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volume of air question


sorry for the mass questions not used to working on newer motors i know all the new parts but not really how they fully interact with everything else.


so if i remove the part of my K&N thats necked down and mount the MAF on a part thats a larger dia it will auto correct for air flow. :icon_idea:


i was kinda thinking it be the same differance as drivng around at 20 degress vs 100 degress out side
 
replacing the housing will likely cause drivability problems. when i said "changes to the stock housing" i meant modifying the stock housing (usually on the older styles that use a big post in the middle of the cast housing).
 
mmmm brb i go look at it real quick:icon_bounceblue:
 
i talked to mike (maybe) the guy that answers the phone when you call underdog performance he said that if you increast the size of the maf you have to reprogram it, untrue :icon_confused:
Only if you swap in a larger MAF. I modded my stock MAF (removed the center post), and didn't have to do anything else. That was 70,000 miles ago. I did hear of one case where the mod didn't work out, but it turns out that the guy did the mod wrong, so you can't blame it on the MAF mod itself.

But if you mod your MAF and it doesn't work out it's no big deal... replacement bodies are available for cheap at the junkyard.
 
ok its all rubber and plastic from the TB to the MAF is a 2.5ish''od rubber tubing the MAF is all plastic and is part of the top of the air filter.

idk bout the actually ID but the MAF and the TB seem to the eye to be the same dia, so i would have to increase both not just MAF casue then it will get "stuck" at the TB.

am anywere close
 
yes, you have the new style MAF which is already an advantage over the old design.

i dont know the size of the factory MAF (either the old or new), but they are usually matched pretty closely to the TB (50mm stock).
 
ok so i guess im not touching it .....lol

unless i can bore out the plastic K&N intake at the "necked down" part and the TB to match but it seems like alot of work for a lil gain. and tho i have access to the CNC machines to do it. it goes beyond the afternoon scope.

o well
 
thanks for the info props given were needed.
 
McCormack; and they have absolutely zero real-world experience with doing those types of mods to their own vehicles[/QUOTE said:
Butt dyno or chassis dyno? Just looking for the facts and the science, not the perception.
 
If you have a tuner get the bigger MAF sensor its great like McCormack said it gives 6hp with just the MAf housing and with the tune it gives us 04+ guy's 11.43hp and 11.88tq its a great mod for the +04 especially since the MAF housing is like trying to breathe through you nose with one nostril closed. I have one and yes dont run it stock as it will detonate like crazy on the stock tune but once you get that baby tuned its a decent little increase. My power band is a little bigger and a lot smoother

And heres the dyno also includes the under drive pulley from underdog

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=217127
 
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thank you for your input, i always like to hear from people with the parts actually on the truck, but i look at it this way K&N intake 10 hp at $300 so its 30 per. vs $660 for a tuner and the new maf kit, thats over double at $66 per hp. lol i dont need 10 hp that bad thanks tho
 
just a K&N intake will not net you 10hp off the bat it might add up to a 10hp increase overall if you port your heads and do all the intake work. SO basically if you did all that work and had the stock intake on and let say you got about 10hp from upper and lower intake porting and then you put the K&n then you might see a 20hp (of course just random numbers) gain over stock all together. if you just put the intake on you might see around a 3hp gain or so and smoother power band and maybe a little bit bigger power band.
 
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never believe a dyno sheet provided by the manufacturer. they are trying to sell a product...they always exaggerate their claims.
 
well wouldnt there be legal issues if it was that far from the truth.
 

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