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Updating the 2.8L Tech Page - Suggestions Needed


just an idea from a new member...

How about a picture of the engine under the hood? I got my ranger last week, and I'm pretty sure there some things missing here and there. A picture for reference would help.

Gotta love that valve seal writeup, I'll let you know how it works out!
 
After dealing with CA smog issues, I would have liked to have tuning tips for the stock carb and a clear explanation of what parts are responsible for what. The vacuum electric relays on the passenger side fender, adjusting the Idle Speed Control Motor and what controls it, testing parts like the Mixture Control Solenoid, choke adjustment...

I was able to find or figure out most of my answers but it was time consuming. If you live in a state where a Dura spark isn't an option, it would be nice to make the most of the stock equipment.

Tim
 
How about a radio wiring diagram for a 83 ranger.:icon_confused: Thanks for all the work you do.:icon_thumby:
 
2150 carb spacer

I was at orileys today looking for a gastet for my carb the guy did not stock the one i was looking for but he looked up for a 302 and brought out a spacer that fit perfect to go between the manifold egr and the carb it plugs the area that used to be for the tps where there is a leak if you try to bolt a 2150 off a 302 it is a felpro 60529 replaces # EDA-9A-589A. It might be helpful to someone doing the duraspark conversion for a 83 or 84 2.8l replacing the feedback carb with a normal one its the same height as the stock spacer. Kim
 
I`ll second the TBI swap suggestions.
 
I agree with the "Dura-spark for dummies" idea lol I have a friend i went to high school with and he reads all the "how to" stuff but reading it and doing are two different things.

I've had to save his ass so many times :icon_surprised:

Pictures on step by stpe directions would help him loads!! :icon_thumby:
 
Old thread but for the duraspark page. Some of the items are not available anymore.

None of the advance auto p/n's are current except the distributor

The autozone coil "click here" doesn't work and you can buy the cap adapter there as someone else commented (part number is F976) . The p/n doesn't work for the carb at autozone either.

All the napa part numbers work.

The cap adapter from autozone is too big for the dist cap on the duraspark page.
 
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2.8 exploded diagram

I ask for this because I'm being told that the annoying squealing sound I'm experiencing is not due to recent trans rebuild (including new clutch unit, master and slave cylinders) but a bad thrust bearing or thrust washer. I've never heard of that, none of my acquaintances either.
Been searching for an in-depth diagram of the 2.8 V6 engine, no luck so far.
 
I ask for this because I'm being told that the annoying squealing sound I'm experiencing is not due to recent trans rebuild (including new clutch unit, master and slave cylinders) but a bad thrust bearing or thrust washer. I've never heard of that, none of my acquaintances either.
Been searching for an in-depth diagram of the 2.8 V6 engine, no luck so far.

When you put in the tranny did you replace the pilot bearing in the center of the flywheel where the input shaft of the tranny goes. I have seen both a bushing and a needle bearing there if you have the bushing did you put some grease on it when you installed the tranny. Does it only squeal when you have the clutch it that could very well be it or the T/O bearing. Push the clutch without disenguaging it if it squeals it is the throwout bearing. In gear with the clutch all the way in it is the pilot bushing/bearing. If it squeals In neutral with the clutch out it is probably the bearing for the input shaft in the tranny.
 
I thought same thing, that the throwout bearing was the cuplrit. So I changed it - no change, the noise is still there.
The removed throwout bearing looked and felt OK, but the Timken brand that replaced it was a much better built piece.
Pilot bearing was checked - grease still clean, bearings look and feel OK.
I even drained and checked the trans fliud, thinking there might be some metal debris - fluid, too was nice and clean !
The noise is present EXCEPT when clutch pedal is pushed. While cruising my neighborhood I push the pedal about an inch and the noise stops - I feel like I'm "riding the clutch", but at least the noise stops. While on open road I just "let it squeal".

I'm in Olympia, I figure it's about as far south as one can get in Puget Sound area, thus SouthPugetropolis !
 
The dizzy cap adapter on the duraspark page should be changer to p/n F960 instead of F976.

Sorry for the confusion.
 
an update on the water bushings..

When removing and reinstalling the front timing cover there's two water passage sleeves that have to be replaced sometimes. These are actually called "Bushing Water Inl. Cly Block" Ford part#D2RY6178.B These have been discontinued by Ford. There's only 10 dealers in the U.S.A. that have some. And that is only a total of 23 sleeves. They can be made out of steel if your really hand in the shop.

I just recvd a couple packages of these (2 boxes) of 4 each for a total of "8" @1.78 each. If you check for the part Number at

http://www.rearcounter.com/

you will find quite a few available ..NOS Ford...
 

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