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Upper A-arm Problem


sin261

Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2009
Messages
8
Vehicle Year
2002
Transmission
Manual
Hello everyone. Im new here and have a question.

First off im Chris.
2001 ford ranger ext. cab
2wd
3.0 flex fuel V-6
Automatic
33x12.5xR15


Right now it has the Fabtech 5.5 system up front with procomp shocks, 2" wheel spacers and about 1'' off set rims.

I bought the truck less then a month ago just the way described. I'm having a problem. The upper A-arm ball joint pocket, and the spindle are rubbing on the frame(outer coil bucket). I thought it may have been caused by the fact that the Fabtech Springs are EXTREMELY stiff and are keeping it at full drop. I bought the Camburg SRS race springs for their 5.5 system, switched them out, but the problem still presists.

I found out while switching springs that the shocks are BLOWN. They dont rebound at all and i can collapse them by hand. Could this be my problem? I also found that the upper ball joints are different. I think the lenght is the same. Just dirrerent brands or styles?

Is the fabtech kit just this way? I've heard its junk. What else can i try to fix this problem? Sitting at full drop out sucks :bawling:

Any help is appreciated! If you need to know anything else just let me know.


P.S- The front sway bar is removed.
 
Maybe the springs aren't fully seated in the upper spring cup? I just put 2" springs on my 04 and when its on the ground there is at least an inch of space between the coil bucket and my upper ball joints. I'm on stock UCAs too. I thought the fabtech UCAs were longer so they clear the coil bucket...? Hmmm.

Can you post up some pics so we get a better idea of whats going on?

And how is your camber?
 
Maybe the springs aren't fully seated in the upper spring cup? I just put 2" springs on my 04 and when its on the ground there is at least an inch of space between the coil bucket and my upper ball joints. I'm on stock UCAs too. I thought the fabtech UCAs were longer so they clear the coil bucket...? Hmmm.

Can you post up some pics so we get a better idea of whats going on?

And how is your camber?

I thought it may be a seating issue so i checked that all out and they are fine. The camber is HORRIBLE. My driver side between the coil bucket and ball joint has about an inch of clearance but the passenger side rests on the coil bucket. My passenger side camber is so bad that 2 inches of the 33x12.5's dont even touch pavement.

I heard elsewhere that it takes time for the springs to "break in" How many miles would you say that takes.

Im gonna try and get some pictures up today or tomorrow.

Could it be the cam bolts for the lower control arms pushing the lower arm out way to far?
 
I thought it may be a seating issue so i checked that all out and they are fine. The camber is HORRIBLE. My driver side between the coil bucket and ball joint has about an inch of clearance but the passenger side rests on the coil bucket. My passenger side camber is so bad that 2 inches of the 33x12.5's dont even touch pavement.

I heard elsewhere that it takes time for the springs to "break in" How many miles would you say that takes.

Im gonna try and get some pictures up today or tomorrow.

Could it be the cam bolts for the lower control arms pushing the lower arm out way to far?

it might be that if they tried to do it themselves and were stupid and turned the cams all the way in. but that still doesn't sound right. it sounds like the stock uppers with 2.5in coils and spindles
 
it takes different amounts of time to settle the springs depending on how hard you beat on them. if you take it out and mash on them, they'll break in faster than if you just do normal street driving.
 
You have some camber adjustment from the factory. If you look at the 4 bolts that hold your UCAs on there are little plates under the nuts that look like a square with 2 of the corners cut off. You can pull those and rotate them to adjust your camber. I just did this today and it fixed mine.

As for the ride height situation this sounds exactly like how mine was sitting after I put in the Springtech 2" lift springs. My driver side was low and the UCA was far away from the coil bucket but the pass. side was sitting higher and way to close to the coil bucket.

Here's what I did. Jack up your front end and pull the tires. Flip those plates around on the UCA bolts to bring your camber more positive. After you do that screw the nut back on but don't tighten it yet, just hand tight so it doesn't move. Then put your wheels back on and drop the truck and pull it foward/back a little so it settles down. Then while its on the ground tighten the UCA bolts back up.

I noticed that when I disconnected the UCA from the spindle the UCA was stuck down from the bolts being tightened when it was in the air which created a downward preload and acted as a torsion bar per say. My other side wasn't like this which is why it sat lower and felt softer. I immediately noticed a difference in ride quality and ride hieght after I did this. When you tighten the UCA bolts when it is on the ground it removes that "preload" from when they are tightened with the truck off the ground.

Give it a try and see if that works. I worked for me and fixed all my problems so I hope it does the same for you! And let me know if you have any questions about the camber plates and I'll try to get you some pics of what I'm talking about.

Robbie
 
it might be that if they tried to do it themselves and were stupid and turned the cams all the way in. but that still doesn't sound right. it sounds like the stock uppers with 2.5in coils and spindles

They are the fabtech uppers. That would have been a horrible situation :sad:



You have some camber adjustment from the factory. If you look at the 4 bolts that hold your UCAs on there are little plates under the nuts that look like a square with 2 of the corners cut off. You can pull those and rotate them to adjust your camber. I just did this today and it fixed mine.

As for the ride height situation this sounds exactly like how mine was sitting after I put in the Springtech 2" lift springs. My driver side was low and the UCA was far away from the coil bucket but the pass. side was sitting higher and way to close to the coil bucket.

Here's what I did. Jack up your front end and pull the tires. Flip those plates around on the UCA bolts to bring your camber more positive. After you do that screw the nut back on but don't tighten it yet, just hand tight so it doesn't move. Then put your wheels back on and drop the truck and pull it foward/back a little so it settles down. Then while its on the ground tighten the UCA bolts back up.

I noticed that when I disconnected the UCA from the spindle the UCA was stuck down from the bolts being tightened when it was in the air which created a downward preload and acted as a torsion bar per say. My other side wasn't like this which is why it sat lower and felt softer. I immediately noticed a difference in ride quality and ride hieght after I did this. When you tighten the UCA bolts when it is on the ground it removes that "preload" from when they are tightened with the truck off the ground.

Give it a try and see if that works. I worked for me and fixed all my problems so I hope it does the same for you! And let me know if you have any questions about the camber plates and I'll try to get you some pics of what I'm talking about.

Robbie

Thanks for all the tips. I'm going to try all this on saturday after work. I bought a new digital camera last night :yahoo: I'll take before, during and after pictures just incase anyone else gets into this predicament.

Thanks for all the tips guys i'll let you know how it goes
 
I have the exact same prob. the ext same truck the only diff. between you and I am only running the Upper a-arms and springs with 31"s about to jump to 33" after regear. Please let me know if this fixes it for you I have been to 3 diff alignment shops trying to get it fixed. Yet another reason I have yet to jump up to 33" hate so watch them die a quick death at the hands of my shitty aligment.
 

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