PetesPonies
Well-Known Member
I used an inverted fuel pump for a van that I got at Autozone.
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v8 swap in a 1984 bronco II
- Thread starter 88ranger2.3
- Start date
88ranger2.3
Well-Known Member
I used an inverted fuel pump for a van that I got at Autozone.
I actually have that same pump sitting on the tool cart and decided I wanted the serpentine setup more then I wanted to have an easy to fit fuel pump. Just a trade off of ease of installation and things I want on this bronco.
I set out with a few small goals just for the engine swap.
1. Serpentine accessory drive
2. Mechanical fuel pump
3. Stock Drive shafts
I am hoping that once I get the water pump there is a chance to make the stock radiator fit, but it is going to be a TIGHT fit. I am thinking the a/c condenser is going to get moved to the front of the radiator support and run the aftermarket radiator, and I will then have to buy some kind of transmission cooler.
Plus I am doing this on a pretty small budget. So it seems to be turning into more about what I have, or can trade for then what would be perfect to use.
Eventually the set of D44 trussed TTB beams and Swap brackets will find a home on the bronco, but that is probably next summer or early next year at the earliest. I want to finish this stage (with or without a/c) and drive it for awhile.
skx762
Active Member
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...2?filterByKeyWord=fuel+pump&fromString=search
71 ford E100 with a 302. this is buried somewhere in the swap info and I saved it on my Autozone favorites.
71 ford E100 with a 302. this is buried somewhere in the swap info and I saved it on my Autozone favorites.
88ranger2.3
Well-Known Member
On a side note I got a Gen 2 console and some explorer EB leather seats so the interior is ready to go and I may or may not swap out the tilt column out of my Tan B2 into this one.
88ranger2.3
Well-Known Member
The fuel pump I am trying out is a Napa Part Number M60318
Which is a carter 60318 fuel pump. It is for a 1980-1983 Ford F100 truck. It appears that it is going to work, but it will be a wait and see type of deal. It looks good right now, but when the motor starts up all the looks and thoughts may go out the window and the fuel pump smashes against the steering box... But, I hope not.
I am also returning the Torino pump today as it was a no go and returning the serpentine belt I got yesterday as I am pretty sure it is still about an inch and a half to long for deleting the Smog pump. I am thinking somewhere around 87.5 to 88.5 should put me real close into the tensioner range, but it is all educational until the water pump arrives (hopefully it will be in today and I can get it installed tonight). That way when the power steering bracket comes off I can get a few better pictures of the area removed from the bracket and also keep moving forward.
A couple of shots I snapped of the bracket and fuel pump living happily together in the same location. It is pretty hard to get a picture of that particular area though... Plus you can see the pressure sending unit arrangement I am settling on.
Which is a carter 60318 fuel pump. It is for a 1980-1983 Ford F100 truck. It appears that it is going to work, but it will be a wait and see type of deal. It looks good right now, but when the motor starts up all the looks and thoughts may go out the window and the fuel pump smashes against the steering box... But, I hope not.
I am also returning the Torino pump today as it was a no go and returning the serpentine belt I got yesterday as I am pretty sure it is still about an inch and a half to long for deleting the Smog pump. I am thinking somewhere around 87.5 to 88.5 should put me real close into the tensioner range, but it is all educational until the water pump arrives (hopefully it will be in today and I can get it installed tonight). That way when the power steering bracket comes off I can get a few better pictures of the area removed from the bracket and also keep moving forward.
A couple of shots I snapped of the bracket and fuel pump living happily together in the same location. It is pretty hard to get a picture of that particular area though... Plus you can see the pressure sending unit arrangement I am settling on.
88ranger2.3
Well-Known Member
I used an inverted fuel pump for a van that I got at Autozone.
What motor mounts are those? Just curious.
Looks like your making progress on your swap, but a few things to think about. Mainly with using your stock radiator. You are probably going to run into overheating issues, remember the stock unit was not designed to cool a V-8. It may work for you, but don't be surprised if it doesn't. I have a James Duff that tucks up into the stock supports and have a few inces of clearance from the fan(i run a mechanical fan, no srp, with a short neck water pump. May not be possible with your set-up though). I think you said you had a Be-Cool, try it for fit.
Headers. if you have the Headmans, see if they will fit. Im using (Im sure they are the 89500's) on a 4x4 84 Ranger, with no issues( Im using a C-6 for a transmission also). The passenger side is tight, but not tight enough to cause clearance issues (I did grind the lip off of the crossmsmber to be safe). If you want some pics I can get some for you.
