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Brandon12

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
336
Age
35
City
Snohomish, WA
Vehicle Year
1988/91
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Manual
So I found a nice JVL 10" sub at a pawn shop that has the nice clean thud I was looking for in a nice ported box so I bought it for $100. I will post pics tomorrow. I also pulled my amp out and read the specs on it. To give you an idea of what im working with, it is a Power Logic 260 watt amp. It also says 45 Watts per channel, 125 Watts Bridged. So I assume this is a crappy amp since I cant find it anywhere on the net so should I upgrade my amp or is it pointless?

And if someone could explain to me what 45 Watts per channel, 125 Watts Bridged means that would be nice. :icon_thumby:
 
channel and bridged me you can run with 2,3,4 channels or "bridge" them and run one channel with all the power.

and yes you prolly need to up grade. you dont have the correct power to run it
 
you will need to upgrade, talk to someone at your local stereo shop and tell them the stats to your sub(4ohm, 2ohm, Dual 4ohms, Dual 2 ohms). They should tell you how much power, at how many ohms that it will take to make that sub bang. Another thing is, you might want to look into a sealed box, ported box's don't hit as hard and don't hit notes as clean.

Once the stereo shop tells you what you need to know go to one of the wholesale car audio distributors. They will sell you same quality equipment for a lot less then a car audio shop would charge to buy there stuff. Good Luck!

www.sonicelectronix.com (I bought all my subs/amp here, even when I blew one of the 10's up I brought it back and they said they wouldn't give me a free one because it was "blown" not covered by warranty. So I paid $25 bucks for a 2008 Model, while I was buying that one the guy told me to bring in my other sub and he would trade the 2006 for the 2008 for free. Legit.
 
you will need to upgrade, talk to someone at your local stereo shop and tell them the stats to your sub(4ohm, 2ohm, Dual 4ohms, Dual 2 ohms).

Since I bought it used,im not sure of the specs. Is there a part number or something on the back of the sub somewhere maybe or should I take it out and check?
 
yes if you take it out usually it will say the voice coil resistance or if it doesnt take a digital multimeter and check them, if it has 1 set of + & - terminals its single voice coil, if theres 2 its dual voice coil

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

when you figure it out just use the calculator in the link to figure out what you can wire your sub to (ohms) its usually cheaper to make power at lower ohms but not all amps are 1 ohm stable and very few are .5 stable, so do some research
 
$100. too much for that. its a $50-75 sub new. since you already have it, throw it in a ported box or sell it to someone else.
 
just realized you bought it with the box. get a cheapo 300watt rms amp from a local shop if you dont plan on upgrading.
 
i would get some thing in the 400w rms range at 4 ohms i run alpine amps but thats just me
 
i would get some thing in the 400w rms range at 4 ohms i run alpine amps but thats just me

im running alpine deck/amp too. the only reason i suggest a cheapo is the fact that he bought it used without knowing what it went through (i assume) and overpriced (unless he got a badass box) at a pawn shop. 400watt should work well and give you more power for a new sub when that thing craps out, they all do eventually.
 
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im running alpine deck/amp too. the only reason i suggest a cheapo is the fact that he bought it used without knowing what it went through (i assume) and overpriced (unless he got a badass box) at a pawn shop. 400watt should work well and give you more power for a new sub when that thing craps out, they all do eventually.

Yeah, Im not sure how well it was taken care of, but It doesnt have any scratches or anything and I wouldnt say its in a badass box, but it seems to be pretty well built and It is also in very nice condition.



Edit: How much of a difference does wire gauge make? I probably oughta switch it to 16 gauge huh? Thats what is running from the back of the speaker to the connectors.
 
doesnt matter how it looks, if the guy before you decided to run it with the gain at a weird level it might be broken mechanically. Never buy used drivers!!!!!! they're like futons you just dont know what the last guy did to them.
 
id go with a decent 2ch(class a/b)amp personally, they tend to sound better than mono(class d) but are less efficient but thats not that much of a current draw at 3-400w rms. a kicker kx or zx350.2 comes to mind or you could get a 1 ohm stable mono, you would just need 300-400w rms at either 1 or 4 ohms.

how much you planning on spending on an amp?
 

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