Using mismatched drop bracket holes?

[USCGC130]

I have a question, I dropped my truck off for an alignment after adding a lift kit, skyjacker drop brackets with 6” coils and 1” washer spacers, the driver side tire is good but the shop can’t get the passenger side in say that it’s 1” out and recommend that I put the arm in the driver side bracket in the bottom hole and leave the passenger side arm in the upper hole. Anyone ever done this or know if it’s okay? They said they don’t see anything wrong with doing that after looking it over.

I also may just remove those spacers now but am worried ill regret it if those springs sag at all because I only have 1/4-1/2 inch rake as it sits with them, especially since I have a 4.0 and extended cab

 

[USCGC130]

Also to add these guys seemed to be pretty familiar with TTB when I called so I do think they know what they are doing and I can see that the passenger tire leans way out so I though it would be a major adjustment

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I can't think of any reason why not. If it makes it so the camber is within specs I'd go for it.
@4x4junkie

 

[Curious Hound]

I’m running 2 different size spacers under my coils. But moving the arm should work also.

 

[Dirtman]

The drivers side is always much heavier than the passengers side (Its got the battery, gas tank, and your fat ass on it). As long as the end result is a good alignment I see no issue with using two different bolt holes.

 

[USCGC130]

Thank you all, You guys always come to the rescue, the TTB is so unique and different that it is awesome having this forum for the wise gurus to help out and share your knowledge.

I guess this weekend it’ll go back on jacks and I’ll try to get that moved and I’ll mess with the spacers down the road if I need too

My 33s will be here tomorrow so I’ll get them on before the next attempt at realigning

 

[Bgunner]

Be sure to level it before going for an alignment. These TTB/TIB suspension change the alignment depending on ride height. Addition or subtraction of spacer height my be required to get both sides to the same height. If you adjust the height after the alignment shop is done then it will throw off the job you just paid for.

 

[USCGC130]

Be sure to level it before going for an alignment. These TTB/TIB suspension change the alignment depending on ride height. Addition or subtraction of spacer height my be required to get both sides to the same height. If you adjust the height after the alignment shop is done then it will throw off the job you just paid for.

Good advice! Thanks I’ll be sure to do all that again, I know I’ll still have a little lean in the rear but I guess I’ll try to level out the front at least

 

[Shran]

I had to put three 1/4" spacers under my driver's side coil in my Explorer to correct the sagging body on that side. Personally, I'd rather add or subtract spacers under the coils rather than use different holes on the drop brackets, but that's just me.

 

[USCGC130]

So here is the diver side vs the passenger and as you can see the passenger is way out, the guy who tried to align it doesnt think removing spacers will be enough, but he also said hes never seen a truck need one axle beam in the top and the other in the bottom, he doesnt think it will hurt anything but suggested that maybe just put them both in the bottom hgole, the driver side is about perfect so i think ill just try moving the pssenger beam to the bottom hole. Although it does seem curious having to do this since i havent heard of anyone else having to do this.

 

[Dirtman]

Your wheels is crooked...

 

[Curious Hound]

Your wheels is crooked...

You make me guffaw boisterously.

 

[Shran]

To me it looks like the drivers side is a degree or two negative and the passenger side is positive by a bit more. I'd try subtracting spacers from the passenger side and adding to the drivers side. That and/or camber bushings should fix that right up.

 

[Bgunner]

A silly question but the camber adjusters, are they the factory ones or have they been replace with the fully adjustable ones?

Mine had the factory ones and there is a lock tab that prevents them from being adjusted far enough to compensate for my saggy front springs. Adding in the the fully adjustable ones cured my issues. If yours has the lock tabs then the fully adjustable ones will fix the issue at a fairly cheap price and allow the use of the same holes in the drop bracket and every thing will be hunky dory and proper.


EDIT: here are the two camber adjusters. I can't seem to find a pic of the factory ones but the second pic illustrates a lock that will prevent it from turning. The factory ones have this lock made into the camber adjuster so it fits into the squish point preventing it from turning to far.

 

[USCGC130]

A silly question but the camber adjusters, are they the factory ones or have they been replace with the fully adjustable ones?

Mine had the factory ones and there is a lock tab that prevents them from being adjusted far enough to compensate for my saggy front springs. Adding in the the fully adjustable ones cured my issues. If yours has the lock tabs then the fully adjustable ones will fix the issue at a fairly cheap price and allow the use of the same holes in the drop bracket and every thing will be hunky dory and proper.

I am guessing they are stock but I brought in the 2 piece moog bushings with me but they didn’t think it would be enough to correct it, also they said the ones that are in there were already pretty aggressive. Maybe I’ll pull the wheel off and see what I can do myself, i really didn’t feel like messing with it lol, i just wanted to drop it off and have it done.