Upper control arms

[backroad101]

It was kinda warm (warmer) yesterday so I took a quick look at the upper control arm setup. Am I wrong in saying it is as simple as removing 3 bolts and the shock to get the upper control arm out? With what shops want to charge my head is telling me there should be more to it but it does not look like it. I haven't looked at the bottoms yet. Any tricks there other than maybe getting a ball joint tool from Autozone?

Also, on the hub bearings. Are they a matter of just being repacked on these truck or replaced as an assembly.

 

[Yellowsplash]

Dont have to touch the shock....take tire off, remove balljoint pinch bolt, beat upper control arm and balljoint stud up out of the knuckle, unbolt control arm bolts and install new one.

The lower is much easier to remove with the upper control arm disconnected. Remove tie rod and axle nut, push cv axleshaft back through hub (kinda tricky) and out of the way, this will allow you to gain access to the balljoint nut to remove knuckle. Press the balljoint out with a tool from advance auto/auto zone and reinstall new one and reinstall the reverse of removal.

The wheelbearing/hub assembly is nonserviceable and is replaced as a unit.

 

[srteach]

On a 1999, it depends on the side, but yes, it is that simple. The shock doesn't get unbolted. Some after market upper arms have replaceable ball joints. An alignment is needed after the work.

 

[backroad101]

I have looked on this board and the tech library and haven't really found an answer to my question. I think I know the answer but not positive.

Bad ball joints will cause any sort of alignment issue to where I may get excessive tire noise? Truck drives straight btw.

This ball joint thing started when I failed a safety inspection with the shop telling me both of my upper ball joints and one lower had "excessive play". It is a shop I went to because it was close and not one I go to on a regular basis.

Just want to be sure I am spending money on the correct issue as I am going to tackle it this weekend.

Also, any bad experieinces with MasterPro (OReilly's) or Dorman (Advance Auto) parts?

 

[Yellowsplash]

You can check for the play yourself by jacking up the vehicle and moving the tire back and forth. Sometimes its easier to have someone else do it while you climb under to see where the play is at.

Dont mess with the dormans....theyre not bad, but theres better for the money. Apparently the parts man doesnt know his way around the advance lookup system. They lists balljoints in about 4 different places in the system.

Write these down and tell the parts man these are what you want...

Driver's Upper - Part No. K8708T
Pass Upper - Moog #K8710T (2 piece design)

Lowers
Moog #K8695T

 

[backroad101]

So I have 1 no on the Dormans. What about the MasterPros from Oreilly's? I know Moog is the prefered brand but am looking for a more cost effective solution.

This truck is a second vehicle used for winter/ bad weather, light hauling, camping, runs to Home Depot, tailgaiting, dog transport, etc. I prob also will not be modifying anything (lifts etc) regarding the suspension in the future

 

[Yellowsplash]

Then get the TRW brand....Just remember, you get what you pay for. You want a $20 balljoint, you get a $20 balljoint that you'll be replacing next year. Atleast when you spend the money on a better one, you'll have a lifetime warranty to replace it when they finally do go bad...

 

[backroad101]

Not sure where the TRW brand is sold. Haven't heard of or mentioned those.

Will prob go with the Master Pros from OReilly's which have a lifetime warranty.

 

[Yellowsplash]

Theyre made by the same people who make moog...sold at advance as well.

 

[triumphrider-1]

Another no vote for Dorman, not bad but there is a lot better out there.

Personally, I would put MOOG pieces on.