Voltage Stablizer Install Results

[outomyelement]

Hey all, i just installed a voltage stabilizer and I noticed a few things.

Pros: My stereo light is brighter and consistent (its old and I don't use it for anything other than the time).

My headlight brightness doesn't fluctuate with the RPMS.

My dash lights are brighter and even.

Cons: the stupid blue blinking light under my hood.

I've also noticed that my RPMS stay higher longer when I come to a stop. I'm not sure if this is related though.

Bought it for less than 20$ including shipping on eBay.

Kevin

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

Uh-oh. Looks like another ebay scam. You know your truck comes with a "voltage stabilizer" from the factory, right? It's called a "voltage regulator". (Imagine that!!!!) It's mounted on the alternator.

If your lights were dimming at idle it sounds like you need a new voltage regulator or you have too much load (read "too many extra lights and amps") for the alternator and need a bigger one.

The best thing this contraption could do is nothing. The worst it could do is screw up the voltage and destroy the electronics on your truck - the slow tach would be your first indication.

I'm all for modifying one's vehicle, but there's a difference between mods that actually accomplish something and bolting ebay scam crap onto one's vehicle....

Judging by your signature, you seem to be a real believer in the ebay scam parts. Vortex this and vortex that..... Yeah.....

 

[smallello]

X2!!

 

[locovaca]

If I had to guess, it's probably a large, cheap capacitor to help temporarily smooth out the dips in voltage due to excessive load. But yeah, if you're getting dips you need to reduce consumption or increase production.

Now, if you were only occasionally dramatically exceeding the current out of your alternator a capacitor is what you need, but what you have is a dying alternator. I had a Sentra which did that- at idle and with the turn signal going my dash light would blink in time with the turn signal. Take it in to Autozone and have them test it.

 

[outomyelement]

I don't have a problem with excessive loads. I'm don't even run a stereo.

I am under the impression from reading somewhere that fluctuations in the headlights by RPM's can be fixed by a voltage stabilizer (Iocovaca, basically a large cap). I've seen things specifically that go in-line to your headlights to even that out. I suppose if people were just trying to sell something, then they wouldn't mention that's a symptom of a alternator going bad...

I don't have a tach... Is there another way to tell if the alternator is going bad? I haven't had any problems other than what's mentioned above for the last 16K miles. Could it really take this long for it to go bad? Could it be the voltage regulator on the alternator?

Listen, it's not like i'm putting a lift kit on a 2WD vehicle... I will admit, I don't notice any difference from the magnetic filter adaptor or vortex intake generator. Both of those have had mixed reviews all over the web -- so some people are seeing a difference. I noticed Sevensecondsuv, you have "turbocharged and intercooled, M5OD-R1 w/ CF dual friction clutch, .48 T3, 220 cfm DP head " blah blah blah -- I don't have a garage or tools to do all that (nor the money). I'm ok with spending 20 here and 20 there to see if things work.

Everybody's got an opinion. I lean more towards experience than sheep-hood. Of course I'm going to do things that don't work sometimes.

 

[locovaca]

Headlights don't cause fluctuations. They are a constant consumer. The two biggest things that cause fluctuations on a car's electrical signal:

1. Drops in alternator output due to rpm changes (which is what the voltage regulator is for)
2. Oversized audio system (which is what capacitors are for)

Based on your description, #2 is out. So that leaves the alternator either being worn out or the regulator going.

Do you have a multimeter? If so, connect it to your cig lighter or some other constant source and watch it as your drive, it should generally be steady. Then compare that to idle, it should still be steady. If it's fluctuating around I'd definitely suspect the alternator.

Or let's put it this way: if you have stock headlamps, they draw 55 Watts apiece. Combined that's just under 10 amps. A stock alternator puts out 95 amps. So just your headlamps alone, takes up only 10% of a system designed to power a fully tricked out V6 with power-everything + fog lamps. You're not coming anywhere close to maxing out that alternator.

 

[outomyelement]

I'll monitor my voltage levels with a multimeter. I already have a line running to the battery, I just have to re-connect it. It must be the alternator/regulator, I always noticed the lights inside and out dimming without pushing on the gas. There's no way to just replace the regulator without the alternator, right?

Thanks!

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

Ok. So maybe I was a bit harsh. All I was saying is that if your alternator and voltage regulator are working correctly, you shouldn't notice any dimming of the headlights at idle. I would definately make sure the stock parts are working right before turning to an "ebay remedy".

The vortex throttle body spacers will make a noticable difference on some throttle body injection engines. But they don't do a thing on multiport injection engines like every ranger since 1986 has come with.

I'm also not saying that everything on ebay is crap or a scam. I got my intercooler set up off ebay and it's been great.

I also read your thread on the fatmat sound deadener, that looks like really good stuff and you did a great job on the install.

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

You should be able to just replace the regulator.

http://www.autozone.com/N,15700097//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm

 

[locovaca]

Also, your final test to verify it's the alternator is to monitor the voltage with the car off. If it was something other than the alternator, it would cause fluctuations with the engine off and running off of battery voltage. You could even disconnect the alternator and go a mile or so to further test your theory (But don't run it too long unless you like pop-starting your car )

 

[rboyer]

I strongly suggest that you post on here asking if something works before buying into it. That 20 dollars here and 20 dollars there spent on ebay scams will eventually add up to a pile of regret. The only things I see in your signature that were worth the purchase are maybe the plugs/wires and the air filter. The money spent on the other stuff could have been used to buy you a new voltage regulator which IS worth the purchase.

 

[outomyelement]

Ok. So maybe I was a bit harsh. All I was saying is that if your alternator and voltage regulator are working correctly, you shouldn't notice any dimming of the headlights at idle. I would definately make sure the stock parts are working right before turning to an "ebay remedy".

The vortex throttle body spacers will make a noticable difference on some throttle body injection engines. But they don't do a thing on multiport injection engines like every ranger since 1986 has come with.

I'm also not saying that everything on ebay is crap or a scam. I got my intercooler set up off ebay and it's been great.

I also read your thread on the fatmat sound deadener, that looks like really good stuff and you did a great job on the install.

No problem. To your credit, my dash lights went out tonight with the headlights in the on position... they strangely go back on when i flip it over to marker lights mode...

 

[outomyelement]

I strongly suggest that you post on here asking if something works before buying into it. That 20 dollars here and 20 dollars there spent on ebay scams will eventually add up to a pile of regret. The only things I see in your signature that were worth the purchase are maybe the plugs/wires and the air filter. The money spent on the other stuff could have been used to buy you a new voltage regulator which IS worth the purchase.

Roger that, captain.

 

[outomyelement]

You should be able to just replace the regulator.

http://www.autozone.com/N,15700097//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm

Thanks for the link!

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

No problem. To your credit, my dash lights went out tonight with the headlights in the on position... they strangely go back on when i flip it over to marker lights mode...

Been there, done that with my explorer. It ended up being the headlamps relay fuse was blown. I'd check your fuses.