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Utah peeps!!!


Clutch issue, is this on the Chevy drivetrain in your bronco?
 
yeah, i put a new clutch from o'reilly in it and it will not fully disengage. what pisses me off is that it didn't even need a clutch, it was only a year old, i just replaced it because i already had the tranny out to fix a throw-out bearing
 
I had an 88 blazer with a 350, had the same issue. The clutch fork pivot ball was worn almost flat, essentially moving the fork 'back' about 1/8 of an inch. This took travel away from the slave end of the fork and from the throw out end. You can pull the fork without pulling the tranny, cant you? I would check out the pivot ball. The fork shouldn't be coming anywhere near the belhousing...which makes me think the fork is too far 'back', so the slave cant push it far enough to pivot the other end far enough...

It should be threaded into the tranny..you could try backing it out a few threads, to give the fork more travel on both ends.

I've also had a clutch fork bend under load, and not allow the clutch to fully disengage, but this was on a ford...

The other thing it could be is air in the system...but it sounds like you've got it pretty well bled.
 
I had an 88 blazer with a 350, had the same issue. The clutch fork pivot ball was worn almost flat, essentially moving the fork 'back' about 1/8 of an inch. This took travel away from the slave end of the fork and from the throw out end.

yeah worn pivot ball was one of the things the shop suggested, it looked good to me when i had it all apart but he'll check it. i told the shop to just go ahead and do it, i'll sh-t out the money somehow

The fork shouldn't be coming anywhere near the belhousing...which makes me think the fork is too far 'back', so the slave cant push it far enough to pivot the other end far enough...

It should be threaded into the tranny..you could try backing it out a few threads, to give the fork more travel on both ends.
The other thing it could be is air in the system...but it sounds like you've got it pretty well bled.

and yeah the fork normally never extends so far that it is only 1-2MM from hitting the bellhousing which leads me to believe since the slave is actually pushing the fork too far that it is bled just fine.

if it's not the ball it could be the new (aftermarket) fork was built slightly of of geometry, or flywheel finally been resurfaced too far. i guess it only takes 1/16" of an inch on any one of those parts to throw the geometry off (like your pivot ball experience)
damn my desire to have new parts instead of old on my truck any time i can :bawling:

You can pull the fork without pulling the tranny, cant you?

i could be wrong but i don't think so:icon_confused: it needs to slide more than an inch toward the input shaft to get off the ball. with the t/o bearing on the shaft there is no way that the fork can move that far (i don't even think you could if you got the t/o bearing off the fork). the shaft needs to be out of the way for the fork to be removed (usually with the bellhousing un bolted from the trans)
 
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You know what it is?
It,s the chevy gods. They are mad because you put a ford body on one of their frames. Wish I could be more help.
 
You know what it is?
It,s the chevy gods. They are mad because you put a ford body on one of their frames. Wish I could be more help.

well we will know soon enough when the shop calls me and says "hey Robb it was........................"
 
i just got the call, the ball was not excessively worn but it was fairly worn, nor was the flywheel excessively machined but it was getting close. and the aftermarket clutch fork was slightly different in the way it was manufactured from the one i pulled out. (.010" he said)

no one of those things would have been enough to cause my problem. but added together was what it took. a slightly taller pivot ball was all it took to solve it all 350 f-ing dollars later
 
At least it's fixed now. :icon_thumby:
 
i just got the call, the ball was not excessively worn but it was fairly worn, nor was the flywheel excessively machined but it was getting close. and the aftermarket clutch fork was slightly different in the way it was manufactured from the one i pulled out. (.010" he said)

no one of those things would have been enough to cause my problem. but added together was what it took. a slightly taller pivot ball was all it took to solve it all 350 f-ing dollars later

Who wound up fixing it for you? Transmasters? That's who did my M5OD, and they did a decent job. That was before I knew my friend who owns a trans shop though.
 
yeah transmaster did it, i had him do it because he said "for a 1hr diag i will tell you what's wrong or i won't charge you" and he stuck to his word despite spending what i would wager to be a lot longer than an hour on it. he couldn't because he needed to pull the trans and mike out everything so he then said "no charge, but for $350 i promise i'll fix it, or no charge....." after all my dicking with it $350 seemed worth it. and its fixed now but i can't go get it until tomorrow when i get paid
 
uhhh

So I'm trying to find a vw bug that I can get for close to nothing or some tradeing? Any one have any ideas? I really just need a shell no motor ar trans ???
 
no idea man, what do you need it for?
 
Well I'm gonna put togeather a baja bug ofcorse. I have a bunch of parts I pulled off of one at pick n pull in vegas last year. I will use it as my dd so I can realy start building my ranger. Its hard to build I and drive it at the same time.
 
yeah transmaster did it, i had him do it because he said "for a 1hr diag i will tell you what's wrong or i won't charge you" and he stuck to his word despite spending what i would wager to be a lot longer than an hour on it. he couldn't because he needed to pull the trans and mike out everything so he then said "no charge, but for $350 i promise i'll fix it, or no charge....." after all my dicking with it $350 seemed worth it. and its fixed now but i can't go get it until tomorrow when i get paid

I've faced dilemma's like this in the past. Sometimes you have to throw in the towel. It's good to hear your rig will be on the prowl again!
 
i just got the call, the ball was not excessively worn but it was fairly worn, nor was the flywheel excessively machined but it was getting close. and the aftermarket clutch fork was slightly different in the way it was manufactured from the one i pulled out. (.010" he said)

no one of those things would have been enough to cause my problem. but added together was what it took. a slightly taller pivot ball was all it took to solve it all 350 f-ing dollars later

$350 is not that bad for a clutch fix. It is also better then getting on the ground and freezing your digits and other parts off.:shok: Sometimes it is worth the money to not even worry about it.
 

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