vavoline nex-gen recycled oil?

[85_Ranger4x4]

Anything will last a really long time if you rarely use it yet still maintain it.

Until you start dumping something into it that breaks up the decades worth of buildup.

I wasn't trying to portray that they would last longer if you ran non-detergant, just that it wouldn't be a great idea to change late in the game.

 

[exbass94]

I agree that you shouldn't switch to a modern oil after non-detergent has been ran in it for decades. That's basically the only time I do recommend non-detergent. But in a fresh rebuild, you'd have to be insane to not run a modern oil.

 

[noahkenny]

You can look at it this way. Engines with an oil filter use detergent oil. And most engines without and oil filter recommend non detergent oil. You really have no use for the detergent unless your trying to suspend the debris for the filter to catch it. Most small air cooled engines without a oil filter call for non detergent oil. Compressors also. And as far as oil wearing out it doesnt. Oil is a suspension media for the additives which actually do all the work of protection. Oil by itself is pretty useless. And you cant tell the oils condition just by looking at it. Just because its black doesnt mean its worn out. I change oil in natural gas generators that is as clean at its recommended oil change interval as it is when it is new. Modern day oil additives are so advanced that oil or viscosity break down is no longer an issue. And that 7500 and 10000 mile oil you see on the shelves just have more additives than standard oil. Cant say Im much of a believer in synthetic oils, I guess they have there place. Every oil manufacture has a different blend in additives but they all have to meet api guidelines. Some people are real believers in what brand of oil they use. 20 years ago they may have been noticable differences in brands but no longer. If you really want to learn a lot about oils go to your local oil change business. There is usually someone there who has some schooling on the subject. Most of the time its the owner. I have a friend who owns a texaco express who can tell you anything you want to know about the subject. Personally I still try to stay in the 3 or 4 thousand mile range between changes but I do stretch them sometimes and dont really worry about it. Oil is cheap insurance.

 

[exbass94]

You can look at it this way. Engines with an oil filter use detergent oil. And most engines without and oil filter recommend non detergent oil. You really have no use for the detergent unless your trying to suspend the debris for the filter to catch it. Most small air cooled engines without a oil filter call for non detergent oil. .

Name one small-engine manufacturer that still recommends non-detergent. The whole "if it has a filter use detergent, if it has no filter use non-detergent" method is severely outdated and obsolete.

If you really want to learn a lot about oils go to your local oil change business. There is usually someone there who has some schooling on the subject. .

I usually find mechanics, especially quick lube techs, if you can even call those guys mechanics, don't know dick about oil and are usually the last people you want to ask for oil advice. Just my experience.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I usually find mechanics, especially quick lube techs, if you can even call those guys mechanics, don't know dick about oil and are usually the last people you want to ask for oil advice. Just my experience.

They know more than you think, but because people will hold them liable for what they think is bad advice they usually push the name brands to be safe.

"You sold me the cheap stuff knowing you would get an overhaul out of it."

They have a thankless job, they always charge too much and use every oppertunity to screw the customer... according to the customer anyway.

Meanwhile I just got done paying the dentist $350/hour for a little epoxy and a whole lot of pain for two hours. And people throw a fit at our painless $60/hour equipment repairs.

 

[noahkenny]

Name one small-engine manufacturer that still recommends non-detergent. The whole "if it has a filter use detergent, if it has no filter use non-detergent" method is severely outdated and obsolete.


I usually find mechanics, especially quick lube techs, if you can even call those guys mechanics, don't know dick about oil and are usually the last people you want to ask for oil advice. Just my experience.

Well I know the push mower I bought just this past year which happens to have a Briggs on it says 30 wt non detergent oil. NO oil filter, really no use for detergent..BUT it doesnt really matter in this day and age because of additive technology. And I never said the oil change techs were the ones to talk to. They are a few of them that are professional at their job but a lot of them are just oil changers. But there will be at least one person there who is qualified or they wouldnt be in business..
Some all you guys make a damn mountain out of a mole hill, like a bunch of 4th graders. Just use common sense. It seem like everything here turns into a pissin contest. Almost every oil you will find on the shelf will get the job done in protecting your engine. The ones to need to pay attention to is the store branded oil at dollar stores. Some of that stuff is not api rated.

 

[noahkenny]

Rule of thumb.. When in doubt.. read the instructions and educate yourself. Go with what the manufacturer says. If they give you different weight oils based on outdoor temp ranges just go with the one they recommend for your range and you wont go wrong.

 

[exbass94]

The only ones you need to pay attention to is the store branded oil at dollar stores. Some of that stuff is not api rated.

Lol non-detergent isn't API rated either...

And I don't believe for a second Briggs is recommending non-detergent. They now recommend 5w-30 synthetic for all their engines.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Lol non-detergent isn't API rated either...

And I don't believe for a second Briggs is recommending non-detergent. They now recommend 5w-30 synthetic for all their engines.

Deere mowers use Briggs and as far as I have seen still call for the old 10-30 Turf-Gard which makes no mention if it is synthetic, synthetic blend or made out of old french fry grease. I checked a 2011 model for kicks, still calls for Turf-Gard. Very good oil for a mower BTW.

 

[exbass94]

This is what Briggs has to say about oil in their engines:
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines/push-mower/maintenance-repair/How%20to%20Change%20Oil/
Scroll down to the bottom of the page. They basically say 5w-30 synthetic is best, but other grades can be used. They make no mention of non-detergent, and all of the Briggs-brand oil they sell is API rated SJ or higher (which has detergents in it)

 

[press 1 for english]

Oil doesnt break down, it gets contaminated. Just ask the guys running OTR trucks with bypass filters that can go almost 500K miles without changing the oil. Granted they change the filter, top off the oil, and send a sample out for analysis on a regular basis.

A oils viscosity WILL break down over time! Of course long after 10,000 miles. The additives in the oil clean the acids out and certainly are recharged in recycled oil. Nothing wrong with recycled oil. You drink fruit juice and soft drinks in recycled plastic bottles.
As far as semis go their oil systems hold dozens of qts of oil so they go long mileages before changing.