I had problems with the Edelbrock series of carbs (even their so called "Off-Road" version) when wheeling. They have a common fuel trough on the back of the carb feeding both bowls, and when off camber it would starve one side and flood the other. I was told to put a piece of fuel tubing in there to combat the problem, but I never had any luck. I run an old Q-Jet now (looking for a good stand alone FI set up for it).
I understand the budget constraints, I did mine the first time the same way, but a few extra steps now may save you some hair pulling, blood, and keep your blood pressure down later.
Keep us updated on your progress.
Headers. if you have the Headmans, see if they will fit. Im using (Im sure they are the 89500's) on a 4x4 84 Ranger, with no issues( Im using a C-6 for a transmission also). The passenger side is tight, but not tight enough to cause clearance issues (I did grind the lip off of the crossmsmber to be safe). If you want some pics I can get some for you.
I had problems with the Edelbrock series of carbs (even their so called "Off-Road" version) when wheeling. They have a common fuel trough on the back of the carb feeding both bowls, and when off camber it would starve one side and flood the other. I was told to put a piece of fuel tubing in there to combat the problem, but I never had any luck. I run an old Q-Jet now (looking for a good stand alone FI set up for it).
I understand the budget constraints, I did mine the first time the same way, but a few extra steps now may save you some hair pulling, blood, and keep your blood pressure down later.
Keep us updated on your progress.
88ranger2.3
Well-Known Member
Looks like your making progress on your swap, but a few things to think about. Mainly with using your stock radiator. You are probably going to run into overheating issues, remember the stock unit was not designed to cool a V-8. It may work for you, but don't be surprised if it doesn't. I have a James Duff that tucks up into the stock supports and have a few inces of clearance from the fan(i run a mechanical fan, no srp, with a short neck water pump. May not be possible with your set-up though). I think you said you had a Be-Cool, try it for fit.
Headers. if you have the Headmans, see if they will fit. Im using (Im sure they are the 89500's) on a 4x4 84 Ranger, with no issues( Im using a C-6 for a transmission also). The passenger side is tight, but not tight enough to cause clearance issues (I did grind the lip off of the crossmsmber to be safe). If you want some pics I can get some for you.
I had problems with the Edelbrock series of carbs (even their so called "Off-Road" version) when wheeling. They have a common fuel trough on the back of the carb feeding both bowls, and when off camber it would starve one side and flood the other. I was told to put a piece of fuel tubing in there to combat the problem, but I never had any luck. I run an old Q-Jet now (looking for a good stand alone FI set up for it).
I understand the budget constraints, I did mine the first time the same way, but a few extra steps now may save you some hair pulling, blood, and keep your blood pressure down later.
Keep us updated on your progress.
Would love pictures of the 89500's on a 4x4 and how the exhaust hooks up to them if possible. I am planning on a FSD44 ttb swap next spring/summer (have the trussed beams and brackets already), and not sure how headers would be effected by that right now as it appeared the one side pretty well dumped directly into one of the axle beams.
The stock radiator is a brass unit with quite a lot of cooling area. I understand it wasn't designed for a v8, but it isn't much different in size then compared to the 60's mustangs. I do already have a "Be Cool" brand swap radiator and it is currently sitting in the radiator area on the bronco even in some of the pictures. I just am thinking right now coming into winter, I don't have a stand alone tranny cooler and it is pretty expensive to get one of those and with funds low I was going to get by with the original if I can till next spring. It is just a money issue at the moment.
The carb that is on the motor is what came with the mustang. I am not sold on keeping it, but until it gives me issues I am sticking with it. I do have a gas mixer and most of the parts for a conversion to propane, or may sell them and pick up a different carb, but that is still awhile out.
Heres a couple of pics
Passenger side
It is pretty much a straight run back to the muffler(short pack) both sides exit on the pass. side in front of the axle. You can kind of see it here
Dont really have any pics of the driver side. The header lets out pointing more towards the back of the engine (at an angle). My exhaust drops down and crosses over to the pass. side and then back. The passenger side dumps straight down then 90's and then back.
Passenger side
It is pretty much a straight run back to the muffler(short pack) both sides exit on the pass. side in front of the axle. You can kind of see it here
Dont really have any pics of the driver side. The header lets out pointing more towards the back of the engine (at an angle). My exhaust drops down and crosses over to the pass. side and then back. The passenger side dumps straight down then 90's and then back.
