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Vibration, shaking steering wheel after front wheel bearing/brake job


Something is wrong here. If things fit fine before you install something, and the don't after, you have a major issue with the new parts (or the install) someplace. This is a lesson I've learnt the hard way before... parts never "suddenly" quit fitting correctly without a reason.

If I read correctly, you replaced the rotors? I wonder if the tone rings are off? Or the wrong tone rings to begin with? Do they match the old rotor's rings?

Just tossing some ideas out here...
 
Ratdude I agree with your idea.

The new parts must have a different offset on the tone ring on the new rotor.

Side by side comparison might reveal the difference.

Ray
 
Solved

I purchased Centric brand rotors today from another parts store with new seals, and installed them on the truck this evening and solved the problem. The problem was either with the bearing races that were pressed into rotor, or the machining on the rotor itself. I reused the original bearings since I had barely driven on them. The original bearings had no problems.

There was definitely a wobble in the original rotors. I took a dial indicator and measured the side of the rotor, and was getting .008" of run-out. When I put the new rotors on, I measured the same spot and was getting about .001" of run-out...

First time I've ever seen something like this. Won't be the last...

Thank you to everyone who took the time to help me out and give advice. That really helped me out. Thank you!
 
I feel guilty for not jumping in and advocating rotor issues. 'Have you measured the runout?!?!?!', I wanted to shout. Alas, I did not...glad you sorted it out!

Picture clicked when I saw it...tone ring was hitting occasionally. Makes perfect sense now.
 
It was damaged in shipping, I'd bet.
 
I used to believe you had to take the races out of the new rotors and replace it with the ones that came with the bearing. Until I saw how bearings were made. Maybe 75 years ago the bearing was matched to the race. Today, they make a thousand races and a thousand bearings, slap them together, box them, and ship. So for the last twenty years or so I have not bothered to replace them.

I've never had a problem.

That may be true of bearings of the same brand... But bearings of different brands (especially ones coming in off the boat from China, which virtually all (if not all) races that are pre-installed in even the best rotors are chinese) are far less likely to match well.

But yeah, "Rotor runout!" was my thought while reading this too. Glad to hear it was resolved.

Exactly why I always recommend buying good quality name-brand parts for your vehicle (made in USA if possible... or Japan, as applicable), even if you have to resort to mail/internet ordering to get them.
 
That may be true of bearings of the same brand... But bearings of different brands (especially ones coming in off the boat from China, which virtually all (if not all) races that are pre-installed in even the best rotors are chinese) are far less likely to match well.

But yeah, "Rotor runout!" was my thought while reading this too. Glad to hear it was resolved.

Exactly why I always recommend buying good quality name-brand parts for your vehicle (made in USA if possible... or Japan, as applicable), even if you have to resort to mail/internet ordering to get them.

Good point, well stated, Ed
 

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