wiring kit soon. (speaking of that, does anybody know any stock holes in the firewall that will work? i haven't looked into it, but just to see if anybody knows... i have no power locks or windows, but i do have a/c)
 
negative supposedly goes to the engine for a ground, correct?

i've also got smaller wires coming the negative, should i replace these as well? and can they all go into the same "hole" on the battery terminal? i bought a terminal with a bigger "hole" to be able to fit everything

Make sure that three things have good direct connection to the battery (-) Negative terminal- the engine; the body; and the frame. The typical setup on an older Ranger is one heavy ground cable going through an eyelet on the frame, then to the engine block. And a second ground cable going to the radiator support or inner fender. Your best bet is check the original ground cable arrangement before you take it apart, and then duplicate all of the connection points with new parts as needed. Good luck.
 
www.quickcable.com

The site should help you find a dealer near you and has alot of great how to video.
I use their stuff all the time.The store I manage is a QuickCable dealer but the owner isnt interested in becoming a vendor on TRS.I have tried to talk him into it for the last few months but he wont budge.
Hope this helps.
 
www.quickcable.com

The site should help you find a dealer near you and has alot of great how to video.
I use their stuff all the time.The store I manage is a QuickCable dealer but the owner isnt interested in becoming a vendor on TRS.I have tried to talk him into it for the last few months but he wont budge.
Hope this helps.

okay well since you are familiar with the product, what would you suggest?

cable size, connector type, etc etc...


like i said, i want to replace the battery cables (positive and negative), and i will also have a 4g amp wiring kit hooked up, so i need space for whatever size battery cable you suggest and the 4g kit.
 
where the positive cable goes(the lower of the two red cables comes directly from the battery, and goes to be bolted under neath that bolt):
oldpositiveterminal.jpg


negative terminal and where the negative cable goes:
oldnegativeterminal.jpg


new connector (are these okay?):
oldnegativeterminal.jpg
 
I would use 1 to 2 GA for ground and power.
Use a good crimp or solder type Battery terminal,not the bolt together type.Heat shrink all your terminal connections.
For ground I would go from the battery to the frame then to the engine block with the 1-2 gauge then to the body with 6-4 gauge (or stay with 1-2)
For the hot to the solenoid 1-2 gauge and from the same side of the solenoid go to a fused distribution block for all of your heavy loads.From the other side of the solenoid go to the starter with the 1-2 gauge.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i205_power-distribution-blocks.html


You can go to this site to find a DEKA dealer near you they will have the good terminal ends and heat shrink.

http://www.dekabatteries.com/default.aspx?pageid=10
 
I would use 1 to 2 GA for ground and power.
Use a good crimp or solder type Battery terminal,not the bolt together type.Heat shrink all your terminal connections.
For ground I would go from the battery to the frame then to the engine block with the 1-2 gauge then to the body with 6-4 gauge (or stay with 1-2)
For the hot to the solenoid 1-2 gauge and from the same side of the solenoid go to a fused distribution block for all of your heavy loads.From the other side of the solenoid go to the starter with the 1-2 gauge.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i205_power-distribution-blocks.html


You can go to this site to find a DEKA dealer near you they will have the good terminal ends and heat shrink.

http://www.dekabatteries.com/default.aspx?pageid=10

so it's a no on compression type battery terminals?

and i don't quite understand why i'm putting a distribution block off of my starter solenoid (is that what is pictured above on pic number 1?)





can i just do

negative to block
negative to sidewall (where it is currently now in pic number 2)
positive to starter solenoid
starter solenoid to starter (i'd probably not be able to do this on my own, so it'd probably be last on my list to do... is it a must?)
 
Last edited:

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