PetesPonies
Well-Known Member
The engine mounts on my engine are Mustang mounts.
As for my engine install . well I wanted v-belts for the vintage look. Did not want serpentine. It is much easier with serpentine IMO. The v-belt and AC with PS and the inverted fuel pump is a bear to work out. Lots of hours scratching my head and finally got it to work, at least as far as the bolt on goes.
As for my engine install . well I wanted v-belts for the vintage look. Did not want serpentine. It is much easier with serpentine IMO. The v-belt and AC with PS and the inverted fuel pump is a bear to work out. Lots of hours scratching my head and finally got it to work, at least as far as the bolt on goes.
88ranger2.3
Well-Known Member
motor mount plates.
Here are the motor mounts, well templates I made from them. I got a chance to make copies of the mounts before I installed them. Then I made a couple sets so I could do this again in the future.. Even have in .pdf format that should print up properly sized I think. Does anyone know where to upload a .pdf so I can share it on here?
I made a better full size scan (600 dpi)that I used to make the .pdf from...
Here is the 100 dpi scan.
At least for me these spaced the engine with a decent distance between firewall and then engine, the water pump and stock radiator, and allow using the stock drive shafts. Basically the transmission is in the stock location and the engine is bolted up to it. I also have a 3 inch body lift on mine. My bronco also is a 302, c5 with a stock output shaft and housing, and a 157 tooth bellhousing. Pretty sure that is everything that makes up the total length of the setup that would be important for anyone else to know.
The mounts are as shown made from 1/4 inch steel. I will have to check, but I believe the photo shows the drivers side on the left and the passenger is on the right. Hope these can help someone else as there was quite a bit of head scratching and measuring and trial fitting to get those.
Let me know if you want the pdf and if anyone knows where or can host it for me.
Here are the motor mounts, well templates I made from them. I got a chance to make copies of the mounts before I installed them. Then I made a couple sets so I could do this again in the future.. Even have in .pdf format that should print up properly sized I think. Does anyone know where to upload a .pdf so I can share it on here?
I made a better full size scan (600 dpi)that I used to make the .pdf from...
Here is the 100 dpi scan.
At least for me these spaced the engine with a decent distance between firewall and then engine, the water pump and stock radiator, and allow using the stock drive shafts. Basically the transmission is in the stock location and the engine is bolted up to it. I also have a 3 inch body lift on mine. My bronco also is a 302, c5 with a stock output shaft and housing, and a 157 tooth bellhousing. Pretty sure that is everything that makes up the total length of the setup that would be important for anyone else to know.
The mounts are as shown made from 1/4 inch steel. I will have to check, but I believe the photo shows the drivers side on the left and the passenger is on the right. Hope these can help someone else as there was quite a bit of head scratching and measuring and trial fitting to get those.
Let me know if you want the pdf and if anyone knows where or can host it for me.
Last edited:
88ranger2.3
Well-Known Member
Power Steering Bracket Modifications
I did get a chance to get some better pictures of the power steering bracket while I had it off to install the water pump. I also found out that apparently the depth of the bolt hole is different between the F150's 302 block and my 302 block in at least one spot as I am having to shorten the bolt that goes through the water pump and supports the power steering pump as well about 1 inch.
You can get a pretty good idea of the amount of material that had to be removed if you are trying to do this as well by comparing the photo to your unmodified bracket. But those are the modifications in order to run the fuel pump I am and for the fuel line routing I am going for.
I did get a chance to get some better pictures of the power steering bracket while I had it off to install the water pump. I also found out that apparently the depth of the bolt hole is different between the F150's 302 block and my 302 block in at least one spot as I am having to shorten the bolt that goes through the water pump and supports the power steering pump as well about 1 inch.
You can get a pretty good idea of the amount of material that had to be removed if you are trying to do this as well by comparing the photo to your unmodified bracket. But those are the modifications in order to run the fuel pump I am and for the fuel line routing I am going for.
88ranger2.3
Well-Known Member
I did also get the water pump installed last night and most of the hoses figured out. I did get a chance to test fit the stock radiator but didn't get a photo of that.
88ranger2.3
Well-Known Member
also is this in the right spot or does it need to be moved to a different place?
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Do you still need headers? I believe I still have the stock Expo ones of my swap. I will have to make a call to find out though.
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