2.3L ('83-'97) Voltage gauge reading high

[Shotrod69]

‘93 ranger 2.3.
voltmeter used to stay right in the middle of “nomal” on the gauge. Now it’s at the “L” the radio is also shutting off momentarily at seemingly random, however I don’t know if that’s connected to this.

just looking for things to test and how to do them.

 

[Bgunner]

Check the terminals at the battery for voltage while running. It should not read any higher than 14.8V if it is then the voltage regulator in the alternator went bad.

12.2 usually when not charging and anywhere up to 14.8 when charging a low battery.

Radio is most likely a separate issue.

 

[Cowboy Jim]

If its high, sounds like your alternator is going full field. Have you put a DVOM on it to read exactly what its reading? And also am I correct to assume this is only when the engine is running or ?

 

[Shotrod69]

In a reply to all. It was the battery terminal connectors. I managed to find a place to stop, tested voltage and it was 15.5V. Then I stalled the truck trying to drive away and lost all power. Wiggles the ground and it was loose and broken.
Figured this out and didn’t know how to delete a thread, sorry.

 

[RonD]

Just FYI, over 15volts will ruin your 12volt battery, literally "cooks" it

Battery's sole, and only, purpose in a car/truck is to start the engine
After startup all electric power comes from alternator, at minimum 13.5volts

A car/truck battery will be 12.8v to 13volt when brand new
12.5volt after 3 years or so
12.3v after 5 to 6 years and time to shop for battery sales
12.2v and lower is a "dead" battery, just hasn't stranded you yet

Alternators work based on "push back" in the electrical circuits in the vehicle
Push back is what happens when you turn on a 50watt(4amp) light bulb
The bulb sucks in the 50watts of electricity when turned on but the once its on it "pushes back" to just stay using 50watts(4amps) of power

Engine is running and Alternator is on, and lets say vehicle needs 40amps of electricity, alternator cranks out amps until it gets push back, at 40amps and then stays at 40amp output, that's what voltage regulator does reads push back
If you turn on driving lights, 10amps, push back DROPS and voltage regulator adds more amps until it gets push back again and its now outputting 50amps

Now when you start the engine the battery gets drained, takes 60-75amps to crank an engine, so battery has a lower push back, it needs amps to recharge
So just after startup you might see voltage from the alternator at 14.8volts, but ONLY for a few minutes until battery has been recharged
Then the battery starts to push back and voltage regulator drops amp output down to only what vehicle electrical system requires, so should be under 14volts, 13.8v to 14.2v depending on year and how many amps it needs

If battery is failing or voltage regulator is then voltage above 14.8v may be seen even after a 10 min drive, this is bad for a good battery and bad for the vehicles electrical systems as well

 

[Curious Hound]

Figured this out and didn’t know how to delete a thread, sorry.

Don’t be sorry. We want the thread here so others can learn from it.

 

[Shotrod69]

Just FYI, over 15volts will ruin your 12volt battery, literally "cooks" it

Battery's sole, and only, purpose in a car/truck is to start the engine
After startup all electric power comes from alternator, at minimum 13.5volts

A car/truck battery will be 12.8v to 13volt when brand new
12.5volt after 3 years or so
12.3v after 5 to 6 years and time to shop for battery sales
12.2v and lower is a "dead" battery, just hasn't stranded you yet

Alternators work based on "push back" in the electrical circuits in the vehicle
Push back is what happens when you turn on a 50watt(4amp) light bulb
The bulb sucks in the 50watts of electricity when turned on but the once its on it "pushes back" to just stay using 50watts(4amps) of power

Engine is running and Alternator is on, and lets say vehicle needs 40amps of electricity, alternator cranks out amps until it gets push back, at 40amps and then stays at 40amp output, that's what voltage regulator does reads push back
If you turn on driving lights, 10amps, push back DROPS and voltage regulator adds more amps until it gets push back again and its now outputting 50amps

Now when you start the engine the battery gets drained, takes 60-75amps to crank an engine, so battery has a lower push back, it needs amps to recharge
So just after startup you might see voltage from the alternator at 14.8volts, but ONLY for a few minutes until battery has been recharged
Then the battery starts to push back and voltage regulator drops amp output down to only what vehicle electrical system requires, so should be under 14volts, 13.8v to 14.2v depending on year and how many amps it needs

If battery is failing or voltage regulator is then voltage above 14.8v may be seen even after a 10 min drive, this is bad for a good battery and bad for the vehicles electrical systems as well

It was making 15.5v because the battery was basically not hooked up while it was running. It’s makes a steady 14.5v with new battery connectors.