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Walker Flexas Ranger.......yes another one!


There is no weight on the rear stands,they just there as a safety.
 
I just put em back there incase after a couple beers somebody decided to to jump up into the bed...
 
Well its back on the ground now.Everything took longer than I thought but turned out great.

Housing brace welded on.


Rebuilt the pig with all new bearings and seals,full spool,reused the factory 3.50 gears and got a perfect pattern.It had .022 backlash before I tore it down and I ended up with .010 after I was done.


Welded brackets on and put disc setup on.




I then installed it under truck,squared it up,bent up all new brake lines and hit it with some fresh paint.

Feels real good to have that huge part checked off my list! Starting on the doubler tonite and maybe pick at some wiring stuff also.

..oh and I picked these up as well.
 
that is a big part of the build...mine has been apart in the garage since last frickin december!! just cant work up the motivation to finish it. maybe you can come down and finish for me lol
 
Rough weekend but I got another major project almost wrapped up.

Started the doubler build.

I tore open the BW1354e I had to steal the 6 pinion planetary to upgrade the 4 pinion in the doubler but found out pre-93 they are all 4 pinion and my case was a 1990. Oh well.

I tore down the other BW1350 goin in the truck and found the oil pump was messed up. The retainer that holds the pump stationary so it dont spin with the mainshaft got broke some how and that allowed the pump to spin and rip the hose off the pickup.


I really dont see how this would have broke off other than somebody had the case open and didnt install the retainer correctly and it got broke that way. The broke off tab was laying inside the case so I just welded it back together.


So after the BW1350 was all back together I put the doubler together...what a PITA. For some reason the 5 bolts that hold the clocking ring to the main case were the wrong thread right from D&D so I just made it to hardware store to get the correct replacements before they cloesed. Also the 10 allen bolts that go inside to the clocking ring...they can die in a fire{not meant for fat guy hands}. But its all together and I had an extra c4 tail housing so I decided to build all my linkage and shifters on the bench rather than after its installed.



And I replaced the output yoke on the main box to the larger yoke off the BW1354


Should have everything ready to install this evening.

Some things I noticed today that I have never heard addressed before about the D&D doubler...
1. How the hell are you suppose to fill the doubler box? There is no room to even get a allen wrench on the fill plug to remove it.I plan to fill mine through the breather on the bench before I install it.But how much it take?

2.The main case shifter arm hits the doubler and had to be removed to put the two together. You cant reclock the arm to make it work so I just cut it apart and welded it together 90º from where it was.
 
One of these days I will make a doubler with my spare t-case.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk
 
Yeah the internal Allen head screws that hold the 2 cases together are a PITA! Make sure you put a good coat of thread locker and also seal everything extremely well! Trust me the last thing you want to do is have to tear them apart again just to get a good seal. On your doubler plate on the crawl box there should be 3 flush mount Allen head plugs. Bottom drain, middle fill, top is breather. What I recommend is using the old breather hole as the fill point and drill and tap the crawl box on top and put the breather there. If you don't want to do that you can pull the breather out, and put about 1.5 quarts of fluid in it (maybe a bit less more like a quart) and then put the breather back in. Also you can use the 3 plugs on the doubler plate and make a sight gauge from the bottom to the top plug to see how much is in there.
 
I used a single plate to build my doubler... I had to run all the bolts down at the same time...one thread at a time. I will never take it apart again.lol. I fill mine through the indicator switch hole. I also made a sight glass on the plate.

If i fill it past the shift arm shaft it leaks.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
 
Yeah know what the three allen plugs were for.I used the top one for my vent and I left the middle one out as a reminder to fill it.Well after everything was bolted together I could finger start the fill plug but there was no way to get a allen wrench on it because the main case was to close. I ended up using a pipe plug with a hex head and had to grind it down just to fit it between the two boxes.Once it was started I could use a open end wrench to tighten it.

So far my plan to fill and maintain it is to use the breather hose.The hose will route up to a breather tank on cage and I can slowly refill it through there.

I seen the sight tube thing and I was going to try that but honestly there isnt enough room in there for it.

Every bolt was put in with red Locktite and I used Permatex grey for gear oil (green label)as my sealer. Kind of a new product and I love it,never had a leak with that stuff.
 
Cool sounds like you just about ready to crawl!
 
Well the front axle is finish except for my lockouts. Im goin to get truck up and running with some drive flanges but plan to get some Warn hubs and the RCV 30 spline adapters later.

I replaced every bearing,seal,brake parts,ball joints{moog} and installed my RCV shafts.



Should be back under truck this weekend and hopefully start on the steering.
 
Been busy since my last update but things are moving along. Im currently waiting on my order from RuffStuff to show up with all my steering parts.

Front axle is back under truck and the high steer arms are on and I put some limiting straps on.



I also finally got all my shifters in.Handles all finished up as well.

Still waiting on a boot tho. The doubler is push down/pull up operation so I used a rubber firewall grommet as the boot/seal.
Next I needed to mount my Hurst Pistol grip shifter for the C4 trans.I wanted it raised up off the floor so it was in a easy to reach position so I built a 5" tall stand to mount it to.

Then I drilled holes in floor and welded in nuts to bolt it down. Covered it in some aluminum to finish it off.



I left the ends of the stand open so I can run all my wiring through it to hide since my fuse block and relays are mounted behind the seat. I also got rid of the reverse lock out on the shifter so it only locks out Park now and I modified the shift plate so it can be shifted from forward gears to reverse in one quick action.
 
Pretty sweet, what's left before you drive it?
 

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